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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Dec 8, 2015
Contact Richard M. Wright

Point Rank: # 38
Total Points: 9,603
Last Year: 174
Last 30 Days: 0
72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard M. Wright been climbing?










Richard M. Wright

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Contributions

Contributions


All 2404 | Routes 528 | Areas 143 | Photos 333 | Page Improvements | Comments 513 | Posts 57 | Stars 688 | Ratings 142
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Childhood's End (5.12- R) : Photo
By: Richard M. Wright When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: You never have to love South Platte slab!!!!!!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Oct 30, 2015

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Comments: Anytime a difficult route goes down with good flow and without a huge struggle, I like to think that feels like 5.10. It all comes together so nicely. Even 5.12 or 5.13 can feel like 5.10 if you have it dialed in well. However, that does not change the grade, just the feel.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road
By: Richard M. Wright When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: My recon along Old Stage Road turned up huge potential on some great looking formations. From what I could gather of the general situation, there is a lot of private land mixed up with BLM, national Forest, etc., etc. This could be a terrific area for some crowd-free climbing on frequently excellent granite. However, some of the rock is South Platte crumbly granite interspersed with good, bullet hard rock. Many of the terrific looking crags showed no evidence of climbing. OSR could be a treasure... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Green Chile (5.11b/c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: A lot of the opening difficulty hangs on having a long wing span that can reach left of the first clip while still maintaining solid feet. Once the second bolt is clipped, a quick pop to paired jugs polishes up most of the dificulty. Nice climbing.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Red Hot Chili Peppers (5.12c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: Mark's beta is spot on perfect, but if you just want to reach the anchor, a jog right strips off a number grade.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.13b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Adam. I would love to see the beta that brought it to 5.12. The way I have been trying, and I'm 5'7", it still seems harder than 12+. However, I have been trying to camp out on one the crimpers in mid-crux, a definite no-no for this route. Let's see how consensus shakes down; a lot depends on what is used for reference. I thought the crux was harder than Anarchitect or Black and Tan in Clear Creek, a tad harder than Rainbow Wall, but comparable to The Web in Eldo. On the other ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : A Little Piece of South Dak... : Reds (5.8)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: I thought that Peter Hubbel or someone from that era may have done this route. It's in one of the older guides.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff : Kum & Go (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Has something broken off this route? We jumped on it just before the 12b to the left, and Kum & Go felt much harder this time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Harder than "Higher Calling" at Empire seems a bit of stretch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Consensus is 5.11c for BL, but the numbers are still all over the charts. How does 5.11+ work for consensus?


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) (5.12)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Brutal but cool climbing. The crux uses a nearly useless sloper, but just enough friction to move the feet up. The rest is just relentless hard climbing on essentially perfect rock. Three + years later, and this is still a project.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I think there are two ways to do Gato. Both run 12a, and both are absolutely on the bolt line. The left way may use fewer hand transitions, but come with a strong left shoulder for the burly gaston and strong fingers for a tiny sidepull crimp.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Scantily Trad (5.12)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Job done; 4th and 5th bolts shifted left approximately 18 inches according to the integrity of the rock. The rope does indeed feed nicely to the crack. The added bonus is that clipping 4 and 5 is easier than before. The step into the crack is a tiny bit more airy but not really any cause for concern.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Evan, my first look at Gato involved some dangeliforous stuff, and my plan for a return was to brush around the hands and feet I did use, so long as you are okay with this. The fragment I crushed off seemed pretty unique; there is not a lot more to come off. The friable band is very thin and minor.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Strong Force (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, Evan. It was a good contrast with Gato, but very different cruxes. Strong Force is all upper body, Gato is all fingers. I'm on board with 11d.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Scantily Trad (5.12)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Interesting, Slim. When Patrick and jumped on it, I had a similar thought, perhaps a foot, perhaps less. The last bolt was placed with the idea of clipping off the incut, but this might still work with the bolt a foot to the left. I'll do it. How far are you thinking?


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: First impression: very nice route on excellent stone. The crux comes after the second clip and starts to ease up with hands on a good horizontal edge above and left of the second clip. I found myself using several excellent sidepulls right of the bolt line that were not brushed at all, so the intent appears to have to have been to keep more to the left. The sidepulls seemed more user friendly to my fingers. Also, a friable section of blackish rock was broken off standing above the second clip. T... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Slim. Unexpectedly, Dumont can produce some pretty nice rock, well-featured and solid. I didn't know it when this route went in, but Diana Rogers had her eye on it as well with exactly the same idea in mind.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.13b)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Terrific. Good for you! I've been able to dog through the dyno using the crispy edge under the bulge but never reach the incut in one continuous move. My own assessment was close to but a tad harder than The Web in Eldo, largely for the footless crux. I was thinking 13c, but I can certainly live with 13b. I think you just knocked Mill Creek into a new age. I'm absolutely thrilled.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: Evan, if you are feeling strong, checkout The Seeker (Sadhaka Yogi) on the Dome. The rock and the movement turned out to be terrific.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: Cool. Nice addition. I have run a TR on a parallel line to the right of EGM and behind the tree that could either start off The Strike or not. The rock is just as bullet as EGM and the line is really logical and independent.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Bunker
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for getting this site cleaned up. When I first posted it on climbingboulder.com (as Uber-Lapland via MF), it was after speaking with a very strong Mike Frieschlag (sp?) and then checking out the crag with various partners. Where the equipper appears to be unknown, it almost certainly can be traced to him. At the time (mid '90s), there were half a dozen routes bolted, but as Mike indicated, none had been red-pointed except for the 5.11s on the left. I know a lot of strong climbers that hav... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Braneworld (5.11a)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: Braneworld has cleaned up nicely and climbs well. Some tightly adherent crustose lichen remains on the last several feet that did not pose a climbing problem at all. It might be slippery if wet from the rain however.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Dougald. It was nice to see you and Inga up there. It must be quite a bit out of your way. I have up-dated the grading to come more in line with the four of us. When Patrick and I jumped on the middle one, it still seemed 5.11d/5.12a, but by then the wall was taking a direct solar hit that made things feel a bit greasy, so I'd take the grade to be +/- close either way.

Here is a neat post-script note: I was up here on a cleaning day when the rain closed in with a long, slow drizzle. ... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Randall Force (5.11b/c)
By: Richard M. Wright When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Beta note: it was very nice to tape at least the middle two fingers of the left hand. They slide into a very sharp crack that can really dig into the skin.


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