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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 26 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 27
Total Points: 11,280

408 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 7215 | Routes 309 | Areas 81 | Approach Trails | Photos 1395 | Page Improvements | Comments 1759 | Posts 1842 | Stars 1265 | Ratings 564
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (c) Le Dent Pinnacle > Holiday (5.10a R)
By: Tradiban When: Dec 11, 2017

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Comments: Shares start with Reunion, a small cam or two needed before getting to the first bolt, I also clipped the first bolt of Reunion with a long runner.
Shitty detached flake at the start, don't place behind it.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (v) North Face > The Thin Man (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Dec 11, 2017

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Comments: Tricky start but it soon eases up, really small cams helpful, I put in the red x4 and purple C3.

BTW, this is mislabeled in the Gaines/Vogel guide. The number boxs on the topo should be shifted one space left.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle > Electric Razor (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Dec 11, 2017

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Comments: Good moves, 3rd bolt still pulled out a bit but that's the easiest climbing, some cams needed for 5.9 crack finish.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (g) West Face > West Face - Right Side > The Acrobat (5.11b)
By: Tradiban When: Dec 10, 2017

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Comments: Probably the most funky route in Idy. I think the new "Best" guidebook said this has 5 bolts, there's only 4.
I didn't see this as reachy at all, good flat jugs to get to the ledge after bolt 2.




Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (i) South Face > South Face - Right Side > Faux Pas (5.10c)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 23, 2017

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Comments: Those bolts original Bob?


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (i) South Face > South Face - Right Side > Diddly (5.10a)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: I tried to pound the anchor in but it wouldn't go, a 70 won't reach the ground anyway.

The climbing is good on this but the crux bolt is sticking out a bit and the abandoned bolt to the left has no hanger on it. Also I thought the line was a bit right of the last two bolts, had to lean over to clip them.

A couple small cams work for the anchor.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (i) South Face > South Face - Right Side > Baby's Butt (5.5 R)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: I don't think there was one piece of pro on this but the climbing was good.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (i) South Face > South Face - Right Side > Climb with no Beginning (5.6)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: This one is a waste of time.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (e) South Face > 10b or not 10b (5.10b)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: This route is all right in my book.

Fourth bolt looked like it was attempted to be pulled and it wouldn't come, brand new bolt right next to it. Third bolt was a loose button head that would also deserve replacement.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (h) Smooth Sole Walls > Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... > Pink Royd (5.10d R)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: Book topo is off on this one. The variation coming in from the left would clip one bolt then go directly to the crux bolt, not to the proper 1st bolt as shown. There was a third bolt at the 5.9 run out but it looks like the hanger broke off, might be able to cinch it with a nut. A better finish would be going left into Ultimatum.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (h) Smooth Sole Walls > Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... > Howard's Fifty Footer (5.10b R)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: First bolt is kinda too far left, there's a great stance just right of it. Book shows this traversing in from the right a little bit.

Fun patina past the other two bolts though.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right Side > Gates of Delirium (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: Did the second pitch today, good moves but it's a little flaky and the bolts are junk. There's two extra drilling stances where new bolts would go nicely. So with four new bolts this would be a good pitch and could be considered separate as it's easily accessible on the ledge. I went right to a nice ledge belay and then up a nice 5.8 layback crack.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (b) North Face
By: Tradiban When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: The boulder in question is gone, probably what got that guy in September :(


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle > Compound Eyes (5.11)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 29, 2017

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Comments: Any idea how this is supposed to finish?


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Left Side > Caliente (5.12c)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 28, 2017

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Comments: There's an 11d direct start to this, put up in 2012 according to the new guide book. Has anyone ever tried going left at the Crux? Looks easier.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle > Unknown (5.12+)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 28, 2017

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Comments: I would definitely be interested in knowing how this route is supposed to climb.

Edit: This is an undone project but is intended to go straight up.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle > Andy Dude (5.10c)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 28, 2017

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Comments: Little funky to start, good hand to good fists higher up.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... > Cleopatra's Needle > Photo
By: Tradiban When: Oct 19, 2017

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Comments: Great pic!


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Sorcerer > Thin Ice (5.10b)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 16, 2017

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Comments: Am I confused about the definition of "sustained"? Great feet all over P1 and only one tight hands spot that I thought was 10b. P2 was strenuous, I was able to go straight in and lock my shoulders to the chimney but I've got long arms and skinny shoulders. For the cragging type (aka sport climbers) I would recommend rapping after P1.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Charlatan > Fancy Free (5.10)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 16, 2017

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Comments: Never saw the death block on P1. P1 is pretty good but P2 is the highlight, tight hands to perfect finger locks for me.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Witch > Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 16, 2017

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Comments: As described here we linked P1 and 2 to the big belay ledge with a 70m, barely. I took doubles of cams to #3 and did a bit of walking them as I went. The next pitch off the ledge is the $.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (v) North Face > Decapitation (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 10, 2017

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Comments: supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3...

Enjoy!


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (n) Rebolting Face > Season's End (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: First half is pretty easy 10 but that 25ft of Crux is friggin desperate!


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (h) Smooth Sole Walls > Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... > Battle of the Bulge (5.11a R)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: The start with The Feind is a little run but you can start in the dihedral to the left too with a piece of gear or two. Crux is definitely between bolt two and three, I thought clipping bolt three was tough. Damn fun climb.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (c) Le Dent Pinnacle > Steal Your Face (5.12b)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 24, 2017

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Comments: This must start standing on the tree?


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