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Member Since: May 18, 2009
Last Visit: Dec 20, 2016
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Point Rank: # 15,774
Total Points: 5

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has anarchic utopia been climbing?










Contributions


All 254 | Routes | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 158 | Stars 82 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Dungeon
By: anarchic utopia When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Hike down The Torture Chamber to a chain-link fence. Turn to your left (North) and cross the dirt road at the curve, aiming for the power line pole. The Dungeon is in the trees, under the pole.


Location: Colorado : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Licorice Stick (5.9)
By: anarchic utopia When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: If I was planning on leading it, I'd want a bouldering pad available. I'd say a hold broke off somewhere about 8 feet up in the giant hole. No real pro for maybe 10-12 feet, and a sketchy start make it a difficult lead. The rest of the route is much easier.


Location: Colorado : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Caramel Corner (5.5)
By: anarchic utopia When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: Used the following pro: BD #2 and #4. Having a #4 is super nice.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock
By: anarchic utopia When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: Greyrock is still closed. Spoke with FS today. Soil impact studies going on or something.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4)
By: anarchic utopia When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: Congrats on finding that tool!


Location: Colorado : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Haus Rock : Five Nine (5.8)
By: anarchic utopia When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: It seemed like there is some groundfall potential when clipping the third bolt on insecure moves. The overhang is way fun to pull. It's probably safer to TR this route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : MacCavity (5.9+)
By: anarchic utopia When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: +1 that 2 ropes are not necessary as AC said. The obvious gully to the climber's right is an easy downclimb.


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Protein Supplement (5.10-)
By: anarchic utopia When: Nov 28, 2010

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Comments: I used a Yellow TCU and a .5 C4 for the first 30ish feet. Halfway up there's a place where a Blue TCU will protect, and I use that word loosely, a run out section just above the big ledge, and before pulling over the bulge.


Location: Colorado : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Original Route (5.5)
By: anarchic utopia When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: Each pitch is relatively short. The first was 40m and the second 30m and the third maybe 35m. Solid bolt anchors that look new. Pitch 3 is reminiscent of the Flatirons. Very solid belay at the top of P3. Look for the ramp that moves up and right from the east side of the face for the start. Start at what looks like a ledge from the ground but is really a sloping feature.