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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 27
Total Points: 11,280

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 7204 | Routes 309 | Areas 81 | Approach Trails | Photos 1395 | Page Improvements | Comments 1757 | Posts 1836 | Stars 1262 | Ratings 564
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... > 6.3 - Hole-In-The-Wall > Grand Finale (5.13b V8)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: I see you are still following in my footsteps ;)


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > Devil's Lake Bouldering > South Bluff Bouldering > Messenger Boulder > All Along The Messenger Sho... (V1 PG13)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Yes, climbed it.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > The Others > Devils Staircase > The Dark Angel Buttress > The Dark Angel (5.10- R)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, I didn't like this one much. However, it did have a nice back country feel.
We did it in 3 pitches starting from the bottom of the chute. So the obvious splitter crack/flake was on P2. Thought that was pretty easy, maybe 5.8 at most. The final P3 overhang jam crack was tough though, solid 10a.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > The Others > The Indian Buttress Formati... > Indian Buttress (5.10a)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Did this in two pitches. Fun tips section on P2. Bolted anchors are available but I didn't feel that they were needed.

We rapped twice down the gulley to the climbers right. There's a tree for rap 1 but with a 70m we had to downclimb a little to reach a bolted rap station for rap 2. There's another bolted rap station below that but you can easily down climb to the climbers left to the ground.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (q) Sunkist Face > Question of Balance (5.10c R)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: A fall from the crux would put you on the ground unless you climb further up the crack place a piece high, then downclimb back to the right angle ramp up to the bolt. Alternatively just climb up the left diagonal crack then take a undercling crack to join the route above the bolt. 10a this way and much better protected.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (r) Sideshow Slab > Ours (5.10b)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Shares first two bolt with Showstopper, then goes slightly left to a ledge with two bolt anchor. 2 more bolts on crystal crimps to a final anchor shared with Showstopper. It would be hatd to get off route I think.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (r) Sideshow Slab > Showstopper (5.10a PG13)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: A great line on great rock. In the G+V guide the start is listed at 10b R, no way its more than 5.9, the new G guide has it at 5.9. Same start as Ours.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (r) Sideshow Slab > Sideshow (5.9 R)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: This is the first route located right of Hot Buttered Rump. The G+V book shows this staying right of a right facing dihedral on the second half, that would be pretty contrived. Directly above the 2nd bolt I went stright up into the easy dihedral. Rap anchors are located on the left, exiting the dihedral before it peters out. A 70m will get you to a ledge where you can walk off to the right.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (v) North Face > Obscured by Clouds (5.10d R)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Soft 10d. I got on some perfect white crimps above the roof and just stood up, it's a little run from there to the next bolt. For P2 some small nuts are good for the flake, then I went up and slightly left to clip the last bolt of Shine On. Seemed like the most likely line that way but I'm sure there was no bolt on the FA.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right Side > Iron Cross (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: One pin on P1, it's good, I whipped on it. I also got a solid #000 C3 just above the pin. Technical is right!


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Left Side > Clockwork Orange (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: Short but fun moves on the arete. Bolt anchor on top has some gnar tat, bring some chains if you got some to add or some new tat.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area > Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for joining the discussion Murf, allow me to clarify my statement. I think it would be cool to link Torque Wrench directly to the upper face of Mechanics Route. As I understand it TR simply worked into MR lower down into the easy crack but there's a nice sliver of face that is good climbing. However that face would be very "x" rated and adding a bolt might be worth it. AND it's not a retro bolt because that face isn't the original route! Get it?

Regarding &quo... more >>


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... > The Frigate > Code of the Sea (5.12a)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: The topo line is slightly off in Jay's book. His line comes in from the left but I think it's more straight up.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area > Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, you are right Bob no bolt on mechanics. Fun climbing through that entire section from Torque Wrench to M but very run out like a solo. The bolt hole is still there on M, could use a nice patch someday.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (f) West Face Bulge Routes > Upper Bulge Routes > The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: P1 of this is a little tough and hard to protect, make sure you get a good small nut before getting into the thin crack. P3 has that hard boulder problem but it right on top of a bolt.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area > Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 22, 2016

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Comments: That's a pretty extreme reaction AJ. No room for new bolts anywhere? What's your justification for that rationale?


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area > Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: I will probably never add that bolt, it's just an observation and I wanted to address it hopefully before someone else pops one in. Plenty of great safe climbing all over the mountain and plenty of spots that deserve a replacement bolt before this climb gets one added.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area > Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Yes, it would need to be placed off route of GA and placed to keep the climber away from MR on the left too. Basically straight up the center of that face, maybe 15-20 ft from the third bolt. From there straight up into the R and single bolt of Mechanics.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (b) North Face > Science Friction (5.10a) > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: The first piece in this pic is the 2nd bolt on the route but if taking this start I would skip the first two bolts entirely.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (b) North Face > Science Friction (5.10a)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Half a topo and little info in the Gaines+Vogel book. Gets 10a in the book but I think the initial slab must be harder. The cracks I took to start were 10a though.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area > Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: With a fourth bolt (drilled on lead of course) on the face up high this route could safely be independent and lead directly into Mechanics Route.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (p) Godzilla Face > Godzilla's Return (5.10d)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Maybe a chip broke at the first bolt? I could not figure it out despite climbing two 10d's earlier. I started a bit further left and soloed to the second bolt at about 5.8. I took the "5.9 R" variation which is more like X rated. Did the Toads lip, clipped the bolt, traversed all the way left then back right to the second bolt, pretty bold but good climbing. P3 was ok but had plenty of weak flakes to watch put for. Descended via Rebolting development, 3 raps with a 60.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (g) West Face > West Face - Center (Flintst... > The Quarry (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Some fun face climbing but overall so-so. I took the left 10d finish which I think leans toward 11a.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (g) West Face > West Face - Center (Flintst... > Bedrock (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: Yes, to the first bolt is a little intense. Make sure to traverse left at the second bolt (crux), a little hard to route find on this, a real thinking mans route. There's a thin flake between bolt 10 and 11, don't pull out on it, just crimp on top of it, might blow and change the route.

70m reaches the ground from the anchor.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (g) West Face > West Face - Left Side > Legends of the Fall (5.10b/c)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: Great route but pretty heady to get to that first bolt, the gear below you isn't awesome. I took the 2nd pitch traversing right at the end to finish on the final pitch of Jonah.


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