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Member Since: Oct 30, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Ryan Strickland

Point Rank: # 3,814
Total Points: 175
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 290 | Routes 3 | Areas 2 | Photos 13 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 46 | Posts 64 | Stars 129 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (t) Eagle Pinnacle : Andy Dude (5.10c)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: We happened on this route after climbing Eagle's Nest. Didn't know what it was but it looked cool so we went for it. Really a cool climb! Too bad it's such a pain to get to it, otherwise it'd probably be climbed a lot more. Not knowing the grade, we thought 5.10b was fair. It's not quite as hard as Flakes of Wrath.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (l) Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Right ... : East Buttress Gully (5.2)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: This low angle gully is not worth the time needed to climb it. It's currently full of broken limbs, leaves, and pine needles from a tree that fell somewhat recently. The best thing about this route is that you can set up a top rope over above Captain Hook, Passtime, and Frustration by traversing left across the ledge at the top of this route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Gallwas' Gallop (5.9+)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Just did this one after having put it off for a while. No individual move felt all that challenging to warrant the 5.9+. However, all the essential pieces of pro were very small and a few key holds were just wedged/hanging blocks. A heady lead for sure. Be solid at 5.9 before getting on this one. You can get to the first pitch belay, placing pro at every opportunity, with nothing larger than a #1 C4 and a good selection of small cams.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (l) Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Ham Sandwich (5.10b)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: Led this thing recently. Kind of an interesting route. Some DFU moves getting to the first bolt, then a cruxy traverse left to the flake on Razor Games. An orange Metolius fits perfectly near the top of the flake, where the flake is most solid. You can then step up to clip a bolt on Razor Games before moving left again towards Hernia. I led it with nothing bigger than a 0.75 C4. Anything bigger would be for the Hernia part, which is trivial compared to the climbing that got you there, and can st... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (l) Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Sword of Damocles (5.9)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Never a line for this climb. I think this was my first 5.9 lead. I've done it twice and think it's a pretty interesting route. It also gives you easy access to the super-anchor on top of Captain Hook, Passtime, and Frustration.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (l) Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : The Hernia (5.8)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: When this route was originally done, it was only 5.6. Since then a block fell off the climb, forming the crux roof. The block that fell is still at the base of the route; you can see old pin scars on it!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Buttress Chimney (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: The first 20 feet of this route put you on Insomnia or give you access to Hesitation. You could do the bottom as a squeeze, but it's easier and faster to stem the corner. You could try to place an offset brass to protect the moves, but it'll probably fall out when you climb past it. Better to just not mess up the moves and have a large, soft belayer to land on if you do slip.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Upper Royal's Arch (5.8)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: I think this route has the best top out moves of any route on Tahquitz. Go do it and see what you think! While no one move is all that difficult, the position makes the route feel challenging for the grade.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Rock Hudson (5.12c)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: How many times has this thing been led?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Flakes of Wrath (5.10c R)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: The pin is still there and is an essential piece of pro. A couple years ago, I went up to it with a hammer to test it a bit, to make sure it was still good. In short, that pin is welded and bomber. I didn't want to beat on it or break it, but the pin didn't move at all. It'll be a sad day if that pin ever breaks or cracks. I think if the pin were removed it might take a nice offset alien, but it's hard to say. I don't want to be the guy who breaks the head off the pin trying to find out if it'll... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the alleged rattlesnake:

Does it make sense for a cold blooded reptile to hang out 60 feet up in a cold crack that almost never sees sunlight? What is it eating up there? How does it digest that food in such a cold place?

