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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact S. Neoh

Point Rank: # -none-
Total Points: 0

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has S. Neoh been climbing?










Contributions


All 1332 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 557 | Posts 433 | Stars 169 | Ratings 173
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : New Wave : Smokestack (5.9+)
By: S. Neoh When: 5 hours ago

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Comments: Ha-ha, I went sporto and laid back the finish. The route stays with you until you clip the anchors, for sure. Pump fest if you lay back the last bit. Too thrashy for me to chimney that part. Rumney is richer as a result of this route and its rating of .9+++.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Goldbug (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: 3 days ago

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Comments: While I am all for using a stiff quickdraw to get it into a bolt or fixed protection high above one's head, one should be aware that a "stiffie" might be dangerous to fall on once one is above the said draw. See Petzl note - petzl.com/I/en/Sport/Positioni...

The safe way out is to replace the stiffie with a regular draw before one is above the former. Being a short person I am acutely aware of high placeme... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I echo Nick's observation regarding "limp" quickie as of 06/26/2017. Route has gained popularity of late it seems.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Fish Corner (5.10b V-easy)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Did the climb today with the added low bolt. Stick clip was easily made with a shortish stick. Worthwhile route to do if you are in the neighborhood. Traffic will keep the middle section cleaner than today. Please climb this route :)


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Rise Against (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Wow, hiding in plain sight all this time. Thanks Lee.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : The Dingy (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Interesting video. I did the climb almost directly over or right of the bolt line, where it is (still) clean. No arete after the start move if I recall correctly. Some small but good crimps. Techy. Good movement.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Dead Sea Equestrian (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: First time on it today. Def dry enough. Way exceeded my expectations. Nice route (very Good). Pity it is almost always wet.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Nice colors! What a day. Glad you got out, Ming.
This climb is one of my favorites.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Vultures (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: See mountainproject.com/v/11065802... for how a relatively short person (wonderwoman is about 5'8") could place the gear protecting the start which is admittedly rather thin for .10+. I am 5'5" and when I lead the route 20 years ago (gasp!), I did something similar to protect the thin start. After it was sent in '73, I am sure the climb was rated 5.10+ G. Almost ridiculous by "mod... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: It has been a long while but that sounds about right, John. P2 was over quite quickly for me if memory serves.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Reading all the above makes me think I did not follow P2 as described at all. My friend Leo led P2. We used doubles that day. Leo had done the route before so he protected the second (me!) well after I had led up P1 for my first time ever on the route. I remember Leo only clipped protection with one rope so the second strand ran almost straight down from the belay after P2. I felt well protected when I did the traverse on P2 with some Beta from Leo. I believe I did it "the l... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Pulse Wall : Toy Story (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: The ground slopes a little away from the cliff so the top out is higher than first impression. For 5.9 trad at Rumney, I think Space Shuttle takes top spot, then maybe Yoda / Ryobi on gear instead of the bolts, ala Lee.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: I think I read somewhere (perhaps Ward's Guide) that P1 is generally taken as .11a. I would agree with that or .10d.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Ward and DQ.
You have restored one of my fave moderates by restoring the lower anchor.
After a few more runs, I now agree with Ward; .8+ to lower anchor, .9+ to the top.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Get a Grip (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Make that three who is wondering how the dihedral is not at least 5.10. We attempted the route under the watchful eye of DaveQ who later told us that the top can go as an almost arete climb rather than a dihedral. Not quite sure how that is done. Maybe that way makes it easier than staying in the dihedral.

V4/V4+ for the midway bouldery crux seems about right. I have no ape factor at 5'5".


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Tits Out for the Lads (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: LOL.
No disrespect to Tiff, Mark, you now have a name for your next new route at Green's. I still got to shake a full weekend free to make it out there. I've heard nothing but good things about the climbs.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Two parties claimed they climbed Dolt today. Nothing looked amiss on a walk-by.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Prudential : El Funko (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Did not see the big stick clip around for the first bolt.
Could really use new bolts at two spots. One other bolt is a new expansion.
Could use a good scrubbing all over. A bit licheny, otherwise a fine climb. Good feet were left wanting through the cruxy section.
Probably too "sparsely bolted" to become super popular.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Prudential : Unknown (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: This route deserves a name. Good climbing after the often-wet start. Very well protected with big fat glue-ins. Yeah, Lee, we guessed 5.7/5.8 for a grade too.
Funny, met Keith on our way out, forgot to ask for a name and grade.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Twelve Pack (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: I have done Dirty Dozen a number of times but never this route. Thanks for the tip about bring an extra cam/nut for the runout section. High on my Rumney to-do list this Fall.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Jammit Damnit (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: LOL, when we did the route some years ago on a hot summer's day, it felt hard for the grade. The path of least resistance thru the cracky face appeared to be to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Waited in line to repeat this after sole previous encounter 20 years ago. Glad I did. Three stars after initial insecure boulder problem start. Quite technical for the grade.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Red Sea Pedestrian (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Dry again today so I repeated it after exactly six years away. Interesting mid section with delightful, mellow finish. Still 2.5 starts from me but felt .10c.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Den; the extension increases difficulty at the expense of quality. Expect sharp, spiney holds and awkward climbing (easier if you are small like me) to gain the finishing ledge. Now 5.9+ and one fewer star compared to before, IMHO.
P.S. If you use a short draw on the newly added (and last Wave Bolt) bolt, you likely will not hit the ledge if you have an alert and solid belayer, should you blow the finishing sequence.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: We tried to lower the leader all the way to the ground after he linked both pitches to the top. Alas, was not able to make it with a 70 m rope; about 30 feet short. Pulling the rope after (with all the drag) was much harder than climbing the route itself!


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