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Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Richard Shore

Richard Shore
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Point Rank: # 74
Total Points: 5,370

389 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 3389 | Routes 158 | Areas 38 | Photos 659 | Page Improvements | Comments 436 | Posts 76 | Stars 1836 | Ratings 186
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor... (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Bolted anchor indicated in the guide and here is GONE. Belay up top with gear and descend via the standard gully scramble down the middle of Fraggle Rock


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Stairway to Kevin (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Every other bolt (2 and 4) is garbage. The crux is convincing yourself they will hold a fall on this sandbagged route. Solid 5.9, maybe harder.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Scattered Remains (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Agree that this felt soft, even for the new 5.10d grade. Pretty fun route, nice and steep. Lots of loose flakes and grainy rock inside the crack lend to TRing over leading though, at least for me. Anchor can be built with a long cord using the big oak tree and a few 3" cams. Helmet for the belayer!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : Freckle Face (5.11a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: One-move thin crux leads to long and steep 5.10 jug haul.

It's a little exposed getting to the anchors if TR-ing - I wouldn't recommend leading it on those rusty Leeper hangers.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Hand Grenade Corridor : Hand Grenade (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Nice obscure route, clean finger-to-hand jams in a shallow RF corner. IMO one of the best of the Stirrup Tank area. Good patina rock on the steep lower half - polished and slick. The difficulties and the rock quality decrease a bit up higher. Shares a bolted rap anchor for another route up top. Single rope rappel to climber's right.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : Heavy Gold (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Very obvious line just right of the main Crocodile Rock, starting on a ledge behind a prominent tree. Excellent gold-colored stone on the left wall.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : Claim Jumper (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: 3/8" bolts; unfortunately matched with rusted and thin Leeper hangers.

Good route (on TR at least)


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : B-Movie (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: A #4 and #5 are recommended for the top section. Good steep crack in a corner, too bad it's not longer. Liebacking around the crux overhang worked well for me.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Crocodile Rock : I Get By With A Little Help... (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Most definitely 5.10, and the best route on the wall. IMO as good or better (longer, too!) than the similarly-graded/styled route "Modern Warfare". Bring a #5 along, too. I placed both of my #4s too early and had to run it out bigtime at the top - which only got wider.

Tape up for this fistfight.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - East Side : The Snatch (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Classy little crack line! Closer to 50' than the 80' listed here. No dreaded OW, maybe only a 5' long section of cups-to-fist with big faceholds alongside. Mostly just steep hands on good rock with a short fingery crux at the bottom.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 8, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, Matt, it does appear to be a recent event. I noticed it within the last year. This is right across from Steve Edwards Project V5 I believe.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : The Middle Kingdom : ... : Toby (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Of the handful of .9's and .10's I did out here in Mongolia, this one felt the hardest because it was the most sustained. 5.9+++.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Foreign Legion (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: A short but demanding lead. Most work I've done for 30' of climbing in awhile. I'd say 5.10+ is fair for the onsight leader. The upper bit can be done in two different ways - crimp all out, campus-style on the left side of the crack, or delicately walk up the offset edge while grabbing the arête out right.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Route 66 (5.4)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Agree with all the sentiments above. Over 100' of splitter hand and fist jamming. 5.4 can be this good!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : The Middle Kingdom : ... : Bighorn Hand Crack (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Nice exercise in straight-in #3 camalot size jamming. Too bad its way the hell out in no-mans land, or it'd have a line on the weekends. The exfoliating, crumbly slab start is a detractor from this otherwise sweet line. Worthy of more than the zero stars given in the Vogel guide.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : Tecate (5.12b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 5, 2013

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Comments: ^^^ agreed. Things start easy enough with big holds, you bust a few moves, and just when the angle eases off and you think it's in the bag here comes the SLAP in the face slabby crux. Single-crystal crimping type nastiness. Blew a hole in my finger after about two goes.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 5, 2013

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Comments: Rock quality, position, movement, variety = 4 stars in my book. After leaving the crack at the start, there is a committing mantle move out onto the exposed arête to clip the first bolt. It's not too hard, but you will not want to mess it up.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Powered by Old English (5.11d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 5, 2013

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Comments: Burly! Nearly every move up until the easy crack is 5.11, with some .11+ mixed in for good measure. I thought the crux was on the thin slab just before the easy crack. Give it a TR burn after doing the .9 or .10a if you can't lead at this grade.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Pixie Rock : Lascivious Conduct (5.11c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Maybe 10' of worthwhile climbing on this route, preceded and followed by forgettable 5.easy. Not very good. The one-move wonder crux, while extremely difficult, is anything but fun. You'll quickly realize why there isn't any chalk above the small horn at the third bolt. Save your tips and do something else.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : Call of the West (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Some fun moves interspersed with easier terrain, but this routes best feature is its length. Almost feels like you get a full pitch of climbing in! Closer to 100' than the 60' listed here.

Bolted rap anchor could use some love. Currently sports two button heads, one with a rusty, paper-thin old Dolt hanger.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : The Bilbo Buttresses : Val De Mello (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: I'll throw down for .10d/11a on this one. Challenging technical slab/face moves around the second bolt.

The anchor was a bit messy - it appears that people were rapping off only one bolt based on the setup I observed. I re-equalized the chain and links on two bolts for the rappel. Note - the rappel is off the backside of the formation.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: This cliff offers some of the best climbing in the campground at the 5.10 and up level, and I never see anybody climbing here.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : Flare Play (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: I did the right option/variation (no bolt), and it felt at least a grade harder than the adjacent Scare Way. You'll want/need gear where your few jams are, so plan accordingly - use the holds first, then place in them.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : Chihuahua (5.10b/c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Nice route, comparable in quality to Silent Scream. You'll need an orange tcu/red alien for the super shallow placement after the first bolt. Engaging moves throughout.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : California Crack (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Gets an "R" rating in the Miramontes guide, but I don't think it is warranted. You can pre-protect the start by scrambling up into the "cave" and threading a 4' sling through a nice hole under the roof. An amazing knee-bar (no hands rest) takes the bite out of the crux and allows for easy gear placement.


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