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Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Richard Shore
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Point Rank: # 69
Total Points: 5,780

418 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 3502 | Routes 166 | Areas 39 | Photos 723 | Page Improvements | Comments 441 | Posts 76 | Stars 1870 | Ratings 187
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Kings Canyon : North Mountain : Nowhere To Run (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: The last pitch CAN be rappeled with a single 70M, just be careful. With rope stretch we were able to clip the anchors with knotted rope ends at the belay device...

Fabulous route. P3, 5, & 6 are all **** classic.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock Spire
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: ~40 ascents as of April 2017. As few as 88 individuals have stood atop this magnificent summit. 6 routes to the top; only 2 have even been repeated (the ones posted here).


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Enterprise (5.11a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: You absolutely CAN rap with one 70M rope and no down-climbing, contrary to what Matt is saying above. We just did a few weeks ago. Don't attempt the Voyager finish with only one 70M, though - you need two ropes to get off that one.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Banana Hammock (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: FA Myles Moser 2015


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Castle Rocks : The Fin : Silver Lining (5.10a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Gear anchors were pretty good in general; with some searching you can find something better than the "poor anchor in flakes" at the end of P5 on one of the topos. At least the few bolted anchors usually had 3 bad 1/4 inchers, or with gear backups not too far away.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Castle Rocks : The Fin : Silver Lining (5.10a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Probably closer to 1400-1500 feet in length. Nearly every pitch is ~50M long and 5.9. With the exception of the nice corner crack on P7, every pitch is also R or X rated, especially considering the aged hardware. A few marginal pieces of pro and maybe one rusty old 1/4" bolt per pitch. Bring your A-game and a cool head, and enjoy some of the best granite face climbing anywhere. An all-time Sierra classic.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Celtic Cracks (5.10a/b R)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: Can be done in 5 pitches with a 70M. P1+2 to base of corner 65M. P3+4 corner + shamrock 50M. Run out the full 70M on the next three wide crack pitches to the top. We didn't take a #6 but it could be comforting to those not familiar with the style. We soloed Rising Moons on First Creek Slabs to approach - quick and fun. 3:30 from base of RM to top of CC, but over 2 hours to descend all the way from the top back to the base.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Oak Creek Drainages : Sub Peak of Meridian Tower : The Omen (5.11b)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: 3X #4 is excessive. We thought one would probably be sufficient. Skip the #5 too. 2nd FP on P6 is pretty manky and protects the 5.11a move. Great route, worth the walk.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Twin Brothers : West Face (5.0 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Supertopo calls this the South Face and rates it 5.5. Here it is described as the West Face 5.0. Looking at a topographic map, it should most certainly be called the Southwest Face. Not a move of 5th class on the whole thing - downclimbing the rap in Spry Canyon and descending the NW ridge were both harder than the route. Fun scramble


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Willow Hole Area : ... : The Great Unknown (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 22, 2017

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Comments: P2 corner is one of the best of its grade in the park *****. Great summit, worth the walk.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge - East Gully ...
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: Joe, you're missing the point. This behavior will cause access issues for all climbers in the area when the forest service takes notice.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge - East Gully ...
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 13, 2016

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Comments: Via Ferratas on 3rd class terrain.

Retrobolting established routes.

Total removal of cliffside vegetation for squeeze jobs.

Manipulating the landscape in any way they see fit.

For your next installment, I'd like to see some bolt-on belay ledges, ala Potrero Chico Mexico. Or maybe a big catch-net over the tunnel to protect cars from the falling choss when these guys "develop" the second tier above the road.

Access issues, anyone?


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears : Adam's Rib (5.10a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 5, 2016

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Comments: From the AAJ:

Adam’s Rib. Early in 1971 Doug Robinson and I climbed a 1000-foot tower on Wheeler Crest named “The Smokestack.” It proved to be the most continuously difficult free climb of its length that either of us has encountered. Adam’s Rib is an equal-sized tower between the Smokestack and Well’s Peak. It looked just as hard with even fewer cracks. In the spring of this year Doug and Jay Jensen climbed the first three pitches, surprisingly without direct aid. But a steep and bla... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: This is not diorite - but it is a nice piece of white granite with some huge hornblende crystals. Not unlike the "chickenfoot" granite seen up above Tom's Place.

