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Member Since: Jan 25, 2004
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Roy Leggett
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Point Rank: # 2,862
Total Points: 270

59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Roy Leggett been climbing?


All 227 | Routes 5 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 44 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 22 | Stars 98 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Mount Moran > South Buttress Right, Mt. M... (5.11)
By: Roy Leggett When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Amazing route! I felt the crux was pretty solid 11/11+, but I have fat fingers and was barely getting half my fingernail in. The traversing pitches are mega 5 stars! Also, the slab at the end is full value. Hard slab climbing (felt 10+/11 to me) on old, rusted, half driven 1/4" star drives. I tried for a while to free it and ultimately decided the potential for a serious fall wasn't worth it (no shame here). I pulled on the bolts and that was even terrifying. They need to be replaced. Seriously ... more >>

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Sunshine Wall > Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Roy Leggett When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: The crux knifeblade is no longer in place. As I led the route today, I gave the pin a quick test and it came half-way out. I deliberated for a while (read: cussed a bit), thought about bailing, but pushed it back in and finished the route feeling a bit uneasy about the whole process. On my way down, I gave it one mild tug and it came right out.
If I get a chance, I'll try to head back up and replace it soon. Be forewarned, the crux section is a bit runout now (still?).
I'll echo the lots of dr... more >>

Location: Colorado > Ouray vicinity (rock) > Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall
By: Roy Leggett When: Apr 16, 2010

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Comments: 12a......Oi! You Ouray folk are strong! And just when I thought I was becoming a decent rock climber, you go and humble me up. Thanks I guess. It is truly a great route. Some of the most fun 30 feet of climbing I have ever done.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Le Void (5.11d R)
By: Roy Leggett When: Mar 4, 2010

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Comments: I guess I should clarify, I heard linking the 11+ flake into the large roof (second 11+ crux) was the way to go. Is that what you mean too? I didn't think you could lower to the ground from above the roof. Guess I'll just have to sack-up and go find out.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Le Void (5.11d R)
By: Roy Leggett When: Mar 2, 2010

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Comments: My partner and I backed off after he attempted the second pitch. We were both afraid he'd factor 2 onto the anchor if he blew it. So, in my research and plans to redeem myself, I've heard that it is safer to set the belay below the first crux and link both cruxes, OR the Josh Wharton superhero beta is do it all in one long rope stretcher (which he said might be the best 12a pitch in the canyon this way).
Any thoughts Rob or Alex as to this approach? I suppose carrying the double or triple set (... more >>

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > RMNP Bouldering Areas > Tyndall Gorge > ... > The Kind (originally In You... (V5)
By: Roy Leggett When: Nov 22, 2009

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Comments: "I"! The Royal "we"! You know, the editorial........(The Dude)

When I first got on this problem 10 years ago, it was described/named as Standard Overhang to me. Obviously there are some different communities at play here. I personally will choose to respect the pioneers of the area, remember the history and will continue to know it as "Standard Overhang". But, since I don’t boulder up there anymore and since the "royal we" of "the community that boulders in the park" needs to know this as the... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part D - Xanad... > Air Mail (5.10b PG13)
By: Roy Leggett When: Nov 20, 2009

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Comments: Quite the warm-up. Caught me a bit off guard for sure.
I did get a real good #3 BD (#4 might work well/better too) in the hueco on the left wall at the crux.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > RMNP Bouldering Areas > Tyndall Gorge > ... > The Kind (originally In You... (V5)
By: Roy Leggett When: Oct 29, 2009

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Comments: To quote Tcami....
"I've cited my reasons for naming the route the way it is"
"route information is posted by individuals I think they should do so as they see fit while taking into consideration the views of others."

1. You didn't name the entered it into a database, and incorrectly too I might add.
2. Jason was not offering his "view" on the matter; he was correcting you and informing us.

