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Member Since: Jul 10, 2009
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact rafael

Point Rank: # 8,377
Total Points: 30

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has rafael been climbing?










Contributions


All 74 | Routes | Areas 2 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 34 | Stars 11 | Ratings 10

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: rafael When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Sopping wet on the first pitch lieback, including the 5.8 section, and the third pitch too. Straight creeks. The patch of foot polished granite while pulling the jug out of the lieback is even more slippery with wet shoes...


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9+)
By: rafael When: Mar 10, 2017

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Comments: I kept with the tradition and rated it 5.9+ because thats a nice and scary rating, everyone knows (or will find out the hard way) that 5.9+ means hard as all fckff.
If gingerbread (just to climbers left) is a 5.7, this one is 5.9 ha!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Firewater Chimney (5.10b)
By: rafael When: Mar 9, 2017

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Comments: please reconsider chalk use on this climb, its in the wilderness, and the white chalk really mars the beauty of the red streaks. Its sad to hike hours to the middle of nowhere and see the evidence of excessive chalking on such a beautiful piece of rock... I have sweaty hands, and I know the struggle, but I managed to keep the chalk to a minimum, so you can too!

Also, the third bolt is in a bad place, if you are under 5'9" its going to be a pain to clip. I can... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : Wangerbanger (5.11c)
By: rafael When: Mar 9, 2017

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Comments: I could barely get a thin hands even just above the pod, so I had to ringlock all the way to the second pod, and my hands are maybe yellow C4. Thin hands pumpfest to the top? HA! My partner has smaller hands and managed to thin hands most of the part I had to ringlock, YMMV
The topout is hard, but not that bad, I found the desperate move into the second pod harder, but I imagine the difference between those moves is finger size dependent.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: rafael When: Mar 9, 2017

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Comments: seemed no harder than double cross, but perhaps more sustained?


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: rafael When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: Make sure you watch the sky! I've been up twice and both times frozen water fell in the afternoon. The second time I went up, the 20% chance of T-showers turned into 100% chance of hail and thunder. Glad I was already on the descent.

No need of bigger cams, yeah theres lots of places to place them, but there are plenty of spots to slot nuts and hexes too.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : East Side : Discovery Wall : ... : Photo
By: rafael When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: thats not where the bolts are, the bolts are to the left of the crack, most of the route doesnt follow the crack at all in fact


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : Waterfall Cliff : The Falls (5.10 R)
By: rafael When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: the direct start is certainly harder than 5.10a... At least 5.10d... prob 5.11a for a shorter person. How is this a 5.10a, its way way way way harder than degeneration, also rated somewhat bizarrely a 5.10a, and they are like 100 feet apart. WTF


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : Waterfall Cliff : Degeneration (5.9+)
By: rafael When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: 5.9+? no way, I give it 5.6 maaaaaybe 5.7. The crack is all really low angle, def 5.6 except the one lieback blulge thingie, which may or may not be 5.7, its super juggy in that section, so im feeling 5.6. Go try a 5.7 in yosemite then see if this thing feels even close to that hard...


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.7)
By: rafael When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: The fixed piton on pitch one is not there anymore, and the pitch gets more polished every year. Dont end up too close to nutcracker around pitch four, this is the top of fecophilia, I decided to climb what looked to be a rarely climbed line, and got into some really runout sections (prob 5.7) with flaring cracks. I bet offset cams would work fine, but who carries those on free routes.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Jellyroll Arch (5.8)
By: rafael When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: not runout if you have small cams. There were a couple fixed nuts to clip, but I had a hard time getting nuts in the arch, since the crack faces downwards.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron
By: rafael When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: 3/12/11 rockfall on the grack and marginal. I was rapping down between second and third rappel anchors from the top of Marginal and the Grack, rock fell on the ledge at the top of these climbs, luckily the ledge redirected the rock away from my party, but if someone was on the Grack or at the top they would have been injured or dead. This a supposedly 'safer' part of the Apron, but still dangerous. Scary.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : East Side : Discovery Wall : Portent (5.6 R)
By: rafael When: Jan 9, 2010

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Comments: EDIT: a few years ago a key hold on the start busted loose, now I think it goes at 5.8 about 3 feet off the deck
I think it is 5.6, the start is not protected, but that doesnt make it harder. The pinnacles rock is weak though.


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