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Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2848 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 103 | Page Improvements | Comments 79 | Posts 2662 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 20, 2017

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Comments: This is Skytop, not the Trapps


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Enclosure > Enclosure Ice Couloir (5.6 AI3)
By: rgold When: Oct 12, 2017

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Comments: I think the Enclosure Couloir is the right arm of the "V" in the photo, not the left arm...


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > Middle Earth (5.6)
By: rgold When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: Just to be clear, bolts were added to P1 and removed from P2 and the top. The removals were because of the obvious dangers described by Mike. Climbers who top out should walk 400 feet North to the Arrow bolts.

The belay anchor opportunities at the top of the current P2 on the GT ledge are poor, a rotting stump being the most obvious possibility, with some rather small trees rather far to either side. I think that the best way to do ME to the top is to continue past the bolts on current P1, up... more >>


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > rgold > Climbing Pictures > Photo
By: rgold When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: I think the route in question went left and up---going right was easier. (But the shot is about 55 years old at this point and memory cannot be relied on.)


Location: South Dakota > Custer State Park > Tenpins/Switchbacks > King Pin > Laptad-Prince route (5.9)
By: rgold When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: My memory on this is hazy but I don't recall any bolts either, and I agree that five bolts was nowhere near something the Laptad would have done at the time with a hammer and hand drill. Offhand, I can't think of a route in the Needles in those days that had more than two bolts (e.g. Hairy Pin had two).


Location: Connecticut > CT Bouldering > West Rock State Park > God's Country > Patience Boulder > Patience (V1)
By: rgold When: Jan 30, 2017

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Comments: "Climb up and left to a crux topout in the middle of the boulder.."

Sure looks up and right in the picture.


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... > Grand Central (5.9)
By: rgold When: Jan 27, 2017

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Comments: Does anyone ever head right at the top of the p.1 corner instead of left?

Steve Wunsch and I did that many years ago. After a short traverse right, you climb a steep wall, angling back left a touch, and join GC at the point where the usual route traverses back around to the face from the left. We called the variation Penn Station. The climbing is quite good, around 5.10b I think.


Location: Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Here's another shot of those shoes:




Location: Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: They are climbing shoes called Solda's after Gino Solda, an Italian climber with notable routes in the Dolomites. Solda was friendly with Hans Kraus and Kraus got the only climbing gear store in NYC at the time, Camp and Trail, to import Solda's. Lots of New York climbers wore them for a while until the next fashion hit town.

Nowadays we'd call them approach shoes with non-sticky rubber.


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the Arch > Jean (5.9+)
By: rgold When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Jean is left of Sixish, not right of Sixish as the current location text says.


Location: New York > The Gunks > Millbrook > Cruise Control (5.9)
By: rgold When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: P1: Do not "traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner," you'd be missing an essential part of what makes the pitch great. The route steps left and goes directly over the roof. The climber in the photo is getting ready to do this.

And yes, very small cams (or ballnuts) can give you some higher protection as you begin the crux section below the roof. Whether protection obtained via very small cams should ever be called "G" is ... more >>


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) > Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: rgold When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: I don't know about the "pointy overhang" either. After the crux moves past the thin flake, I stepped right and then climbed more or less straight up to the belay ledge, with little if any protection. Definitely R, maybe X---I'm not sure how big the runout was or what is lurking below to collide with. But the moves above the crux flake were nowhere near 5.8. It's a little hard to be objective when you are near soloing, but I'd say somewhere in the 5.4--5.6 range, but... more >>


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) > Fat and Weak (5.7)
By: rgold When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: I've done p1 a few times. I think it is 5.7.


Location: New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks Region > Mt Colden > California Flake (5.9+ PG13) > Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: Izzat big piece needed for this route?


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Cloud Tower > ... > Photo
By: rgold When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: I've done it both ways. The crack is definitely better and more interesting climbing. Maybe bring a large cam for it (#4 Camalot? I didn't have one).