I find it interesting that the route heading went from: The Kine, to The Kind aka Stand... more >>

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Twin Owls > Wolf's Tooth (5.8+)
By: Roy Leggett When: Sep 14, 2008

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Comments: FYI regarding the above, Steve Su onsight lead the right side flake of West Owl Direct, Beth made the 3rd ascent of Anaconda, and I heard Tommy O-boxed Autumn Mist.
I absolutely love this crag and all of the routes so I always keep my ear to the ground on the climbing there.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Fern Canyon Rocks > Rock Of Ages > Desolation Angels (5.11d R)
By: Roy Leggett When: Jul 28, 2006

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Comments: This is an awesome route. IMO, it is one of the better single pitches in the Estes Park area. There is some lichen issues, and it needs some more traffic, but I've been on it 3 times in the past 2 months, and it has gotten exponentially cleaner.
The route takes great gear and has clean falls. The three cruxes are getting underneath the roof, turning the lip of the roof, then the upper dihedral.
A great way to do the route (and truly test you stamina) is to climb the slightly overhung finger cr... more >>

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Bookmark > Between The Sheets (5.11+)
By: Roy Leggett When: Jun 7, 2006

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Comments: Does anyone know what the "Seam Direct" finish is all about on P.2? Rather then breaking right around the bulge, you would stay in the seam. From what I remember: there was a fixed nut and 2 bolts (with red tags).

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Bear Lake Trailheads > Odessa Gorge > ... > Hot Doggie (WI5)
By: Roy Leggett When: May 3, 2006

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Comments: Steve Su and I climbed this on November 26, 2005. We fixed a Knifeblade for a belay 20 feet to the left of the start of the pillar. Another blade or some RPs would complement the anchor and is recommended given the fallout terrain and the tenuous nature of the route and its protection (especially at the start).
We also fixed an angle approx. 10 feet up in the crack at the back of the wall.
The "approach" pitch is a little exposed and you may want to consider roping up.
Also, given that this u... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Kloof Alcove
By: Roy Leggett When: Apr 1, 2006

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Comments: Lycra-Clad Donkeys/Iron Monkey. 14a.

Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... > Lost Cities (5.12- R)
By: Roy Leggett When: Sep 11, 2005

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Comments: Helpful Beta....take your helmet and pack off for the crux. You may want consider ditching your pack for the OW section on p.9 too (only necessary if you are as pooped as I was). If you have a tag line, you can haul your pack on these pitches....but given the fact that a possible walk off ledge splits the route, it's a good route to go commando style on (one rope). After p.1 (400 ft.), No pitch is over 120ft.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond
By: Roy Leggett When: Sep 6, 2005

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Comments: FYI- The Park Service and (hopefully) competent volunteers will be doing an East Face/ Diamond clean up on the weekend of Sept 17/18th. The cleanup teams will be ascending Kiener's and rapping in from Table ledge. They will be removing as much tat and bail junk as they can on The D and the Lower E. Face. It might be wise to avoid the area that weekend as it could be a bit of a madhouse.

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Twin Owls > Condones (5.12b)
By: Roy Leggett When: Jul 28, 2005

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Comments: This is a great addition to Twin Owls. [Don't] underestimate it, it packs a punch. The gear is good....but you need to know where to place it. My belayer was telling me if the gear in the layback/ undercling flake was good because I [couldn't] really see it. Also, save a green alien for the traverse between the two cracks.

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Vail Ice > Spiral Staircase area > Tourette's (WI4- M6)
By: Roy Leggett When: Jan 24, 2005

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Comments: ...A helpful hold broke from just below the overhang last year, upping the ante a bit. Slab climbing w/ crampons and tools is really fun. Take your meds....

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Twin Owls > Autumn Mist (5.13a C2)
By: Roy Leggett When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: I'm not very good at the rating game, but after talking with some folk who have tried it and after doing the route...I'm thinking mid/hard 12. I'm psyched to try it placing the gear and for other folks to get on it and see what they think. [It's] a great route.

Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Shock-loading slings, daisy chains, PAS...Climbing Gear DiscussionRoy LeggettMay 31, 2012
Yosemite to Reno transportation or ride June 22ndNorthern CaliforniaRoy LeggettMay 25, 2012
re: deep water soloing in colorado?ColoradoRoy LeggettMay 1, 2012
re: Rainbow Wall.NevadaRoy LeggettMar 15, 2012
re: Harvey T. CarterColoradoRoy LeggettMar 13, 2012
re: Pulse Oximeter for High Altitude ClimbingClimbing Gear DiscussionRoy LeggettFeb 10, 2012
re: Black diamond Corba lost on Notch TopLost and FoundRoy LeggettDec 17, 2011
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