The crystals seem to be telling us something... time for a safety meeting?


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Southern Yosemite : Mt Clark
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: I haven't done the western approach so can't confirm if it's more "relaxed" like I had heard. It certainly has less total elevation gain, but is a fair bit longer. Fit parties with excellent cardio can go C2C from Happy Isles in a big day. I pulled it off in May of this year with many hours of snow travel and post-holing above 9000'. The Happy Isles approach is also underneath the canopy... more >>


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Handycraft (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Maybe 12' tall at most, def not Grade V though :)

Great boulder problem.

See here for scale - mountainproject.com/v/10765192...


Location: California : High Sierra : 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... : Third Recess Peak : North Buttress (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Nice route, decent rock quality and great exposure on the first half. The first 6 pitches are all good, then it gets a bit junky and wanders to the summit. This route is presented in 12 pitches according to the topo in Moynier/Fiddler, with some 5.9 on the upper stretches. I think you'd have to force yourself out onto the arete to find any 5.9 up high. We simulclimbed the last 4-6 pitches in one go - easy 5th class with many options. Descent gully was straightforward and quic... more >>


Location: California : High Sierra : 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... : Picture Peak : NE Buttress (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Really good route; not to be missed. Should be on every Eastside aficionados list. P2 & 3 are easy scramble throw-aways, but the rest of the climb is spectacular. P1, 4, 5, and 7 are great ****, and the long sustained P6 might be the best pitch of climbing I've done in the Sierra (excluding the Incredible Hulk) *****. Bring at least a 60M rope and be ready to simulclimb a few feet on most of the rope stretching pitches. The hands-to-OW P7 is only 100'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : High Sierra Camps : Nightingale Arete (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Super cool-looking feature with some great climbing. We started by 4th-classing up the toe of the buttress and then likely adding a technical pitch to the route. I think the original line starts by traversing in the horizontal vegetated ledges up and left. 5 long pitches led to the ridge, then a long 3rd and 4th class knife-edge ridge (Bartlett "Class 2", ha!) to the upper arete. 3 pitches on the upper arete to summit.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cloud's Rest : My Favorite Things (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Route is unaffected by the 2015 rockfall. Photos of the rockfall show that it fell off to the side of this line. This route follows a narrow spur between two huge gullies which funnel the 4000' face - the only "safe" spot for a climbing route on the wall. All bolted anchors are in great shape. Nice long moderate route on high quality stone.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Kings Canyon : North Dome : North of Eden (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Nice, Brian! Ive always been interested in this one. Now go do the free version of the Tom Frost South Face route and report back.


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Peak 3986 : Milktoast Chimney (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Admins - can we move this route to the newly created Peak 3986 page where it belongs?


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Peak 3986 : Red Baron Tower (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Words from the late, great, Brutus of Wyde:

"Two years after the ascent of the Direct South Face (Lone Pine Peak), Fred returned to the area with Barry Hagen and made the long, arduous approach to Red Baron Tower. After working through the fearsome overhangs and steep dihedrals low on the route, the pair found continuously interesting free climbing to the summit.

For many years, this climb remained unrepeated. The easier approach to longer routes in the drainage doubtless was a factor, as was ... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Global Peak : Chuckwalla 21 (5.9 PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Not sure what all the 3-4hr approach hubbub is about, I guess some people get REALLY lost up there. Took us 1:30 to the base first try following Supertopo beta without any shortcuts. Seemed pretty straightforward with some routefinding skills. Ample time for a swim in the pools afterward AND climb the Schwa on the way out, all well before dark. Fun route, but hardly a classic. Ball nuts didn't seem to provide any additional protection that small stoppers couldn't match.


Location: California : High Sierra : 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... : Ruby Peak : Wide Sargasso Sea (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Jim - Correct me if I'm wrong, but I take it you haven't climbed any of these routes. I think it's pretty poor form to submit all these routes with verbatim descriptions stolen from the Secor book and photos (many of which are incorrect, BTW) that are stolen from Supertopo. I thought the point of MP was to go "beyond the guidebook"


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