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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has S. Neoh been climbing?










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All 1486 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 592 | Posts 495 | Stars 198 | Ratings 201
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: 2 days ago

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Comments: ^^^ After said match (which I have to do as well), I hop my right foot up to a good foothold then go to the next good hold with my right hand. Quite a bit of body tension required, however. Don't despair, many taller folks have trouble with this sequence too.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Indeed.

Just when I thought nothing can possibly add more to the Gong Show atmosphere so typical of the A&D Wall, a keg shows up to prove me wrong. :)

That said, as long as EVERYONE involve behaves responsibly and respectfully, it can be chalked up to a good laugh. I am sure "worse" have taken place, all over the globe, post FA moments and during those long, grinding route-cleaning sessions. Be safe out there!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Below the New Wave : Son of Sammy (5.8+)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: The gate spring on both LO quickies are non-functional. Time to switch over to ramhorns, I think, given how popular this climb is. We left a regular biner (with working gate of course) for those who wish to clip into in addition to the quickies.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Brown Palace (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 10, 2017

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Comments: The route goes into shade late August around 2pm. You have at least 5 hours of daylight then. Based on first hand experience, we would recommend an afternoon ascent of this if you are comfortable with the reasonable time constraint. What a pretty location.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Buried Treasure (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 10, 2017

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Comments: The crack is fun. Of it, I say "a crack even sport climbers will like/love to climb through" Good rock.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Buried Treasure (5.11b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 10, 2017

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Comments: Interesting. Our party of four (and we are all short) all thought the rock-over move on the overlap lower down is the crux. This move was all about finding one's balance on huge footholds with almost nothing for hands and standing up to get the good crimp (which looked like miles away from down low).


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Made In The Shade (5.9-)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: Our 70m rope got the leader up to the upper anchors and down to the ground with some length leftover. Of course, YMMV. Solid 2.5 star route. Do it.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : ... : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: Yup, I concur. We did P1 of PM on the Main Buttress as well a week ago. Nice slab route, super well-protected, and .10a in difficulty at most, not .11a which is the difficulty for P1 of DBB.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Again (5.10b/c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: We found the 3rd and 4th clips were stretchy and hard to make. Perhaps we were missing some key footholds.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Sir Edmond Drillary (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: Agree with above post! Def get a second to follow and clean the gear off this route. Real PITA to clean on lower. Not only that, if memory serves, rope abrasion is also an issue when down cleaning.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Buffalo Pit
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2017

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Comments: What is the current parking situation at BP? Conservatively, how many cars does the parking lot hold? Thanks!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Thanks to everyone who provided valuable sun/shade information, incl. Leo who PM'ed me. What we ended up doing was spending half of the day at Avalon, with a long lunch, and then climbed at Animation and to the right of it. As mentioned above, lots of great routes in this sector. Very enjoyable way to end our trip to CO, and we will be back :)
We also feel very grateful to those who had kept the hw up-to-date and safe. No nasty 3/8" spinners to be found on anything we came across.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Is It Ready Yet...Moe (5.9+)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Very good route, deserves more than 2 stars. Below the first bolt and coming out of the upper corner are the cruxes, IMHO. It is easy to be led astray by chalked "sucker" holds in that corner (which happened to me). Even so, this is harder, more techy, and more balancy/insecure compared to Unfamiliar Strangers (.9+) to its left and The Tower over at Avalon.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Please add the bolt. I climbed this yesterday (Sep 2) and was amazed by the runout on what I think is 5.3 terrain. Still, the fall from the last bolt as it stands now will be big (~ 50 feet, figuring in slack and rope stretch).


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Marquis de Sade (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Good climb. For me, only the awkward roof took half a star away from being a great route. Harder than Lust on Tarot Wall, IMHO.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Slayer (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: I echo the two comments above about being on your game down low. To me, the crux is between bolt #2 and #3.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Wake Up Call (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 1, 2017

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Comments: Thank you for the new hardware. Much appreciated. Super slick and spooky through the first two bolts ground up with no stick clip. Very enjoyable at .9 grade the rest of the way to the anchors.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Upper Ice Caves (Feline are... : Feline (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 1, 2017

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Comments: Wow, what a route! To whomever has their project draws up on this climb, thank you. They came in very handy. Good luck with the send!


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Middle Ice Caves (Potato Ro... : Merry Maids (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 1, 2017

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Comments: Thanks to all for the new hardware (even tho they were installed a few years ago). Very nice route. The crux is somewhat height-dependent, but there are a lot of choices for high feet.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Canine Wall : Tiny Two Step (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 31, 2017

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Comments: Good route, Michael. Thanks for putting it up. Deserves much more traffic to keep it clean. There was zero chalk on this route before I climbed it today. Challenging start to 1st bolt, then interesting, very techy for the grade, and cruxy midsection with an enjoyable finish. The moves were quite varied, I even used a finger lock/jam move on the climb! The (iron oxide) horizontal protrusions look improbable but totally solid (and necessary).


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Incline Club (5.7+)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 30, 2017

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Comments: There are one or two runout sections on the slab section of this climb.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Tomb of Sorrows (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 30, 2017

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Comments: It would appear that this route now has its own rap anchors above those for Incline Club. Beware of loose blocks on the ledge that leads to the anchors.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Stuck In Time (5.11)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: My partner and I, both around 5'6", only did P1 today. We both rated P1 5.10, mostly due to some long moves. We said 5.9 is the average grade of P1; 5.10 the first 1/3 and then 5.8 for the rest! :)


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bush Administration (5.10b/c)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: My partner and I are both around 5'6". We would rate this climb a stellar, solid 5.10. Putting draws into the bolt hangers were for the most part quite reachy. Our first (and warm-up) climb in CO. What a start! Best route of our first day here, and we only did 3-star and 4-star routes.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 25, 2017

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Comments: We will be first-time visitors to Boulder Canyon. For whatever reason, this crag has "animal appeal". Does it get shade in the morning or late afternoon this time of the year (summer), and what are the sporto must-dos here, between .9 and .12b?
Many thanks for any and all beta!


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