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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Tradoholic

Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,616
Last Year: 239
Last 30 Days: 13
372 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 6113 | Routes 284 | Areas 80 | Photos 1387 | Page Improvements | Comments 1641 | Posts 971 | Stars 1185 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Grandote (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: How can you comment on quality if you only climbed the first pitch?


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Above Anthrax : Ponyboy (5.12a) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Ponyboy had a mistaken identity as a 5.10 for awhile.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Monte (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: I just checked out the topo in the new book, it's spot on. Wish I saw that before I climbed it!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Monte (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: I did this a bit weird. Started right of El Dorado and placed gear as high as possible to the right, then down climbed back left and then straight up to the first bolt. Two stars for P1.

On p2 I traversed right from the anchor to easy ground. I didn't notice the shiny new bolt straight up. Not a good looking pitch either way. There's not bolted anchors at the end of p2.

For p3 I chose the 5.9 option to the right also not noticing the first bolt I traversed straight right from the bolted anchor... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Devil's Delight (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: P1 is a great 10a with a bolted anchor. P2 has great climbing but the bolts are SHIT! Looks like roofing nails pounded with home made aluminum hangers.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Above Anthrax : Solo Crack (5.5)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I don't think so.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Flashback (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: Hmmmm, seemed not very protectable at the start of the layback arch. I went up about 15ft then traversed across from Open Book skipping the wide part of the layback, seemed like a good call. Then did a wild stemming move to traverse up into Mechanics.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundance (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbed the crack finish, would have been runout without my #000 C3! Sundike is the superior finish.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (e) South Face : Miscalculation (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Sustained? Not really, good rest before the crux. I sewed it up with a purple and red C3. Felt on grade, 10b maybe. A #4 (or was it a #5?) was useful in the first quarter. Interesting succulents in the upper crack!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering
By: Tradoholic When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Jesus AK, way to stick with it on Starfish, you looked like a brick shit house climbing that thing ;)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Finally sent this, yep, used triples in the small stuff. Pretty classic Suicide stuff ;)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (h) Smooth Sole Walls : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : The Fiend (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Way too much faith is needed in your rubber to gain the first bolt.

I think you were off-route Jim. After clipping the second bolt go straight right for 10ft to gain the 3rd.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 01 - Sandstone A... : 1.1 - Old Sandstone : Gargantua (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 24, 2015

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Comments: I double dare anyone to pop that thing outta there!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : Devils Staircase : The Dark Angel Buttress : The Dark Angel (5.10a/b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Looks like an excellent addition!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.3 - Horse Rampart : Via Apia (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Rhoads knows!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (f) Limp Dick : Five Tree (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: I wasn't seeing this at all, does the tree still exist?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (f) Limp Dick : Limp Dick (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: The bolt for the mantle is probably original and looks like it would never hold a fall.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I have twice now bailed off this thing. First because the initial chimney was insecure and second because I ran out of suitable gear 3/4 up. The gear is all there but I swear I could have used triples of .3 to 1 C4. I used a #4 and #5 as well. Everything is flaring and it certainly doesn't inspire confidence in your moves or gear.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Price of Fear (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I think I used magic to do the finish slab.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : The Headless Horseman (5.11+ V4-)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: There's no direct translation V-Scale to YDS. I would imagine the reason is that on TR it feels 5.11+, but way up above pads it's going V6-ish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Alf's Arete (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: How it was done originally aside, this climb is brilliant! There's an old button head next to a newer bolt that should probably get yanked and patched.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Imaginary Voyage Formation : Imaginary Voyage (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorites at Jtree. The starting lay back is a bear!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: We rapped the route almost directly. The gully rap is out of date.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: The pitches have changed over time, my take with a 70m:

-P1 to the chains.
-P2 past the chains to the ledge.
-P3 through the roof past two anchors to a third anchor.
-P4 short pitch to final chains then rap or go up 5.8 pitch.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Mustache Boulder : Midwest Mustache Ride (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: A G Dodge CLASSIC!


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