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Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jan Tarculas

Point Rank: # 1,396
Total Points: 488

34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1423 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 147 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 204 | Posts 516 | Stars 312 | Ratings 236
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Climbed this on Monday April 17. Hardest individual move is probably getting to the flake on pitch one, but pitch two is the sustained crux. I don't think I've ever climbed anything so sustained as this (in the 5.10 and under routes). It's pretty Burly. Bringing 2 #4 C4 for pitch two was useful. I used one #4 on pitch 1, but you can do without.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Traitor Horn (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Jensen's jaunt to Traitor Horn in 3 pitches

Solo/scramble most of the 1st pitch of Jensen's jaunt. Belay when it starts to get pretty vertical. I set up 1st pitch anchors immediately left of the false horn. Guide book states to climb below the false horn in between the flakes, which my partner did. It seemed like a reachy move and a bad swing potential for follower. I ended up climbing over the horn, which seemed a lot easier to prevent the swing. Partner... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Fright Night (5.12a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 14, 2017

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Comments: followed my buddy on this, he didn't use ball nuts but he did place 2-3 brass nuts


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Farewell Horizontal (5.10b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: small selections of cams and nuts? Anyone that has done the route have a more specific suggestion so that I don't bring up my standard doubles in 0.4-#3 and nuts on this single pitch route


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Fender Strat (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: Fun warm up. Pretty high 1st bolt, I would stick clip if this is the top of your pay grade


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: would be nice if you guys included topos of the routes you guys have put up


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (c) Left of the Roof : Flexercise (5.10b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Huge chunk of rock came off again this route on 2/4/16. Rock was part of the left hand hold before going to the clipping jugs right below the anchors. Rock was probably about 15lbs and scraped belayer on his shoulder. Few more inches and that probably wouldve ended belayers life. Stay safe and wear helmet folks.

With that hold missing, this route is probably a grade harder.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Lower Right Ski Track (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: Climbed this thing yesterday, the bolt is brand new, looks like ASCA equipment. Thanks!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Pacific Avenue Dorm (5.7)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: Great way to top out after doing Chicken Mechanics


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Chicken Mechanics (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: Lets just say this is Josh 5.9. The roof definitely surprised me, along with the group of climbers that did it right before me (Brad Young and David Harden from the Sonora area and their friend Bill).

I would go back and climb this. It was fun


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : My Friends Treat Me Like a ... (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: When I did this route yesterday, I apparently did an alternative finish. Guide book says climb a gully 5th class then up to a face on the right with some huecos and 2 bolts (per guide book photo). Apparently someone added an extra bolt before you get to the huecos.

The first and only bolt I clipped made for some very airy moves going onto the face. The crux of the climb is clipping and passing this lone bolt then onto some fun face climbing protected by a crack to the top. Use #3 and @POU... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Popular Mechanics (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: Felt easier than Ace of Spades. They share both the same crux down low, but while PM gets easier up high, Ace of Spades still has a 5.8/5.9 move above (unless I climbed AOS completely wrong).

Gear BETA: nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot need. Need tiny gear to protect crux


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Ace of Spades (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: I agree with comment above. They both share the same crux down low, while Popular mechanics get drastically easier up high, you still pull some good moves on the twin cracks on Ace of Spades


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hammered (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Agree with John Wilder's comment. Cleaning 2nd draw after the ledge above is easily reachable after you clip 3rd bolt.

Fun route. Go do it


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: One of the must do's in Owens. Probably one of the best 5.11 face climbs I've done. Go do it


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Bone Up (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Accident on 10/15/16 on this route. Saw a pretty big guy pull off a Huge chunk of rock (think watermelon size) before the roof. It came straight down to the belayer, she got pulled in while he fell after pulling the rock off. Luckily it miss her head, but it did totally smash her right foot. I was first on scene with other climbers around helping to get her out using the liter near the bathrooms.

Stay safe


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Spinal Fracture (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: 8 bolts on the route. 1st bolt pretty high up but easy to get to


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Gimpenator (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: climbs like a trad route with a jam here and there


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Notorious B.E.G., The (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Crux felt really height dependent for me. I'm right around 5'6. Sadly I had to cheat my way up to pass the crux


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Flame Thrower (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Must do route. I need to go back and get the RP


Location: Midwest : The Devils Lake top rope cl... : Post : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: what the FFFFFFFFFFF


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: do you still have this photo in high resolution? I want to print this and hang in my living room. A dream location of mine for one of my future birthdays


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (d) Roof Area : Salutations (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: Did this again a few times this week (4 times total). I don't know how I onsighted this thing 6 years ago. Got the RP again on the 4th go on the 2nd day of trying. Probably one of the hardest routes to onsight at the grade.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: what's the protection like in this spot


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments:
David Collings wrote:
Quick question on camping... it seems the NPS Campgrounds only open in mid July, but climbing is popular in June. Where do climbers stay in June/early July? Can you stay the NPS sites when they are closed? We're not too keen to stay all the way over near Lee Vining on the BLM land.


All the campgrounds in Tuolumne open when highway 120 opens (I believe). I've camped in the Tuolumne Meadows campgrounds listed above end of Ma... more >>


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