I climbed the route a couple of weeks ago and there was definitely something hissing in the crack. Not a rattler though, a bat. I can see how it could be confused for a snake. Once, while downclimbing the Trough, I accidentally touched a bat in a crack. Scared the s... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Sidewinder (5.10b PG13)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: I managed to take the fall midway through the traverse...wasn't too bad. I ended up back even with the roof. It was a clean fall, no problems. I even climbed everything up to there on-sight. I really just wasn't concentrating enough on my foot placement during the traverse and lost balance. Climbed back up and finished the route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Muir Wall (5.10 A2) : Photo
By: Ryan Strickland When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: Where on the Muir is this? I did the route this past summer and don't recall any part of the route looking like that, especially up high.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation Direct Sta... (5.10c)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: A friend of mine pulled that pin in a fall! The gear he had below it protected him well enough and kept him of the deck.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Celebrated Beast (5.8+)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: We did this one without knowing the rating. I thought it was 5.10 material between the first two bolts. The movement was awkward, but the feet were very positive. Maybe that's why it's given 5.8? Felt about as hard as they crux on Loose Lady. Worthwhile route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (m) The Weeping Wall : Commencement (5.9 R)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Interesting position, but not a great route. The first pitch has an old rusty bolt about half way up, and there are a few options for gear. The second pitch route was non-distinct. There were numerous ways one could go. I think I found my way over to Continuation for the top out. Nothing really felt 5.9 for me, but I was likely off route due to following the path of least resistance. Pro was tricky at times. No gear bigger than 1" cam needed.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Grandote (5.9)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a full-value 5.9 for Idyllwild. Route-finding was a challenge on every pitch. Every pitch until you get over the roof a few hundred feet up was challenging and probably 5.9. There were frequent "better not fall" areas on every pitch, but nothing too crazy. Overall, I enjoyed the route and would recommend it. Make sure you're solid on 5.9 and be prepared to take your time finding the best route up, because there are often many good looking options that may or may not work out w... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (t) Eagle Pinnacle : Finger Lickin' Good (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: A good lead for the budding climber. Fun finger locks with reasonable protection. Very short by Idyllwild standards.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (t) Eagle Pinnacle : Jizz (5.10b)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I did this one a couple of summer's ago. It's a fun lead that's well protected through the crux. You might want a few cams around 1 inch or so you can protect the last move to the anchors, but not really necessary. Get on it if you're doing Johnny Quest and Flakes of Wrath.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (c) Le Dent Pinnacle : Munge Dihedral (5.10a)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Strenuous but always there. The squeeze at the bottom might be the crux for some. If fists are your weakness (like me), this climb will feel challenging for the grade.

This is probably one of the cooler crack climbs in Idyllwild. Too bad it's way out at Le Dent or it would receive hundreds more ascents per year, but maybe that's a good thing!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (c) Le Dent Pinnacle : Jammit (5.9)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I found this one to be the most challenging 5.9 I've done in Idyllwild (and I've led 15 of 'em). I must have been doing it wrong or something... The moves continue to be challenging and fun for the remainder of the climb.

It is a well protected climb with plenty of rests for gear placement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Beginner's Three (5.3)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: The start is definitely challenging for 5.3. However, they are the most difficult moves on the climb. If you can get off the ground, you'll cruise the climb. It has more fun jamming than the Bong, but is way less cool of a line.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I've only climbed down this thing, but it's a fun route! The chimney crux moves are secure as a downclimb; it's probably harder going up. In my opinion the least secure moves on the down climb are the last 5 feet!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Bat Crack (5.5)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: The plated face to the left of the chimney start is a fun way to do this one. It protects well for the leader but does involve a poorly protected traverse for the follower at the end of the first pitch. Facing out and chimney climbing the first half of the second pitch makes it pretty secure if you're worried. The slab to the right of the crack on P2 is fun to climb as well once you get a ways up the crack (provided you aren't worried about falling).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Bonzo Dog Band (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Probably a better solo than lead.

BETA ALERT! If you're keeping it 5.7, you need to move left onto the flake after standing on a boulder at the base of the climb. Placing gear under the flake doesn't seem like it would make the climb safer to lead, just more tedious. The slab moves are solid and no where near as slick as most 5.7 slabs in the area. The rest of the climb is better protected and easier.


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