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Member Since: Sep 1, 2005
Last Visit: Nov 2, 2016
Contact Salamanizer

Point Rank: # 219
Total Points: 2,808
Last Year: 199
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Salamanizer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1243 | Routes 191 | Areas 26 | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 191 | Posts 105 | Stars 559 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Land of the Lost : El Crap
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: El Crap... Haha! I can think of a few places I've put routes up where that name would suit it just fine.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Mosquito Coast : Octopus' Gardens (5.10a/b)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: I don't remember who climbed it first. I talked to the guy once but I can't remember who it was. I aided the route back around 2004. Is my very (now) rare, flat aluminum head still in there about three quarters of the way up? I lead the thing free sometime around 2006 but don't remember it being that easy. That thing far off the right with the "butt cheeks" was hella harder, never did get that one free.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: There's a trail now? That must be nice!!! Was all rattle snakes and bushwhacking last time I was out there.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome : Crystal Wall Area : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: What are the routes for each number. I can figure most of them out but it would be nice if you named each one in this comment section.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome : Crystal Wall Area : Red Dawn (5.9 X)
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Honestly, I was only trying to get to the top. I placed bolts where I felt I needed one with zero regard for anyone who might want to do a repeat. It's a beautiful wall and I just wanted to climb it. I wasn't trying to make any sort of bold statement or anything. If you feel like it needs added bolts to be in character with other routes on the dome, then by all means add whatever you like. I'd rather that than take up a nice section of ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome : Crystal Wall Area : Red Dawn (5.9 X)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 29, 2016

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Comments: I put that route up in 2011 I think. I'll have to check. I did it ground up drilling at stances. It's no harder than 5.7 after the first bolt I thought. I took the route all the way to the summit. There is a big rarely visited cairn up there with some trinkets left from past climbers. I think I left a piton there.
I called it Red Dawn because we were up there hunting in the morning and the entire wall was red and orange. My silhouette against the rock wit... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall : Trout Fishing in America (5.11a)
By: Salamanizer When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Sure! The trick to starting the route is to wait until the water level has gone down a bit. Then it becomes painfully obvious.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Tom's Thumb : Hangnail (5.9+)
By: Salamanizer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: I liked this route, but it felt obviously harder than Thumb One through the crux. I'd hesitate to not call it 5.10 for a move or two. Felt a little bit contrived too, but overall a fun route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: No! But it's getting pretty toasty up there.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Mushroom Boulder
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: That's the "Mushroom boulder". It has a couple lines on it. There are other boulders in the area. Pretty grainy rock though.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: YES! That closure will probably never be lifted. If anything, expanded on a bit.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves : Mavericks : Mavericks (5.11c) : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: Those hangers are bomber, the bolts they were installed with are generally the weak points. That one still looks to be in decent shape. People tend to be afraid of them because of the mild surface rust and they look like Leepers.

That one looks like it's taken some whips!


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Auburn SRA : Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : ... : Kirk Arens Arête (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 24, 2016

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Comments: Aarons a solid dude, he's not going to get upset with someone else fixing a bolt on one of his routes, nor would anyone else I have ever met who puts routes up. Just have a clue of what you're doing or ask someone to help you who does. Sounds to me like the bolt just worked itself loose and needs to be re-tightened. You should have just left it in place and hand tightened it instead of totally removing the bolt. A hand tightened bolt is better than a missing one and can be "re-tightened" by anyo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Telesis (5.11b PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^^^
YIKES!!! That ones a doozy for sure.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Only the Young Die Brave (5.11c)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Those 5/16 buttonheads can be quite deceivingly bomber. I'll usually give them some light (funking) with an old sling and hammer. If they don't budge at all, they're probably good to go. If the bolt twists or pulls out a bit,(not the hanger spinning), then it probably needs to be replaced. What usually happens with those bolts is they crack in half near the center of the split shank and appear to be solid until you give them a good tug with a funkness and hammer. Then their strength becomes appa... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Fandango (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Dec 29, 2015

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Comments: I always thought Fandango had a pretty cool top out. That weirdly textured slab followed by the awkward corner thing to an excellent (although sandy) ledge to belay from. The corner has some grass, but nothing horrible.

The worst top out at the leap is on the North Face route. Miles of rotten low angle rock, sand and lichen capped with an almost impenetrable wall of bushes and no anchor. You just burrow your way down in the bushes and hold on.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Pigeon Cliff : Comrades (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: If Gargoyles is 5.12, then this route is easily 5.12b.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Pigeon Cliff : Camaraderie (5.11+ R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: The gear on this route is a little sketchy until about half way up. I'll admit I was quickly getting a little over my head on this one. I would not recommend trying to lead this route unless you're fairly confident free soloing 5.11 friction. I'm not 100% sure the micro nuts that protect the tough moves above the bush would hold a fall in this rock. Maybe I'm wrong, really didn't want to test it.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Unnamed (5.10a)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: They are 3/8" rivets far as I remember. It takes the hand of god to remove those things.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lover's Leap
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic new entry. Glad it's finally getting filled in with routes. Good job, I know it takes a lot of time to post a lot of info like this. Glad there are people like you who actually take the time to do it, and do a good job.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Na! I just saw that the route description for North Country was not for the actual line, but for a variation that skips the first two good pitches and lands you at the beginning of the third "money pitch". Which is the last good pitch on the route before you get into all that easy ledgy stuff.
I'm not saying the variation totally sucks, but it's not North Country anymore than walking around to climb only the second half of Travelers Buttress without starting at the bottom - is climbing the rout... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Auburn SRA : Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : ... : Obliteration Divine (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^

Sounds a little like someone got spanked. It's different and requires a diverse skillset, and the bolts are right where you need them, but not where you don't.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: The route described in this beta section is not North Country, it's a variation that skips the good climbing for easier but dirtier and less memorable climbing to avoid the mid 5.10 first pitch and short bulge on the second pitch. It does get you to the the "money" pitch all be it with much trouble, route finding and gardening, but in reality, you only actually climb one pitch on North Country.

North Country is a pretty direct line. You only traverse about 15 ft right at the top of pitch 1.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Mosquito Coast : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: I lead Separation Anxiety several years back per recommendation by Paul Crawford. I remember it being really hard but seemed like the gear was all there. Went back and took a look at it recently and felt like the gear was pretty sparse. Wouldn't lead it again, not that I could in my current state anyway.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 16 - The Owl : Owl Roof (5.12c) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: I tried it once. I got about that far and realized there was no way...ever!
And I had big ol cams.


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