Location: South Dakota > Custer State Park > Sylvan Lake > Outlets > Outer Outlet > Conn Diagonal (5.7)
By: rgold When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments:
Seth Hogan wrote:
Most of the classics, if they were in Yosemite, would be downgraded, imo.


I've done lots of the classic Needles climbs and quite a bit in Yosemite and Tuolumne and would say that when the styles are comparable (which they often are not), the Needles grades are either equivalent or more severe. Most of the original classic grades were supplied by Yosemite climbers who were pretty well-known for sandbagging their gradings. It is true that some of those original grades... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Pine Creek Canyon > Mescalito > Dark Shadows (Full) (5.8)
By: rgold When: Jan 14, 2016

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Comments: I hate getting lost on the approach and wasting time... and I did. So here's something to save you time.

GPS!

wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id...


That track, as displayed, is way off. It crosses the flanks of Bridge Mountain half-way up the walls and ends up on some summit on the South Flank of Bridge Mountain.


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... > Alphonse (5.8) > Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: I don't get significant rope drag doing it in a single pitch with doubles. Right-hand rope all the way up the corner and half-way or so along the traverse; double-length sling on the last piece. This may be the key, because the rope still has to run over a big overhang. Then left-hand rope for the part from the hanging belay up over the crux, and then the right-hand rope again after traversing right after the crux.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Pedestal Buttress > Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: rgold When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Doug, I have no doubt Pete led it, but I led it before he even arrived at Devil's Lake. As I said above, Gill, Slinger, and Wiegand were more than capable and I don't know about them.


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > k. The Slime Wall > Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: rgold When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Way BITD, a "suff" was a big-wall aid climb (Yes, "suff" for "suffering"). Simple Suff was originally aided, but it falls rather short of being a big wall and the aid was easy, hence the "simple." One of the first ascenders, Ants Leemets, made the fifth ascent of the Nose with Dick Williams and Dave Dornan in 1966, four years after Simple Suff.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Pedestal Buttress > Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: rgold When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: I guess it is possible that I did the first lead; I lead it in the early sixties. There were other climbers around who could easily have done it before me; John Gill, Dave Slinger, and Roger Wiegand are three that I know of. And soon after Pete Cleveland and Jim and Dave Erickson showed up, at which point it was a walk in the park.

The first time I tried it---I think that was '62---my foot skidded off something and I popped off, pulling a piton (this was before nuts) before being caught on a p... more >>


Location: South Dakota > Custer State Park > Sylvan Lake > Outlets > Outer Outlet > West Buttress (5.8)
By: rgold When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Picture from the second ascent posted.


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's > Midnight Cowboy (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: First ascent Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968. (I "discovered" the line and led pitches 1 and 2 so don't deserve to be left entirely off the FA credits!) thanks - added to route info - JSH

I don't know if new micro gear has improved the situation significantly, but if not the first pitch is more like R than PG-13, and as usual for Gunks 9+'s, it might be 10a. Pitch 2 had a really old pin down and left that might have indicated an aid ascent earlier.


Location: South Dakota > Custer State Park > Cathedral Spires > Spire Six > Empire State Building (5.10)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: First ascent of the Wavy Crack route August 7, 1964 Mark and Beverly Powell and Bob Kamps. Not "circa 1968" as currently noted in the description.

In August 1967 I did an independent route on the face to the right of the Wavy Crack. My belayer didn't follow; I don't remember why now, but I think the sun was setting. Back then the Wavy Crack was 5.9 and my route seemed a bit easier, so we called it 5.8. Now that the Wavy Crack is 5.10, it is possible that my route might seem undergraded.


Location: New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champlain Region > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face > The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Hmm. Perhaps worth noting that when Ivan and I did the route, nuts were all we had, and nothing as big as those recommended cams. Of course, there was no bolt in the offwidth either.

I protected the exit from what now seems to be called the Houdini Slot by climbing up into it, reaching around to the outside, and placing a nut in the crack in the dihedral. Normally, this would be a totally blind placement but in this case I could observe what I was doing from "inside" the crack because of my ... more >>


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