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Member Since: Jan 9, 2008
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Ray Lovestead

Point Rank: # 6,016
Total Points: 57

10 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ray Lovestead been climbing?










Contributions


All 770 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 34 | Posts 251 | Stars 256 | Ratings 206
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes
By: Ray Lovestead When: Apr 12, 2017

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Comments: Anyone interested in doing "saab" or "datsun" needs to make sure they hike to the far right side before heading up. There is no path up the left side. Just a mess of rocks and sand.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Incredible Butt Crack (5.12-)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: Not sure how you can do this without a VG9 or even VG12. I couldn't reach up deep enough to place any #6s once clear of the start. Be careful.. a swing out on lead could be messy.

I need someone out there to teach me how to climb this. I had no idea what to do and had to back off.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : De-Birth (5.10)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: Super good route - deserves more stars. Has a very interesting top out on the pillar.

Bring some blue big bros, or just walk a tipped VG9 through the middle section.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Decreation (5.12)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: Can be easily T/R'd by moving your rope from the top of Debirth. The bottom would be quite scary without some super big gear. Well done Pat.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Brother From Another Planet (5.12-) : Photo
By: Ray Lovestead When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: Ah.. You do look like a young Luebben in that photo (to me anyways). Also, I know understand the photo - in the photo that back wall kind of looks like it is directly beneath your feet like a block.

And no... that is definitely not the "easy section".. haha..


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Dentist Chair (5.11+)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: What a masterpiece. This thing is LOOONG. Bring 2 ropes and a will to succeed.

The deathblock is still there and spices up the route. Make sure your belayer is aware of it as you climb to it so they can move over.

My (new) favorite OW in IC.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: Add another 5 and a 6 to your rack if you think you'll 'finish' the top by aiding it... Not putting enough gear in is a real a-hole move for your second to clean.

BTW: down cleaning is a complete pain in the ass and take about as much effort as the climb itself.

(big feet really don't help. I couldn't get much of my feet in at the 'flip'. Freaking h... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Offwidth City : Done Lubin' (5.11)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Whoa, this is a big girl indeed.

Very important gear beta for the second pitch. Save your blue big bros for the 'top'. VG9s do not work for the 'last' 20 feet or so. If you fell, you'd fall onto tipped out VG9s and big bros...

Also, I say 'top' because as you crest what looks like the end, you realize that you have a lot longer to go. You have to g... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Offwidth City : The Mayor (5.11d)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: More gear beta: Bring a 0.5 and 0.75. I only used one big bro, but really just walked 4 #3s up and left them as I went.

Also, bring an extra set of lungs.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Bloodletting (5.11+)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: There is a single bolt on the top of this now, and praise baby Jesus it is there. I would be terrified to climb down the back side without first having climbed up and down a couple times.

It continues to rain down tiny pebbles as it 'cleans up'. Awesome climb.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground : Galactus (5.11b)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: This climb is super bad ass and should not be missed. Don't think twice about top roping it. Just hike up to the top to drop a line. Very safe TR and lots of fun!

Horizontal chicken winging. What could be better?


Location: Australia : Tasmania : Tasman Peninsula : Cape Raoul : Photo
By: Ray Lovestead When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Holy hell that is amazing.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Worm Drive : Worm Drive (5.11)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Spoiler Alert! Here is the key beta: Pull really f$%king hard, grunt a lot, repeat.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Hard to Believe (5.10c/d)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: This route is spectacular. Incredibly beautiful and very difficult, perfect.

You could do a fantastic tour by climbing Penetration and traversing right to the base of this route. Or you can come up from a chimney below from the south. Looks like someone put a large log across the 'leap of faith,' and it is completely safe to go that way.

I think this is currently my favorite route at the Voo.

(Gear beta): lots of 3, 4, 5s. Doesn't ne... more >>


Location: Matt Stroebel : precious : Photo
By: Ray Lovestead When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Holy Smokes! Sméagol uses BD cams?

How do you know it isn't Gollum?


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground : Galactus (5.11b) : Photo
By: Ray Lovestead When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: She's the world's best OW climbing, dingleberry...and my hero.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Brother From Another Planet (5.12-) : Photo
By: Ray Lovestead When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Not sure he (this is THE Luebben right?) is on Brother From Another Planet. Unless that huge block under his feet fell off. And, I really doubt he'd fall there, that section is the 'easy' section.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Umph Slot (5.10+)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Here we go again. Matt and I, once again, hanging out at the Umph. We are in fact starting to believe we are too, ahem, 'thick'. Pushes us way outside too early. This time I was able to climb the top 2/3 clean. That bottom section is brutal.

I'm going to talk to my doctor about having a few ribs removed.

Also, next time I climb this thing I'm going to tape a $100 bill in the back of the crack as a prize to whoever gets there first.


Location: General Climbing : GIMPS GONE WILD!! Double yo... : Post : Photo
By: Ray Lovestead When: Feb 7, 2016

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Comments: GTFO! I have two handed friends who I couldn't pay to climb at the Voo and here you are leading. Good on you.


Location: South Dakota : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Hungry Homer Boulder : save me jebus (V-easy) : Photo
By: Ray Lovestead When: Jan 16, 2016

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Comments: Gollum climbs V-easy?!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : A Little More Masochism (5.10)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Oh and sorry about the shit job with my first attempt on the first anchor bolt. I f&*^'d up the bolt and had to pull it and make a new hole.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Mean Black Dog (5.12)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: If you go up to the top of the block on the next route to the right (with a little OW grunt), you can TR this thing. My buddy Lee thought solid 12 to 12+. whew.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : I&I (5.10-)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: This thing is begging to get a second pitch in. Looks like #6 and big bros and steep!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Finless Brown (5.10+)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: GEAR BETA!!

The gear description of this route is dangerously wrong. Those are 2x old school #5s in the description AND a you need a big bro. You will deck if you fall in the large middle section unless you have a big bro. I had to stop mid-route, hang on for dear life, and drop a line in order to bring mine up.

This is my gear beta (new sizes):

2x #3s for the start, 2x #5s, #4 big bro (blue), 2x #6. Then maybe a 5 or 4 above when you finally get to make ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Four-Wheel Low (5.10)
By: Ray Lovestead When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: I would add that if you have large knees (and even calves), you will have a HELL of a time getting the top crux. I was doing a bizarre hand stack with zero feet and humping the hands up. I wasn't able to get a knee or even a calf in until I was nearly at the chains. 5.11 for me.


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