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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: Nov 9, 2016
Contact S. Neoh

Point Rank: # 1,410
Total Points: 563
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has S. Neoh been climbing?










Contributions


All 1332 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 563 | Posts 429 | Stars 168 | Ratings 172
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Rise Against (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Wow, hiding in plain sight all this time. Thanks Lee.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : The Dingy (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Interesting video. I did the climb almost directly over or right of the bolt line, where it is (still) clean. No arete after the start move if I recall correctly. Some small but good crimps. Techy. Good movement.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Dead Sea Equestrian (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: First time on it today. Def dry enough. Way exceeded my expectations. Nice route (very Good). Pity it is almost always wet.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Nice colors! What a day. Glad you got out, Ming.
This climb is one of my favorites.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Vultures (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: See mountainproject.com/v/11065802... for how a relatively short person (wonderwoman is about 5'8") could place the gear protecting the start which is admittedly rather thin for .10+. I am 5'5" and when I lead the route 20 years ago (gasp!), I did something similar to protect the thin start. After it was sent in '73, I am sure the climb was rated 5.10+ G. Almost ridiculous by "mod... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: It has been a long while but that sounds about right, John. P2 was over quite quickly for me if memory serves.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Reading all the above makes me think I did not follow P2 as described at all. My friend Leo led P2. We used doubles that day. Leo had done the route before so he protected the second (me!) well after I had led up P1 for my first time ever on the route. I remember Leo only clipped protection with one rope so the second strand ran almost straight down from the belay after P2. I felt well protected when I did the traverse on P2 with some Beta from Leo. I believe I did it "the l... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Pulse Wall : Toy Story (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: The ground slopes a little away from the cliff so the top out is higher than first impression. For 5.9 trad at Rumney, I think Space Shuttle takes top spot, then maybe Yoda / Ryobi on gear instead of the bolts, ala Lee.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: I think I read somewhere (perhaps Ward's Guide) that P1 is generally taken as .11a. I would agree with that or .10d.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Ward and DQ.
You have restored one of my fave moderates by restoring the lower anchor.
After a few more runs, I now agree with Ward; .8+ to lower anchor, .9+ to the top.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Get a Grip (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Make that three who is wondering how the dihedral is not at least 5.10. We attempted the route under the watchful eye of DaveQ who later told us that the top can go as an almost arete climb rather than a dihedral. Not quite sure how that is done. Maybe that way makes it easier than staying in the dihedral.

V4/V4+ for the midway bouldery crux seems about right. I have no ape factor at 5'5".


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Tits Out for the Lads (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: LOL.
No disrespect to Tiff, Mark, you now have a name for your next new route at Green's. I still got to shake a full weekend free to make it out there. I've heard nothing but good things about the climbs.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Two parties claimed they climbed Dolt today. Nothing looked amiss on a walk-by.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : El Funko (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Did not see the big stick clip around for the first bolt.
Could really use new bolts at two spots. One other bolt is a new expansion.
Could use a good scrubbing all over. A bit licheny, otherwise a fine climb. Good feet were left wanting through the cruxy section.
Probably too "sparsely bolted" to become super popular.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : Unknown (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: This route deserves a name. Good climbing after the often-wet start. Very well protected with big fat glue-ins. Yeah, Lee, we guessed 5.7/5.8 for a grade too.
Funny, met Keith on our way out, forgot to ask for a name and grade.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Twelve Pack (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: I have done Dirty Dozen a number of times but never this route. Thanks for the tip about bring an extra cam/nut for the runout section. High on my Rumney to-do list this Fall.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Jammit Damnit (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: LOL, when we did the route some years ago on a hot summer's day, it felt hard for the grade. The path of least resistance thru the cracky face appeared to be to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Waited in line to repeat this after sole previous encounter 20 years ago. Glad I did. Three stars after initial insecure boulder problem start. Quite technical for the grade.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Red Sea Pedestrian (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Dry again today so I repeated it after exactly six years away. Interesting mid section with delightful, mellow finish. Still 2.5 starts from me but felt .10c.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Den; the extension increases difficulty at the expense of quality. Expect sharp, spiney holds and awkward climbing (easier if you are small like me) to gain the finishing ledge. Now 5.9+ and one fewer star compared to before, IMHO.
P.S. If you use a short draw on the newly added (and last Wave Bolt) bolt, you likely will not hit the ledge if you have an alert and solid belayer, should you blow the finishing sequence.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: We tried to lower the leader all the way to the ground after he linked both pitches to the top. Alas, was not able to make it with a 70 m rope; about 30 feet short. Pulling the rope after (with all the drag) was much harder than climbing the route itself!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Lies and Propaganda (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: No line when we walked by today so could not resist getting on it again after 15+ years not touching it. The polished start was the crux for me today. The climbing above was not as sharp as I remembered. The overhang near the end is fun but not as exciting as the original "go around the arête at about 2/3 height, and slab it up to the top" finish. That finish is no longer protected with fixed gear. BITD, the slab felt more insecure than the crimps down low. The first and second times I le... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Model Citizen (5.6)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Really enjoyable route. Many thanks to Chris and Team Tough. Oh yeah, they are back with a vengeance!
With rope stretch, and an untrimmed 70m rope, I was BARELY able to be lowered all the way to the ground from the second set of anchors after leading up the route. Both ends of the rope were knotted. If you want to do the same, you will want to knot your rope too as there was LESS THAN TWO FEET Of rope left after I touched down, even with rope stretch.
To minimize rope drag, consider back clea... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Toady Dreams (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: I climbed the route straight up between bolt #3 and #6 today. Found all the right holds. .10c right on the money IMHO.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Left El Diego (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Nick, after you clip the second bolt, feel left to find a HUGE jug just over the lip of the overhang. Step right foot high, reach to almost the back of the first ledge to find a nice incut for your right hand. Knee(s) not required. :)


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