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Member Since: Mar 22, 2007
Last Visit: Jan 10, 2017
Contact RKM

Point Rank: # 535
Total Points: 1,445

204 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has RKM been climbing?










Contributions


All 824 | Routes 18 | Areas 5 | Photos 217 | Page Improvements | Comments 105 | Posts 36 | Stars 438 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : American Fork Ice : The Creamsickle (WI5-6)
By: RKM When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Watched this climb for years waiting for it to form (like from 1976). Hiked up a couple of times to find the final pillar unstable. Finally did it with Jason Jones and Brian Smoot around 2000. Pretty hard ice climb and may be a little dangerous. I have not seen it form much since then. The last several years - hardly a hint of the pillar forming.

If I remember right, we could not find any anchors and we chopped a 'bollard' for the rappel. I figured ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: RKM When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: I still laugh out loud every time I see this picture. Really funny!


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters : Photo
By: RKM When: Dec 20, 2016

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Comments: One of the better pictures I've seen of the place that I love. Screen Saver quality!


Location: Annie Smoot : Untitled : Photo
By: RKM When: Dec 20, 2016

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Comments: Annie - simply the BEST! And, a mission to Mongolia - how cool is that!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+) : Photo
By: RKM When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: When I lived in Boulder, I used to love going out to Eldo for the day, and just sit and watch Derek climb up and down and all around with no effort. What a character! What a great guy! What a total inspiration!


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Catwalk (5.8 PG13)
By: RKM When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Again, I think this is a great route. Done it a bunch of times now and always suggest taking friends there. Most enjoy it, realizing it is not like sterile gym climbing. Three stars for sure with the added bonus of having to think about not falling!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ogden : North Ogden : Macabre Wall : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: One of the few routes that Greg spoke reverently about. As in, shezzzzz, I could have taken a huge fall - but had to power through this.

Now, after all the data appears to be in - this could have been one of the hardest climbs in the world at the time it was done. No doubt lead on-sight, all free, no falls, pounding the occasional pin as needed!


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : Borrowdale Valley : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Andy is the man! The man, the myth, the legend! And, so is his dad!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Super Slide (5.9) : Photo
By: RKM When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: How cool is this! Looks like Annie is ropeless.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Dark Horse (5.11 R)
By: RKM When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Just saw in the brand new Granite Guide an odd description of pitch 2 on Dark Horse . . . . the roof is usually passed on the left, but it has been pulled going straight up and over on the chickenhead. Both variations . . . . .

To each their own, but if you are checking this route off in either your mind or the guide book, but missing one of the three distinct crux's of the three pitch route by pussy-footing left around the second of two roofs the route wa... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Been there (exactly), done that (exactly)!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Love it, and why shouldn't we follow in the footsteps of the master? Good enough for Jim? Should be good enough for all who follow, and what was blind faith for him that it would work out is still blind faith for us - that we are up to the challenge.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West : Photo
By: RKM When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: You have no idea just how silly and crazy this 'matching outfit' thing goes with me and Joe! Tried to involve my other son - 37 year old Marshall - but he doesn't even want to be seen with us nuts.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Creekside : The Ramp (5.8)
By: RKM When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: After 48 years of climbing at City of Rocks, I had never been to Creekside to climb. Not sure why not, but now I wonder how I missed this little area. Great shade in the morning, no people around, good clean staging area, a very quick approach from Parking Lot Rock and a couple of fun trad routes.

Both routes are in the 5.8 range, total trad, build an anchor on top and rap from bolts 100' north on This Spuds for You anchors.

Placed more gear on The Ramp - so for some reas... more >>


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Creekside : Double Trouble (5.8)
By: RKM When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: After 48 years of climbing at City of Rocks, I had never been to Creekside to climb. Not sure why not, but now I wonder how I missed this little area. Great shade in the morning, no people around, good clean staging area, a very quick approach from Parking Lot Rock and a couple of fun trad routes.

Both routes are in the 5.8 range, total trad, build an anchor on top and rap from bolts 100' north on This Spuds for You anchors.

Placed more gear on The Ramp - so for some reas... more >>


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : No Pun Intended (5.8)
By: RKM When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Route name is "No Pun Intended". Bolted by Duane and Carolyn Ackerman. Right after the Gallstone was re-opened to climbing.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : I've Got Gall (5.8-)
By: RKM When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Route name is "I've Got Gall". Bolted by Duane and Carolyn Ackerman. Right after the Gallstone was re-opened to climbing.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Singapore (5.11a PG13) : Photo
By: RKM When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: What a great name! Teancum in his anger did got forth . .


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Mescalito (5.9+ A3) : Photo
By: RKM When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Wow, what a historic and cool shot. This was so far ahead of the game in'73.


Location: Tristan Higbee : Misc Pics : Photo
By: RKM When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: I learned from sad experience over almost 50 years of climbing to never go near anything that looks like this thing. I might try to face climb the left side, or maybe layback it from the right, but could never climb it like a squeeze.


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : East Horn : Photo
By: RKM When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: Dude, where did you get this. So rare! I treasure my 1965 Ortenburger Guide.


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton : Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6 AI2-3)
By: RKM When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: In answer to the route submitter's question about this climb being referred to as 'Harry's Highway', it is because 38 year old Harry Frishman, an Exum Guide, fell (and died) from just a few feet from the top in January, 1981.


Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Earth Muffin (5.10c/d) : Photo
By: RKM When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: A pretty hard crimp move over the roof to start, and then miles of great climbing in the mid range.


Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Fruit Filling (5.10c)
By: RKM When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Way cool third pitch of Fruit Pie. If the first/second pitch is crowded (usually is with top ropers because of it's excellent little staging area), you can climb the first pitches of Zinger and move right.

Edit: just found out that there is a new supposed 5.7 route just left of Fruit Pie that goes to the second bolt belay of Fruit Pie - so another alternate way to get up to the start of Fruit Filling.

The third pitch (here listed as a separate route called Fruit Filling... more >>


Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Between Heaven and Earth (5.9)
By: RKM When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: One of the best pitches at Castle Rocks. Crux to me seems at 3/4 height. Some small pinches and crimps. Chalk up!


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