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Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 13, 2017
Contact Rodger Raubach

Point Rank: # 89
Total Points: 4,862

102 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All 2161 | Routes 78 | Areas 48 | Photos 1007 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 491 | Posts 8 | Stars 310 | Ratings 215
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : Cimone della Pala
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Wow! I just revisited the Rolle Pass after an interval of 50 years had passed. I was simply overwhelmed by the sheer size of the mountain; obviously the years intervening allowed it to do a lot of shrinking in my mind. This sucker is HUGE!


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Lagazuoi , Fanis and Contur... : Torre Piccola di Falzarego : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: The chasm on the left side of the tower is the descent route after 2 rappels to a high point between the two towers. It's definitely "real" class 3 and some class 4 downclimbing, and an occasional short rappel from rock outcrops may be necessary especially in cold/wet/icy conditions.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Quarta Bassa : Via Normale (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: The original description given above is not erroneous, but they may have done one of the more difficult variations to begin the route. The Mauro Bernardi guidebook route actually begins on the Southeast face and angles upwards and left to the triangular ceiling for the first belay. This has become something of a "trade route, " frequently with as many as 5-6 parties either on the rock or queued up in line.
I climbed the route earlier today with Mauro, and he started by a large ring bolt anchor, ... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Lagazuoi , Fanis and Contur... : Torre Piccola di Falzarego : Torre Piccola, "via della G... (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: An additional comment re: descent. The descent is arduous and time consuming; don't underestimate how long it will take to get off the peak. Maybe that I was nursing an injured knee has affected my viewpoint, but others have expressed similar comments to me privately.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : ... : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: The recently available guidebook authored by Mauro Bernardi, more correctly lists this as the NW Dihedral route on Torre Romana, with an UIAA Grade of IV+ (roughly equivalent with YDS 5.6).


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Latina : Via Normale (Northeast Wall... (5.3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Additional commentary. This is a really fun route with a couple of very exciting rappels from a tree near the S. edge of the West face. Although the "Dolomite standard" rope is 50 meters, a 60 meter rope makes many of the descents less tricky in reaching subsequent rappel anchors.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I'm currently sending this from Wolkenstein during a rain delay in my climbing.
A few additional notes should be entered here; although bus transportation is excellent, a rental car is advised. BUT be very careful, as there are lots of huge busses on the mountain roads in addition to maniacal-suicidal motorcyclists, as well as only suicidal bicyclists! That said, accomodations are generally reasonable in the many Pensions and Hotels-Garni.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Did this route again today: 50 years TO THE DAY after my first ascent. The first 10 meters are what Mauro Bernardi has called "abgespeckt" or greasy like bacon, due to the enormous amount of traffic seen by this climb.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grande West Summit : Via delle Guide (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: The "definitive" guidebook by Mauro Bernardi shows the route broken into 5 short leads. These are also the points at which to expect the big ring bolt anchors.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Easy Way Up (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: This is NOT a "Sport Climb!"


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Cowgirl (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch in common with Cowboy Route and Easy Way Up is an outstandingly fun 50 feet of climbing to a decently protected belay stance where Easy Way Up starts. Bring either a #3 or # 4 Camalot for an anchor.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Ovest : Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The difficulty rating has changed over the intervening years, and is now rated as a 5.10-, or a 5.10a.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Due to an enormous amount of traffic on this route, the rock has become quite polished, making the climb somewhat more difficult than "5.5." Was on it today, and it sure felt more like 5.7 than "a mere 5.5."


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Mystery Achievement (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: A 70 meter rope is needed for a single rope rappel, or lowering. Still...tie knots in the rope ends!


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : First Lead (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Once an anchor is set atop this climb, there are several lines slightly harder and more challenging for beginners practice.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Eastside Groove (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: This climb is sometimes confused and misidentified as "Epic," but that climb is the last one on the East Face and right of Eastside Groove.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Epic (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: From your photo, you describe the Eastside Groove, and not Epic. Epic is the system to the right of the long and straight crack system. Both routes are 5.6.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7) : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Photo taken by Fritz.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Easy Way Up (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This climb and the Cowboy Route share a belay stance after the first 50 foot pitch. Starting the climb is probably the hardest couple moves on it. I'd call the start 5.5, or the infamous "5.4d."


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: A very enjoyable first pitch, correctly graded at 5.7. Excellent protection.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Cowboy (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This route description coincides with the route diagram in the Bingham guidebook for the Cowgirl Route, ending in the right most crack system with a tree in it. The guidebook route for Cowboy route aims almost straight up towards the left crack of the two described above.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Nipples and Clits (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: The route shares an anchor with Dimples and Tits.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Dimples and Tits (5.11a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Dimples and Tits is listed in the Bingham guidebook as Kibbles and Bits.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Friction Slide (5.8-)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: This can actually be thought of as a "hard start" variation for Walt's Wall; Edward's Crack can be reached by climbing the Siska Face. It's also a nice toprope for climbers wanting to explore the wonderful world of face/friction climbing at Vedauwoo!


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Foolishness (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Rob Kelman recommends bringing along a #4 Camalot for the wide section in his book: Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming.


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