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Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 5, 2017
Contact Rodger Raubach

Point Rank: # 90
Total Points: 4,872

104 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All 2168 | Routes 78 | Areas 48 | Photos 1009 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 495 | Posts 8 | Stars 311 | Ratings 215
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Nipples and Clits (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: The route shares an anchor with Dimples and Tits.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Dimples and Tits (5.11a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Dimples and Tits is listed in the Bingham guidebook as Kibbles and Bits.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Friction Slide (5.8-)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: This can actually be thought of as a "hard start" variation for Walt's Wall; Edward's Crack can be reached by climbing the Siska Face. It's also a nice toprope for climbers wanting to explore the wonderful world of face/friction climbing at Vedauwoo!


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Foolishness (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Rob Kelman recommends bringing along a #4 Camalot for the wide section in his book: Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : 5.7 Cracks (5.7+ PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: BITD before wired stoppers, Camalots, and sticky rubber soles, this climb had quite a reputation for being pretty scary. I tried it once in old RR Blue Boots and with a few pitons along. Sadly failed but led it easily a number of years later in Sportivas with a light rack with small wires and a couple cams.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: My "most memorable" ascent of this route was in the Fall of 1965 with Layton Kor. We timed ourselves, and it took only 40 minutes car-to-car. That was still driving and pulling pitons (I recall only ONE piton being placed on the 2nd lead). That was an "after work special" by Layton, and we had to go get beer and a bite to eat.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Left Side (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Overall a decent route, but tends to be more a consolation prize if the Center is already occupied. First lead is probably 5.5, and the second is worthwhile, 5.7. More loose rock than elsewhere, too. Watch it towards the top, pulling onto the Grack "summit."


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Chouin... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: Chris is correct, this indeed is the second pitch variation. The 5.8 first pitch is fun, and this 5.6 variation is a good alternative to the HD route normal finish.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 24, 2013

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Comments: The accident rate on this climb is high only because it's probably the most popular "moderate" climb in Eldorado. Not a good beginner lead.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Southwest Chimney (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: BITD when I was young and stupid, we used to downclimb this unroped all the time. I wouldn't really recommend this for a n00b, since a fall would probably be pretty messy...if not fatal.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: The Worm Hole is the only descent I've ever used. It's pretty easy.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Jackson's Wall (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: It definitely makes more sense to break this up into 4 short leads to avoid awful rope drag.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Great Dihedral (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: I've done this route twice, or something very close to it, but both ascents were "way back when...." This is best done in the Fall when the water leveland creek crossing doesn't factor into the approach, or the effort isn't worthwhile. I didn't find this to be any harder than 5.4-5.5 at the time, but that's an "Old School" rating, too.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: To the PO: this has ALWAYS been a little slick! It's a water runnel.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Nice climb that's well worth the approach hike. Seemed easy for the grade.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: I believe the "R" rating pertains mostly to the first pitch, and I would be more inclined to call it PG-13. The risk factor is more evident to the second, following the first pitch, especially if it's regarded as a "date climb" for an inexperienced GF. I've had several young females get real freaked out by the rapidly found exposure.

That said, this is probably one of the few "easy" routes in Eldorado that could be called a "classic."


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : E.L.100 (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: Re degree of difficulty: I'd agree with Crusher that the 5.7 rating is a sandbag. I felt a real forearm pump on this one and was very happy finding a great hand jam that allowed my forearms to deflate a bit. Realistically graded by "modern standards" as a 5.8, or even 5.8+.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: I now recall the 1966 ascent that Bob Culp and I made as being one of the outstanding climbs of my career as an alpinist. The 4th pitch was made using exactly 1 point of aid, since there was a pre-existing piton placed in the niche where a toe hold could have been used otherwise! I recall yelling up to Bob that I thought we could have free climbed this entire pitch had that piton not interfered. Every other move on that lead was done entirely free by rigorous no falls standards in Kronhofer Klet... more >>


Location: Rodger Raubach : Dolomite landscapes and sce... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: Tre Sorelle are home to several "extremes" done by Emilio Comici, and also by Riccardo Cassin.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Right ... (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: As originally climbed, this route was done in 4 pitches. Even today, this would minimize rockfall from rope management issues. Bring a helmet if you value your noggin!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Tree (5.10-)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: The first ascender was Mike Jefferson, not Mark!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Stegasaurus (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Donno- You are correct, and the new photo shows the rock well. There were no bolts when I did the route years ago.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: After looking at some of my older pictures and reading some of the other comments here, I'd suggest a provisional PG-13 rating for the first pitch. The North Face, although somewhat more difficult, is very well-protected from the start. A leader fall on this climb's first pitch probably wouldn't be fatal but would result in more than a wounded ego.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Rodger being belayed by Brian Underhill, and Alan Carlson on the ridge above.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: To keep everybody (myself included) happy, why don't we simply call the route "Stichter Quit Before He Got the Anchor in Place?"

I'd more seriously suggest the substructure be called the "Black Tide Dike," and keep the present name as a route thereon.


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