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Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Richard Shore
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Point Rank: # 74
Total Points: 5,355

387 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 3381 | Routes 158 | Areas 38 | Photos 656 | Page Improvements | Comments 435 | Posts 76 | Stars 1832 | Ratings 186
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This photo is tilted a bit. The route is not quite this steep.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Pivot Point (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Stemming is key to taking the bite out of the lower half of the route. Slick and polished, but excellent rock.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Sunshine Ridge (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: I'd say the climb is closer to 450 feet in length - I stretched the first and last pitches to 45-50M each. Also, this thing is in a bit of disrepair - there are a handful of chopped bolts/stolen hangers, and the bolted belay atop P2 has been chopped (no biggie, gear belay from a solid hand-size crack or go up another 15' and tie off a boulder). The walk-off is to climber's left, and drops you very close to your car. Do not be tempted to descend climber's right - this gully is very loose, steep ... more >>


Location: Alaska : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : West Grapefruit Rocks : First Crag : Fern Hueco (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Best line on the crag.


Location: Alaska : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : West Grapefruit Rocks : First Crag : Peril (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: A very contrived route where one is forced to climb right or left of the bolt line by 6 feet or more at times. The crux itself is really just a one-move wonder, and very reachy (or dynamic for the height deficient folks).


Location: Alaska : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : West Grapefruit Rocks : First Crag : She Broke It (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: The upper half of this route is really fun, but unfortunately suffers from a very forced start on crappy holds. One could climb right or left or the line by just a few feet. And as far as the comment above about "placing to high bolt to make it a more serious lead"... what a bunch of crap. Stick clip the damn bolt, this is sport climbing. A top-down, rap bolted route with a purposely intended runout? Get real, that isn't "serious", that's called contrived boldness. Rant over.

A better line woul... more >>


Location: Alaska : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : East Grapefruit Rocks : Crackland : Iraqy Cracky (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: The rock quality and climbing deteriorate quickly after the first 10 feet, and most of the protection would be worthless anyway. This one is probably best left as a toprope - or - just boulder the fun start and jump off/downclimb after the goods.


Location: Alaska : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : Middle Troll : South Face (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: The first three pitches are very chossy. Expect mud, lichen, moss, and gravel climbing; marginal gear; if you try it too early in the season, snow and ice as well. I found a small axe to be handy for clearing snow and chopping steps. Do yourself a favor and climb the snow gully all the way up to the alternate start, cutting out the first 2.5 pitches.


Location: Alaska : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : The Throne : West Face Cracks (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: The rightmost of three cracks, not described here, is an excellent 5.10b/c corner with a fun roof just before the anchor (3/8" bolt and equalized nut).


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Mostly good 3/8" bolts on the bolt ladder pitch. Some are homemade hangers, some odd (but fat!) bolts; I pushed two of the loose rawls back in their holes which were sticking out ~1". Not much to worry about if leading since there are TONS of bolts, but may be a cause for concern if you solo the route with daisies like I did. Don't pull outward!


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: This route is not listed in the Raptor Closures for 2013, but there are a pair of nesting hawks with 4 eggs in the crack before the second set of bolted anchors as of April. Please stay off the route so as not to disturb them further.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Bring at least three or four #3 camalots. Even with this and three #2s I soloed the first 30 feet before placing a piece to conserve gear. Large hands will love this route. Enduro hands/cups is definitely harder than the supposed crux up top. Move fast!


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : The Trojan Arete (V8+)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: For one of the most visually striking and hardest highballs in SB, we get no description?

Try this one on for size:

Hard moves right from the get-go, 5.12c. Sit-start reportedly goes at 5.13a. Power your way up the proud arête that overhangs the road by 8 feet. Most mortals will take advantage of the single bolt anchor up top for top-roping. Whether you TR or highball, plan on using some traffic control and avoid trying this during rush hour. According to O11, this line has never seen an unre... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain - East : Dog Police (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 20, 2013

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Comments: Simply outstanding! The rap anchor could definitely use some love - bring a knife and a good length of tan or green color cord/webbing to replace the rat's nest on the fixed nuts up there. 2-60M ropes will let you rap past the 4th class approach. We totally expected a nightmare of stuck rope in the oak trees on the starting ledge, but pulled down surprisingly clean and easy.

As far as one or two pitches - you'd need to belay off some microcams/tiny nuts ... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: I agree wholeheartedly with EVERYTHING Bob just said.

I'm not much of a boulderer, but here are some examples of failed epoxy jobs on SB sport climbs - where the reinforced holds broke anyway:

-Beggars Banquet 5.11+, 7 Falls
-Titanium Albatross 5.12, 7 Falls
-To Epoxy or Not to Be 5.13?, Earthwatch Wall
-practically everything at The Amphitheater 5.12-5.14, Playground area.

Notice that there aren't any easy or moderate routes in that list? This plays into the "elitist" idea mentioned above.
... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: First pitch is 1995 Budget Closure 5.11a


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Squash (V3)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: The name I have heard some people call this problem is "Nemesis" - V4 for the straight up finish.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: There appear to be at least 3 bolted (newer?) routes in this area, right off the main trail. None of these are in the guidebooks, and none of them were the "Christmas Tree Arete" which I was looking for. Anybody have beta on these lines?


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Remain in Light (5.10a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I had more fun on this one than the "classic" Treasures of the Sierra Madre next door. Impeccable rock quality on a rather long line. Don't expect much for supplemental gear - a piece or two can be had in the initial crack, then traverse out to the arête and clip the two bolts. A tiny nut/cam can be placed high above the second bolt. Probably not X, but definitely R. Be solid at the grade before attempting this one.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : That's Powell Not Rowell (5.10a PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Some fun steep hand-jamming to be had here. I cleaned a bunch of loose rock out of the lower crack, should be more enjoyable for future parties. The huge block seems solid, right? I yarded on it anyway..

To descend - step across the void to climber's right (wise to stay roped up for this), onto the next summit, then descend one of several gully/chimney systems between the towers.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Tiger Rocks : Fly Away (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: My first time doing an OW inversion move, and probably my last.

If you're wondering "should I lieback, or go upside down?" - consider my epic. I slotted my left foot like a nut in the crack above the lip, and was stuck hanging upside down solely by my left foot/ankle for nearly 10 min. I managed to free myself by lassoing the horn above with a 4' sling and pulling myself to freedom. A #5 camalot would also save you from this fate.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Eva Las Vegas (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Slightly intimidating through the first 3 bolts - you could fall off the arete into space below! Equally cruxy for the follower, too.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Matt Gay (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Looks like Todd added a 5th bolt at the start - no need for the tiny cam mentioned above.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : The Bond Boulders : Diamonds are Forever (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Thought this was the hardest of the three "5.10d's" I did in the Bond Boulders area. Awkward, off-balance moves up the dike.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor... (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Bolted anchor indicated in the guide and here is GONE. Belay up top with gear and descend via the standard gully scramble down the middle of Fraggle Rock


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