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Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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rgold
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 2231 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 90 | Page Improvements | Comments 84 | Posts 2053 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, theuia...

UIAA test set-up for locking belay devices, theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_f...

Forums : Climbing Gear Discussion : ... : Post

Jan 2, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Needles Cathedral Spires & Picket Fence.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Needles Switchbacks & Tenpins map.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Needles Outlets map.

Needles Outlets map.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Needle's Eye map detail.

Needle's Eye map detail.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left. The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left. The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the origi

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Oct 29, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Forums : Community Forum : ... : Post

Aug 26, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Pulley Effect

Pulley Effect

Forums : Trad Climbing : ... : Post

Dec 8, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left pictu...

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

NY : The Gunks : ... : Larsen's Problem (V1)

Feb 9, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up. Photo by Myriam Bouchard

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

Aug 19, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

Feb 26, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the eve...

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye

Feb 16, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location:
By: rgold When: Nov 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Here's another shot of those shoes:




Location:
By: rgold When: Nov 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: They are climbing shoes called Solda's after Gino Solda, an Italian climber with notable routes in the Dolomites. Solda was friendly with Hans Kraus and Kraus got the only climbing gear store in NYC at the time, Camp and Trail, to import Solda's. Lots of New York climbers wore them for a while until the next fashion hit town.

Nowadays we'd call them approach shoes with non-sticky rubber.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Jean (5.9+)
By: rgold When: Aug 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jean is left of Sixish, not right of Sixish as the current location text says.


Location: Fundamentals : Learn the Basics of Rappell...
By: rgold When: Jul 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The advice in the article is decades out of date.

First, the autoblock-on-legloop is a suboptimal method. There are at least two problems:

1. Prying open a legloop buckle. If the leg loop has buckles, then depending on where the autoblock is placed it might or might not pull open a buckle. See blog.alpineinstitute.com/2011/... for bad and good places to clip.

2. Autoblock failure. As alluded to in the article, the length of t... more >>


Location: Fundamentals : Personal Anchor Tethers for...
By: rgold When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You don't adjust PAS-style tethers by unclipping. You put a second carabiner into the primary end carabiner and then clip appropriate loops into that.


Location: Trad Climbing : Build an Anchor in Poor Roc...
By: rgold When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: What is missing here is a discussion about how to use the climbing rope to set up these anchors, which can be done in a way that gives far better load distribution than the in-series solutions.

The two illustrated in-series solutions deliver half of the total load to a single piece of the anchor, and certainly do not deserve to be called "equalized" in any sense. Since the article is about anchors in bad rock, a technique that is supposed to spread the load but ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Cruise Control (5.9)
By: rgold When: Jul 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1: Do not "traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner," you'd be missing an essential part of what makes the pitch great. The route steps left and goes directly over the roof. The climber in the photo is getting ready to do this.

And yes, very small cams (or ballnuts) can give you some higher protection as you begin the crux. Whether protection obtained via very small cams should ever be called &quo... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: rgold When: Jul 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know about the "pointy overhang" either. After the crux moves past the thin flake, I stepped right and then climbed more or less straight up to the belay ledge, with little if any protection. Definitely R, maybe X---I'm not sure how big the runout was or what is lurking below to collide with. But the moves above the crux flake were nowhere near 5.8. It's a little hard to be objective when you ar... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Fat and Weak (5.7)
By: rgold When: Jul 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I've done p1 a few times. I think it is 5.7.


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