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Rock Climbing Photo: Half dome Cables


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Jan Tarculas

Point Rank: # 847
Total Points: 957
Last Year: 104
Last 30 Days: 55
24 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1356 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 138 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 194 | Posts 491 | Stars 297 | Ratings 228
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Popular Mechanics (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: Felt easier than Ace of Spades. They share both the same crux down low, but while PM gets easier up high, Ace of Spades still has a 5.8/5.9 move above (unless I climbed AOS completely wrong).

Gear BETA: nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot need. Need tiny gear to protect crux


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Ace of Spades (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: I agree with comment above. They both share the same crux down low, while Popular mechanics get drastically easier up high, you still pull some good moves on the twin cracks on Ace of Spades


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hammered (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Agree with John Wilder's comment. Cleaning 2nd draw after the ledge above is easily reachable after you clip 3rd bolt.

Fun route. Go do it


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: One of the must do's in Owens. Probably one of the best 5.11 face climbs I've done. Go do it


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Bone Up (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Accident on 10/15/16 on this route. Saw a pretty big guy pull off a Huge chunk of rock (think watermelon size) before the roof. It came straight down to the belayer, she got pulled in while he fell after pulling the rock off. Luckily it miss her head, but it did totally smash her right foot. I was first on scene with other climbers around helping to get her out using the liter near the bathrooms.

Stay safe


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Spinal Fracture (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: 8 bolts on the route. 1st bolt pretty high up but easy to get to


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Gimpenator (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: climbs like a trad route with a jam here and there


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Notorious B.E.G., The (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Crux felt really height dependent for me. I'm right around 5'6. Sadly I had to cheat my way up to pass the crux


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Flame Thrower (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Must do route. I need to go back and get the RP


Location: Midwest : The Devils Lake top rope cl... : Post : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: what the FFFFFFFFFFF


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: do you still have this photo in high resolution? I want to print this and hang in my living room. A dream location of mine for one of my future birthdays


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (d) Roof Area : Salutations (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: Did this again a few times this week (4 times total). I don't know how I onsighted this thing 6 years ago. Got the RP again on the 4th go on the 2nd day of trying. Probably one of the hardest routes to onsight at the grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: what's the protection like in this spot


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments:
David Collings wrote:
Quick question on camping... it seems the NPS Campgrounds only open in mid July, but climbing is popular in June. Where do climbers stay in June/early July? Can you stay the NPS sites when they are closed? We're not too keen to stay all the way over near Lee Vining on the BLM land.


All the campgrounds in Tuolumne open when highway 120 opens (I believe). I've camped in the Tuolumne Meadows campgrounds listed above end of Ma... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : Crescent Arch (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: I did this with Ben (above comment), he lead and I lead 20 ft after him using majority of his gear and adding some of mind. I did West crack to the left a year ago and felt that was way way easier compared to this route. If West Crack is 5.9 this is no way 5.9+ or 10a from what people suggest


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: very helpful. once on this trail its pretty easy to get to the base. There are cairins on the slabs, kinda veer away from the river/stream when you hit the slabs


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Did this route July 2nd, 2016 (my 31st bday) and heard large groups at a belay up top about bailing because of coming storms. I don't think they ended up bailing but did leave 2 cams and other gear at belay ledge. Describe the belay ledge, cams and gear, including what you used to mark, my favorite beer I will be getting and I'll send you gear back. If no one responds I guess I got new gear for my birthday along with a great top out.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: DO NOT rappel off the 4th pitch. The known crack eating rope killer did just the thing to my rope. It has joined the family of stuck ropes in that crack and I had to cut my 70meter rope. And it couldn't even be someplace near the ends where it couldve made it a little shorter. It had to me near the 45meter mark on one end


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: I belayed slightly different from the positions posted here. If you move slightly higher than what is posted, it creates a little less drag. If you look at this photo, pitch 2 belay/top of pitch 1, move about 10-15 feet higher to the next brush puts you closer to the roof/crux of the route and closer to your climber. Also for pitch 3 belay, you can move higher up next to the orange colored wall to belay.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Only did the first 2 pitches because of time constraint but SUPER CLASSIC! one of the most fun I've had on a short multi-pitch route. Should be on your top 3 list to do here if not doing a big wall.


Andy's gear beta is spot on.

Did this in June and it gets afternoon shade this time of the year.

Rappel options if only doing the 2 pitches...2nd pitch doesn't end at a tree with slings, it ends on a comfortable ledge with a bolted anchor. You can rap straight to the ground from here using 2 60m ... more >>


Location: UT : Lake Powell : Bullfrog Bay Area : Bowns and Long Canyon : The Ring Breaker (5.9) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 24, 2016

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Comments: sick


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Etude (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: as of 4/2/16 there is still 1 pin at top before the crux moves

route can be TRed with a 70M rope using the anchors on top of the 1st pitch, but very close, tie your knots


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Where's Carruthers? (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: I really liked this route. I think I placed a .75 and two #1 c4 at bottom, maybe a #2 also? Rest of he route takes #3s and also placed an older 3.5 c4 and also a #4 up top before the anchors


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Frosty Cone (5.7)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: The anchors on top look brand spanking new with 2 rap rings on each bolt. I would avoid the down climb. Saw another party ahead of us attempt and just resulted going back to up to rap


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: I agree with comments above. Felt harder than Frosty Cone 5.7 to the left and Double Cross. Pumpy route with slick holds. Gear anchor up top, I used a .75, #1 and #2 C4


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