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Rock Climbing Photo: Biker Fun


Member Since: Jul 3, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Ross

Point Rank: # 417
Total Points: 1,750
Last Year: 219
Last 30 Days: 3
73 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ross been climbing?










Contributions


All 938 | Routes 72 | Areas 18 | Photos 126 | Page Improvements | Comments 130 | Posts 101 | Stars 401 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : The Road Goes Ever On (5.11b)
By: Ross When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: I did the first 10b pitch yesterday, and the runout after placing small cam & nut was really scary. Halfway up the runout, I almost peeled. I do not recommend it, since if you fall, you might hit the broken ledge.

Beta: although falling repeatedly, the 11b was much harder than some 11c's I've been on. First I tried straight up, then I tried right. I kept slipping on the smooth face; finally going left I found a micro foot hold that I was able to... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Fever Dance (5.10c/d)
By: Ross When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: After many visits to Monkey Skull, finally onsighted this climb. Looking down from the belay I couldn't believe all the gear I put in, but I'll tell you, I didn't notice the moving flake. My partner said he saw the flake expand when he took out the cam at its small crown. RP/HBs were useful.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Fringe Dweller (5.10b/c)
By: Ross When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: Midway up w/bolt at your face, there is a step right with only crappy sidepulls and a big stem out right to foot pocket, that was 10b/c for me, maybe moving right before this would be easier?
Before stepping right, I did step up, and I'm glad I didn't deadpoint what looked to be a hold above the bolt, I'm glad I didn't, since it turned out to be a sloper.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Throne : Magnum P.I. (5.9+ PG13)
By: Ross When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: I rated this climb 4 stars, because the climbing of P1 is really good on double cracks, step left to join left crack mid-way up. Do not go to the anchors on petticoat, instead near the top go right, continue to the crack end. Take extra finger-size pro.

For P2, going around the "ear" feature was interesting, the climbing gets easier after that.

A short crack on east face at top of P3 was 5.9 but too short.

Three long raps on a 70m down the north fac... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs : Gravity's Rainbow (5.11a)
By: Ross When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Camolots used for my lead: 1 #4, 3 #3, 3 #2, 2 #1, 1 #0.75, 1 #0.5.
Been wanting to lead this climb for 10 years, got the onsight 2 weeks after my 60th B-Day.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Pile : The Naugahide Stool (origin... (5.10a)
By: Ross When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: Eh, I thought it was good.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Dynamite (5.10a/b R)
By: Ross When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: I've swapped pitches on Birds of Fire, and I thought the runout on Dynamite was scary, especially the clip. For me, this rock took some getting use to, it's like the friction you get at Eldo.

We continued to the top on Broadmoor. If you are considering doing that, I'd suggest linking Dynamite with the next pitch of Broadmoor, then you can skip the hanging belay. A 70m will make it. The crux on P6 sneaks up on you.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Pinewood Boulders, Tomato R... : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: I named this climb after a route I used to do at my first climbing area back east in Maryland, Ilchester near Ellicott City.


Location: MD : Patapsco State Park : Ilchester : Blue Rose (5.8+) : Photo (Copy)
By: Ross When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: Where I started climbing, well actually I first tried to climb up the rock face below this crag where the train enters the tunnel, lucky I was able to down climb without falling.
I see there are new tags of graffiti on the face.
I remember a couple of the guys in the 80's Alex, & Dennis.
--Ross


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Ross When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: At ledges above crux of P3, head up & left to 2 bolt anchor. Nice balance corner, harder than P1 & P2. For P3, don't bring anything bigger than a red Camolot.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Golden Monkey (5.10b/c R)
By: Ross When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: For P1, I felt the crux was between bolts 1 & 2, I used two #3 Camalots, first below bolt 1 and second near top P1 in left-facing crack. Route finding was fun for P1, 10b/c. For P2, I almost blew a clip on 2nd or 3rd to the last bolt, P2 is fabulous, but it's no give a way; stay focused!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Pantheon : Maximus (5.9)
By: Ross When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: I downgraded the difficulty to 5.8 because of good, small, foot hold ledges during laybacks and trick used @ the roof, see my beta in the tick section.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Pantheon : Bury the Hatchet (5.10 PG13)
By: Ross When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Went left at 2nd to last bolt crux on series of left-facing handholds to ramp, still 10b. On rap, I could see there was a hold around right corner that probably would be a better ending but harder?

I use one red HB on the second pitch, that's it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : C'est La Vrie (5.8+ PG13)
By: Ross When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: EDIT: after checking the topo, it appears I was off route, doh!, but I'll keep my comment just the same:

To the route description, I would add:

Begin on the 4-5 foot tall boulder to the right of the corner. Step up and stem left until you can stand in the crack above a dead stump. Ascend the wide OW/chimney, I did a layback, near top of wide crack step right to place gear (**) and extend or after you have gear in the dihedral, retreat to remove piece ** (need a bolt near to... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: No off route, you pull up through the overhang then traverse; instead of traversing as shown in pic, see Gillett's comment about an exciting finish.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : Triple Bypass (5.11b)
By: Ross When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: See my tic comment for beta at second roof. I had mega rope drag at top, due to rope weaving before traverse. Take small stoppers or micro cams.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Roadside Rock : Drop Your Cool, Tom Foolery (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: If rapping off on the skier's right, be warned that rope may get stuck, e.g. like mine did. Leading back up a plant filled wide crack was okay but a time suck. Best to wrap towards road, but watch the p-ivy.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Camel Toe (5.9+)
By: Ross When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments:
  • ** 2016 Approach Trail update ***
Start just above pavilion on EAST side of new lodge.
Much tree fall near base of cliff.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Gunsmoke Area : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Jan 1, 2016

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Comments: My adrenaline shoots up when I look at this picture.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Danger High Voltage (5.8) : Photo
By: Ross When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Good work Men


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Tiberone (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: After the stem beginning, keeping your feet in the crack is the way to go.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Hammerhead (5.9)
By: Ross When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: Solid 5.9. Having 2 #3 Camalots would have been nice, but the upper middle section does have a couple of hidden cracks for small Aliens or the like.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Black Powder (5.9+)
By: Ross When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: At the roof lip, we didn't see how it would be possible to place gear on right as described here and also in Gillett's guidebook, that crack is not even close by.

You do not want to leave any gear at the lip the roof! Your rope can get caught with the gear and be very difficult to pull. Better would be to place pro at lip, make the lip move, place more pro higher in crack then reach back down to remove the pro at the lip.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: Lucky!
Every time I've hit that traverse it's been wet.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: There is a key tiny foot hold at climber's waist that is easy to miss.


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