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Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Rodger Raubach

Point Rank: # 89
Total Points: 4,787

101 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All 2122 | Routes 76 | Areas 48 | Photos 982 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 483 | Posts 8 | Stars 307 | Ratings 214
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Monte Popena Basso : Mazzorana Verschneidung (Ma... (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 16, 2017

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Comments: This route is described in several of the available guidebooks, and in English version of Anette Koehloer and Norbet Memmel's Classic Dolomite Climbs.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Monte Popena Basso
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 16, 2017

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Comments: Monte Popena Basso makes a nice day of short climbs, and the area is a lovely rest day Klettergarten. Many routes of all difficulty exist, and are easily accessed.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sassolungo (Langkolfel) gro... : Punta Delle Cinque Dita : Normal Route (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: This is a favorite with the mountain guides, and is used as an introductory climb after their climbing classes.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cadini di Misurina (Cadinsp... : Torre Wundt : Southwest Arete, "Valleferr... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: This is loosely based on the German description: Klettern in Cortina d'Ampezzo und Umgebung; Dolomiten, die Schoensten Routen. Author: Mauro Bernardi.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cadini di Misurina (Cadinsp... : Torre Wundt : South Face, " Via Mazzoran... (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: Additional information regarding Rifugio Fonda Savio can be found on TripAdvisor website: tripadvisor.com under Rifugio Fonda Savio. This climb is also described in Classic Dolomite Climbs by Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cadini di Misurina (Cadinsp... : Torre Wundt
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: The map position is just a best guess, due to being at a poor scale. Get further directions in Misurina.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : ... : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: Eriks-

You should have not strayed out onto the face; the route stays in the dihedral, where there is plenty of protection.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : Passo Sella Area : ... : North West Arete - Kasnapof... (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: There seems to be some issue regarding the correct name of the Route: Kasnapoff OR Kasnakoff? The current guidebooks produced by Mauro Bernardi of Wolkenstein/Selva Gardena have it as KASNAPOFF! The Guideook publishe back in the 1990s by Koehler and Memmel have it as KASNAKOFF. Common use in the local area should prevail, which is Kasnapoff. When I climbed the route in 1964, even then it was Kasnapoff.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr...
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Approach to the Jori Arete on Punta Fiames takes about an hour or maybe a bit less. Other routes on the more distant formations take up to 1 1/2 hours or thereabouts.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Since I was an absolute rookie, that's my butt climbing. The route was led by Alan Carlson, a CU Chemistry grad student, and I'm being belayed by Brian Underhill (yes, the son of R.L.M. Underhill). It was a marvelous day that fine Fall afternoon!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: I'd never had poison ivy rash before climbing this route; my GF was covered with it. Maybe I got it from her?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: My general observation: the higher one climbs, the better the rock becomes. I've done only the "Regular Route" around 3 or 4 times in the '80s.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Nice condition! Great bull snake! I love bull snakes!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: We used what we had, those days. Note Columbian rope, knickers, and Kronhofer klettersches.


Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : Big Time (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: My problem with this description, is it doesn't really describe the route. Such as: does this route top out on the summit of Castle Rock? Is there anything more than following the dots...uh...line of bolts?


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : Cima della Madonna : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: My previous comments are based on a very "Old School" interpretation of the equivalence of the rating scales; i.e. : UIAA versus YDS. I've discussed several of the ratings with other climbers who have repeated these UIAA Gr. V+ routes, and it's more likely that it equates to 5.8+ or possibly even 5.9-, instead of just "hard 5.7."


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Failure to Launch (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: I don't believe those are pin scars, but are natural solution pockets; hence the original name, Pocket Rocket.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pterodactyl Terrace, Left (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: I led this back in 1981, and used entirely passive pro in addition to one old fixed piton in the final lieback/dihedral. No need for an "R" rating, just MHO.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Split Pinnacle : East Arete (5.10c)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: The recent passing of Paul Kunasz in Boulder reminded me of a 1965 joint effort we made on this route. It was highly regarded at the time, but few climbers had actually done the route. It was my first experience in a Yosemite "Bombay chimney," and I struggled a lot on the first pitch; so much so that it was the first and only climb that made me barf. Heat, lack of water, and my queasy stomach called for a retreat--which we did. The first pitch may not be very severe by today's Yosemite... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: Photographer has tilted the camera; not nearly as steep as this would indicate...


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : Passo Sella Area : ... : "Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of t... (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: This route may be followed on a rappel descent of the wall in less than perfect conditions. Two 165 foot ropes are required, and 4 abseils will bring one to the base of the wall. The upper anchor may be difficult to locate.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: As an historical note, I've been looking at some of the notes I acquired during my days as a graduate student at UW (1968-1972) and as a member of the Outing Club. This isn't for certain, but Peter Koedt was likely the first ascensionist of this route. Even in 1968, this route had already attained a reputation for boldness and "don't fall" style on the first 25 feet. This route was done before 1968 in a very pure style. Jim Halfpenny always led the climb in Terray Mountain boots. A 1 1/2" angle ... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-) : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Hilarious! Who'd bring a plastic duck to the summit of a climb in Joshua Tree?


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Atlantis Wall : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Excellent rock and wonderful protection make this a great lead for the novice leader.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Water Streak (aka Friday's ... (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: The difficulty rating of this climb varies with the height of the leader; for anyone short, the final moves are pretty reachy and would be 5.10a; for taller climbers, the 5.9+ rating is accurate.


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