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Member Since: Oct 13, 2003
Last Visit: Aug 29, 2013
Contact Rodney Ley

Point Rank: # 8,606
Total Points: 54
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rodney Ley been climbing?










Contributions


All 54 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 5 | Stars 30 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Shag (5.7)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: This is my third year of doing Shag as a nice early season warm up. Looks like most of the flakey/loose stuff is gone now. Wish a doubled 70m touched the ground---it's close but not quite close enough.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Patricks Point SP Day use per car in August 2010 was $8 with a sign posted that says "We need ones". Actually California State Parks needs A LOT of ones.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park : Wedding Rock : Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag (5.8)
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Tim's Jam (or Crack) aka Zig Zag is a decidedly non-ocean type feature. Although not particularly high (20 meters +/-) it is an airy climb with wide-crack laybacking and thrashing. Photo shows the spot right below the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's...
Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's Crack.



Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Centipede was a great introduction to ocean area climbing: dramatic surf pounding nearby, steep/solid rock, and interesting moves. As a Colorado climber I was appalled at the condition of the bolt heads, but some of them might be 19 years old! Could not find a 2-bolt anchor at the top as mentioned in the local guidebook, but rigged okay TR anchor off two s/s bolts about 10 meters back and left of the master point.
Rock Climbing Photo: Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "oce...
Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "ocean corridor" area at the base of Centipede (5.9).



Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory : Main Wall : Humboldt Current (5.10a)
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. H...
Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. He led what we think was Humboldt Current, note screamer at his knees and pumpy pinches on the sandstone pockets. Bold line...

If this climb we did really is Humboldt Current then it is pretty stiff at its grade. Was way sandy for us spoiled Colorado climbers, and plenty of flakes coming off with every move. Pretty scary by Colorado standards, props to the FA crew.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry (5.7 R)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jul 10, 2010

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Comments: I noted today that a party with a brand new Edelweiss rope labeled 70m on the tip was in fact one meter shy of reaching the ground. They did fine with rope stretch on their rap.

My Sterling 9.8 rope (labeled 70m) just barely touched the ground. So I agree, with care, a 70m rope should do fine.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Central Chimney (5.4)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jul 3, 2006

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Comments: Central Chimney is a nice route at a beginner's level.

Tip of the week: watch out for rope drag, since most of the route is low-angle and very easy, there is a temptation to run out the rope.

I didn't think pro was a problem, but then I cut my teeth on chimneys at Vedauwoo.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Slab Happy (5.7)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jun 30, 2006

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Comments: Agreed, Slab Happy is one sweet route. (And be sure to take a 1" piece to protect the slightly runout hard 5.7+ finish.)

Many routes at Greyrock are hard to find. My advice is to locate any obvious route for absolutely certain, then slowly work your way left or right to find the one you're looking for.