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Member Since: Sep 5, 2011
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact rogerbenton

Point Rank: # 4,631
Total Points: 90

5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has rogerbenton been climbing?










Contributions


All 540 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 332 | Stars 87 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Spring (P1) (5.9)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: There is definitely a bomber pod 3-4" ABOVE the roof that will swallow a #6 BD nut, but I don't know about this "under the roof" placement.
I could be missing something but I think Mrkb3 meant 'above' instead of 'below' the roof.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Laurel (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Hit this again this weekend for the first time in years and it's still a wonderful little route.
It was my first lead in a few months and what a great line to get back into it on- this thing eats gear.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Grease Gun Groove (5.6)
By: rogerbenton When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: TONS of gear available on 1st pitch.
Would be a good one to send a new leader up (provided they can climb comfortably at the grade) just because there are so many gear placement opportunities.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: Definitely skip the small, dead/dying tree, regardless of whether it's backed up with a nut/tricam.
Do it in one, or if you absolutely have to, build an ultra bomber gear anchor in the hand crack above the dead tree.
The moves around the nose are fun, with a great view.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Mac-Reppy (5.11a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: 5.10 guys???? Are we talking about the same route?
Gotta agree with akline - this thing is HARD.
The hand jam is great, the little left hand edge is ok, but that reach...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Hang Ten (5.10a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: +1 on the crappy gear just over the lip.

There is a super bomber yellow alien just under the roof however, and a PERFECT blue alien before that.

Trust them, and move quickly. There is good gear a little further past the lip.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Honky Tonk Woman (5.9 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Not so sure there is still gear between the bolt and the big #3 horizontal.

I was told of a small offset placement but the rock there appears to have been blown out. Looks like possible fresh rock scaring there. The small offset won't go and it's too shallow and flared there for wires.

There might be a marginal small wire placement one move before the bomber horizontal but by that point you are extremely run out with a small spinner bolt around 10-12 feet below your feet (ground fall p... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Teeny Face (5.10a) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: ˆˆˆˆˆ Agreed ˆˆˆˆˆ


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Sig Sauer (5.12a) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This pic makes my toes hurt.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Peppy's Face (5.12a R)
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Wow.

I can't imagine putting this thing up on lead- Bravo.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Ridiculous exposure on this pitch, and great climbing as well.

Stellar.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: I feel like i need to qualify Kurtz's suggestion for pro on reppy's-

a #.75 and one or two #1's fit the beginning of the crack.

it's #2's from there to the pod

a #3.5 protects the pod

#3's from the top of the pod to the end of the crack. (#2's suck here)


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : To Be Or Not To Be (5.11d R) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't know for sure which is "THE" way but when we did it we went slightly left where the line in the pic goes slightly right.

Sort of crappy right hand (or match) at the right corner under the block (right above where the yellow line kinks right) then a big move high and left for the top left corner of the block, no?

That's what was chalked up, anyway, and good fun.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beatle Brow Bulge (5.10a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: 5.9+, G, lots of fun.

Certainly easier than wegtables or simple suff.

small blue camalot for the roof.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10b PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Wow. This thing is brutal.
Be very concious of rope drag, the last two roofs are probably much more fun without it.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: "Suffering"...

Makes perfect sense.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I dunno, I found this to be tough. The moves and holds are there but it's real work getting established over that roof.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Boron Destroyer (5.10a/b)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Didn't think this was so bad. Two crux's if you keep left on the clean white rock.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: Holy smokes-

GREAT shot.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Mike- we did some variation, the details of which I don't recall. Sort of the direct, sort of something else. Anyway it was one of my first times at the gunks and i was following the rope... and having a blast.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Man, what a route. Definitely do it in one pitch. Big smiles, thumping pulse. Made my day.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Herdie Gerdie (5.8)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Super easy to set an anchor atop the block to TR this, Dirty Gerdie, Dogs in Heat , Red Cabbage, and Red Cabbage Right.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Super fun. It would be a shame not to do all three pitches.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Oscar and Charlie (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: P1- great little corner.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: FWIW, Grey Dick calls it PG but also calls out ballnutz for crux pro.


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