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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 1357 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 562 | Posts 449 | Stars 171 | Ratings 175
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Fret not, Ward; I have to think more than 60% of folks who lead this route will find the low first bolt handy and reassuring as the climb is in the shade almost all the time and is prone to being damp or wet even on a sunny day. I clipped it!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage : Rippopotamus (5.9+)
By: S. Neoh When: 5 days ago

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Comments: IMHO, steepest .10 at Rumney. Maybe my short statue influenced my grading. I was surprised by the high crux during onsight attempt and fell off. Got serious and figured out the most efficient Beta including handjam, huge undercling sidepull deep in the dirty crack, and hip scum near the top. Still felt .10; harder than Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic and Masterpiece. For me, comparable in difficulty to Jugline.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage : Rippopotamus (5.9+) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Sorry I broke off the left edge of this feature today. I eventually found out that I could do the direct start and avoid this feature all together. I am 5'5" and < 130#.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage
By: S. Neoh When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Is the .10 immediately left of Cozened Stone finished? My partner and I did the route to the current anchor today.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Dolt (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I want to echo the comment about creaky and loose holds on this route. It is ironic that today this route has more suspect holds (hand and foot) than its neighbor, Jolt. Form the fourth bolt from the top to the anchors, there are 2 or 3 creaky hand holds which you can easily skip and 2 highly suspect foot holds. I think these might break off soon. I chose not to use either foot hold and after a long while, I finally found smaller but more solid feet to climb the now crux at around the third... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Elder Cleavage Direct (5.10b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This photo certainly brought back memories; P3 was my first Gunks .10 lead. I think it was rated .10- in the early 90's. Crux was relatively short with good gear just before the committing roof. At the top, I was feeling rather good about myself until my second, a very seasoned and hardcore traddie, upon arriving at the top belay, pointed out to me that I had neglected to protect the second through the angling roof moves! I was so thrilled to fire the roof that I practically sprinted to ... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : New Wave : Smokestack (5.9+)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 20, 2017

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Comments: Ha-ha, I went sporto and laid back the finish. The route stays with you until you clip the anchors, for sure. Pump fest if you lay back the last bit. Too thrashy for me to chimney that part. Rumney is richer as a result of this route and its rating of .9+++.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Goldbug (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: While I am all for using a stiff quickdraw to get it into a bolt or fixed protection high above one's head, one should be aware that a "stiffie" might be dangerous to fall on once one is above the said draw. See Petzl note - petzl.com/I/en/Sport/Positioni...

The safe way out is to replace the stiffie with a regular draw before one is above the former. Being a short person I am acutely aware of high placeme... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: I echo Nick's observation regarding "limp" quickie as of 06/26/2017. Route has gained popularity of late it seems.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Fish Corner (5.10b V-easy)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Did the climb today with the added low bolt. Stick clip was easily made with a shortish stick. Worthwhile route to do if you are in the neighborhood. Traffic will keep the middle section cleaner than today. Please climb this route :)


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Rise Against (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Wow, hiding in plain sight all this time. Thanks Lee.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : The Dingy (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Interesting video. I did the climb almost directly over or right of the bolt line, where it is (still) clean. No arete after the start move if I recall correctly. Some small but good crimps. Techy. Good movement.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Dead Sea Equestrian (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: First time on it today. Def dry enough. Way exceeded my expectations. Nice route (very Good). Pity it is almost always wet.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Nice colors! What a day. Glad you got out, Ming.
This climb is one of my favorites.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Vultures (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: See mountainproject.com/v/11065802... for how a relatively short person (wonderwoman is about 5'8") could place the gear protecting the start which is admittedly rather thin for .10+. I am 5'5" and when I lead the route 20 years ago (gasp!), I did something similar to protect the thin start. After it was sent in '73, I am sure the climb was rated 5.10+ G. Almost ridiculous by "mod... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: It has been a long while but that sounds about right, John. P2 was over quite quickly for me if memory serves.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Reading all the above makes me think I did not follow P2 as described at all. My friend Leo led P2. We used doubles that day. Leo had done the route before so he protected the second (me!) well after I had led up P1 for my first time ever on the route. I remember Leo only clipped protection with one rope so the second strand ran almost straight down from the belay after P2. I felt well protected when I did the traverse on P2 with some Beta from Leo. I believe I did it "the l... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Pulse Wall : Toy Story (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: The ground slopes a little away from the cliff so the top out is higher than first impression. For 5.9 trad at Rumney, I think Space Shuttle takes top spot, then maybe Yoda / Ryobi on gear instead of the bolts, ala Lee.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: I think I read somewhere (perhaps Ward's Guide) that P1 is generally taken as .11a. I would agree with that or .10d.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Ward and DQ.
You have restored one of my fave moderates by restoring the lower anchor.
After a few more runs, I now agree with Ward; .8+ to lower anchor, .9+ to the top.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Get a Grip (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Make that three who is wondering how the dihedral is not at least 5.10. We attempted the route under the watchful eye of DaveQ who later told us that the top can go as an almost arete climb rather than a dihedral. Not quite sure how that is done. Maybe that way makes it easier than staying in the dihedral.

V4/V4+ for the midway bouldery crux seems about right. I have no ape factor at 5'5".


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Tits Out for the Lads (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: LOL.
No disrespect to Tiff, Mark, you now have a name for your next new route at Green's. I still got to shake a full weekend free to make it out there. I've heard nothing but good things about the climbs.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Two parties claimed they climbed Dolt today. Nothing looked amiss on a walk-by.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Prudential : El Funko (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Did not see the big stick clip around for the first bolt.
Could really use new bolts at two spots. One other bolt is a new expansion.
Could use a good scrubbing all over. A bit licheny, otherwise a fine climb. Good feet were left wanting through the cruxy section.
Probably too "sparsely bolted" to become super popular.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Prudential : Unknown (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: This route deserves a name. Good climbing after the often-wet start. Very well protected with big fat glue-ins. Yeah, Lee, we guessed 5.7/5.8 for a grade too.
Funny, met Keith on our way out, forgot to ask for a name and grade.


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