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Rock Climbing Photo: Half dome Cables


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Jan Tarculas

Point Rank: # 848
Total Points: 957
Last Year: 101
Last 30 Days: 50
24 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1357 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 138 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 194 | Posts 492 | Stars 297 | Ratings 228
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si...
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: I was just on this wall on Friday. I can confirm that there are new rap anchors on top just as the photo shows on the description page


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Filipino Wall
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Was this wall called Filipino wall because it was established by a Filipino?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Route wanders left to right, right to left quite a few times. Extend your draws if you can


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (e) Right of the Roof : Automatic Static (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Chains and fixe draw have been added to the ring anchors for the route.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (d) Roof Area : Delirious (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Added chains and fixe biner to the anchors on top yesterday. Enjoy

Broken hold still not there after 4th bolt or so, after the first buldge. Most people I see now go way right on the arête, make a few moves up then back left


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Conundrum (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: I added chains and fixe carabiner to the anchors of this route. Lowering of the rings of the original anchor were notorious for twisting up the rope because the angle they were drilled in.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Did a repeat of this route this past Saturday after about 4 years ago. If you're comfortable leading 5.10 I would just bring a single rack 0.4-3 C4, set of TCUs or same size small cams and a rack of small nuts.

Build a quad since all belays are bolted


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: I know those guys!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: We did this route in 4 pitches using a 70M rope on 10/30/15.

Doubles from really small gear 00/0 TCU to .75. (or equivalent) for the crux pitch and singles #1-3 BD C4s. I would say the #3 C4 isn't mandatory. I only placed it once and only did that so that I can say I used it. Bring at least 16-18 trad draws and extend everything.

Beta to keep the drag down:

Link pitch 1 and 2: Have leader clean the 2nd bolt once 3rd bolt is clipped on 1st pitch. Past 1st set of anchors and conti... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (n) The Alcove : Shwazzle Dazzle (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: I think this is just as hard as Raging Raptors 12a, but than again I've done raging raptors a dozen times. I'll revisit my opinion when I actually figure out the beta and get the red point before the anchors.

Heady getting to the 2nd bolt.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: probably only used to sit on while putting on climbing shoes


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Black Lassie (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: one of the best 10s I've ever done. Really good movement and balancy at certain sections


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : The Expedition (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: just did the route today, bolts and hangers all look good. Mussy hooks for anchors


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : King Under the Mountain (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: NO perma draws and no official guide book to the spot


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: pay attention to this photo. Very helpful because it re-assures you that you're on the right track


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Went here for the first time last week. Probably the best crag I'ved climbed at in Big Bear area. Crag isn't hard to find once you spot the cairins from the parking area. The trail is heavily marked with plenty of cairins to get you to the right spot.

trail beta: You will eventually hit a logging road with a climbing sign right before it. Head left on the logging road passing another climbers sign into a huge open field. Pay attention of cairins and head straight through the open field and slig... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : ... : Aurora Borealis (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: I used a #4 C4 down at the bottom and just kept bumping it up before the traverse left. No bigger piece needed at top. Can easily be done with a single rack .5-4 C4 with a set of nuts


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Area 51/Deer Canyon : Yo Picasso (aka Sunshine Da... : Sunshine Daydream (aka Yo P... (V4)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: BETA ALERT

If you know how to hand jam this climb feels more like a V3. I was able to relax and chill half way up the problem and get really bomber hand jams in the horizontal and vertical crack midway up. Knee bar helps


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: Must have been a lot hard with all that tape on the hand


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: No need to pay $5 if you have a National Park Pass, just display on your dash


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: I agree with doing this in 2 pitches.

With a 70M rope I set up my 1 belay after the wide crack ends on a good ledge. I believe I used a #3 and a #2 C4 + something else for belay, but many options up top. You don't need a #4 or anything wider for this route. Plenty of small gear for the mid section of this route. Midway up is a fix piton next to the wide crack. I traversed left right before that piton and didnt even clip it. I also didn't see the traversed unitl I saw a small c... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Hospital Corner (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route, one of the best 5.10s I've done.

I did this route 7/14/15, the route gets sun around 2pm. I rapped with the 70M and only had a few feet to spare from pitch 2 anchors to the bolted anchors for pitch 1. You can possibly get away with a 60 with a little bit of downclimbing but I'd be very very carefuly. I did see anchors on the right you can possible rap to with a 60meter like what the comment above said.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: just got back staying in the campgrounds. Fees increased to $26/night. I remember paying cheaper last year. Crazy how much it cost to sleep on the dirt nowadays


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Puppy Dome : Battle of the Bulge (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Not R rated like supertopo book suggest. Agree with Vit regarding first 20 ft. protects really well with TCUs. My first piece was a red TCU that was actually hard to get out on the rappel. 2nd piece was an orange TCU then after are finger to hand size placements.

I think a 5.8 leader doesn't need to think twice about this route. Good pin scars for holds and good feet while placing gear down low. Crux is at top pulling pass a bulge. No need to use knees, use that hand and toe jam.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The Alcove : ... : Power Windows (V6-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments:



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