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Member Since: Oct 13, 2003
Last Visit: Aug 29, 2013
Contact Rodney Ley

Point Rank: # 8,619
Total Points: 54
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rodney Ley been climbing?










Contributions


All 54 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 5 | Stars 30 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim's Crack first few moves. Easy at first but inc...

Tim's Crack first few moves. Easy at first but increasingly steep (to overhanging) with laybacks, fist jams and slopey jugs. Must have been a bold lead in 1970!

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag (5.8)

Aug 15, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's...

Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's Crack.

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Comment

Aug 15, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Last couple of moves to the nice 2-bolt anchor (ea...

Last couple of moves to the nice 2-bolt anchor (easily reached from the stairway). Thin and thoughtful for beginning climbers.

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : South Face (5.6)

Aug 15, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: South Face (5.6) of Ceremonial Rock in Patricks Po...

South Face (5.6) of Ceremonial Rock in Patricks Point State Park, Cali. Fun TR on cool, moist rock--- crazy that moss grows everywhere except the holds!

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : South Face (5.6)

Aug 15, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Centipede (5.9) on TR above first bolt. If leading...

Centipede (5.9) on TR above first bolt. If leading this route a fall would ground out and second bolt is two spooky moves higher (5.6ish). Bolts are getting old (pic = 2010) and sorta scary.

CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory

Aug 15, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Humboldt Current (5.10a) with first bolt clipped. ...

Humboldt Current (5.10a) with first bolt clipped. August of 2010, very sandy holds, had to be swept repeatedly for decent grip. All the lead bolts are showing corrosion, but anchors are nice s/s glue-

CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory

Aug 15, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "oce...

Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "ocean corridor" area at the base of Centipede (5.9).

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Comment

Aug 15, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. H...

Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. He led what we think was Humboldt Current, note screamer at his knees and pumpy pinches on the sandstone pockets. Bold line...

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Comment

Aug 15, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Shag (5.7)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jun 4, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This is my third year of doing Shag as a nice early season warm up. Looks like most of the flakey/loose stuff is gone now. Wish a doubled 70m touched the ground---it's close but not quite close enough.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Patricks Point SP Day use per car in August 2010 was $8 with a sign posted that says "We need ones". Actually California State Parks needs A LOT of ones.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park : Wedding Rock : Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag (5.8)
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Tim's Jam (or Crack) aka Zig Zag is a decidedly non-ocean type feature. Although not particularly high (20 meters +/-) it is an airy climb with wide-crack laybacking and thrashing. Photo shows the spot right below the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's...
Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's Crack.



Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Centipede was a great introduction to ocean area climbing: dramatic surf pounding nearby, steep/solid rock, and interesting moves. As a Colorado climber I was appalled at the condition of the bolt heads, but some of them might be 19 years old! Could not find a 2-bolt anchor at the top as mentioned in the local guidebook, but rigged okay TR anchor off two s/s bolts about 10 meters back and left of the master point.
Rock Climbing Photo: Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "oce...
Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "ocean corridor" area at the base of Centipede (5.9).



Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory : Main Wall : Humboldt Current (5.10a)
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. H...
Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. He led what we think was Humboldt Current, note screamer at his knees and pumpy pinches on the sandstone pockets. Bold line...

If this climb we did really is Humboldt Current then it is pretty stiff at its grade. Was way sandy for us spoiled Colorado climbers, and plenty of flakes coming off with every move. Pretty scary by Colorado standards, props to the FA crew.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry (5.7 R)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jul 10, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I noted today that a party with a brand new Edelweiss rope labeled 70m on the tip was in fact one meter shy of reaching the ground. They did fine with rope stretch on their rap.

My Sterling 9.8 rope (labeled 70m) just barely touched the ground. So I agree, with care, a 70m rope should do fine.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Central Chimney (5.4)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jul 3, 2006

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Comments: Central Chimney is a nice route at a beginner's level.

Tip of the week: watch out for rope drag, since most of the route is low-angle and very easy, there is a temptation to run out the rope.

I didn't think pro was a problem, but then I cut my teeth on chimneys at Vedauwoo.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Slab Happy (5.7)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jun 30, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, Slab Happy is one sweet route. (And be sure to take a 1" piece to protect the slightly runout hard 5.7+ finish.)

Many routes at Greyrock are hard to find. My advice is to locate any obvious route for absolutely certain, then slowly work your way left or right to find the one you're looking for.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Lumpy Ridge Fatal AccidentInjuries and AccidentsRodney LeyAug 24, 2013
re: The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread ColoradoRodney LeyDec 25, 2012
re: You guys have inspired me!! This may sound like another acid dream but it is all true!NevadaRodney LeyMay 2, 2010
re: 2009/2010 Colorado Ice ConditionsColoradoRodney LeyDec 27, 2009
re: Preparation For WFR CourseGeneral ClimbingRodney LeyOct 12, 2009

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Dragon's Tail Couloir WI2 M2

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Flattop Mountain - S side

Edge of Time 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : The Fin

Shooting Star

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : James Peak

East Slab 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : The Dome

Coloradoddity 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Big Ass Slab?

Salsa Pants 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : North Face

Middle Toe 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Dinosaur's Foot

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

CO : Fort Collins : ... : The South Slabs

East of Eden 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Fort Collins : ... : The Eden Wall

Greatest Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Southeast Face

Theodore 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Southeast Face

Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Wedding Rock

Slab Happy 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Fort Collins : ... : The South Slabs

Rambo Santa 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Combat Rock

Humboldt Current 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Main Wall

Love Canal 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Battle of the Bulge (suggested name) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Combat Rock

Shag 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Reflections WI3-4

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Glacier Creek Drainage incl...

Central Chimney 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Southeast Face

Fun Flake 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CO : Fort Collins : ... : The South Slabs

South Face 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : South and West Faces of Cer...

Upper Falls WI2

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice

Arch Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CO : Lumpy Ridge : Lens Rock

Tennis Shoe Tango 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CO : Lumpy Ridge : Lens Rock

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