Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: at the belay on the super classic rewritten

Member Since: Jan 21, 2009
Last Visit: May 17, 2016
Contact proto

Point Rank: # 6,173
Total Points: 88
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has proto been climbing?


All 164 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts 26 | Stars 64 | Ratings 58

Contributed Comments


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : The British Were Coming (5.9 PG13)
By: proto When: Nov 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Stef and I finally climbed this route last summer. It's a great outing with an alpine feeling. Route finding and protections make the route interesting. The rock is generally good. We found that the crux was the small roof near the end of the third pitch. That section does not correspond to the description given by Sykes in "Secrets of the Notch" although we followed the easier path (may be this part was affected by rockfall). Although not for the budding 5.8 leader, this route would deserve to ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Sands of Iwo Jima (5.11d)
By: proto When: Oct 6, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Very nice even if it is also very short.
I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: proto When: Oct 6, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Led it today. I used a 0.4 on the first pitch and a 0.5 C4 on the second. Nice route very well protected. You don't need 12 QD as stated in the book, 7 QD and 2 runners are enough.

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: proto When: Jul 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Stephanie and I climbed it after camping at Crater Lake. The description of MP is better than that of the guidebook. Overall, finding the line is not a problem: follow the most obvious one. We kept the hiking boots all the way up, which is the good solution, don't bother carrying climbing shoes. The descent via Solo Flight is quite obvious as well, provided you know that you mustn't take the first deep gully. No rope needed for the descent.
Nice alpine route in a remote location.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Elder Cleavage Direct (5.10b)
By: proto When: Jun 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I led the first pitch last Sunday but it was too late to finish the route. So I've described the first pitch only ...
It's definitely a nice one.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: proto When: Jun 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I inadvertently did a 5.10R "variation" going strait to the first good ledge with a tree. Apparently not climbed very often ...
Second pitch is incredibly steep for the grade but is really only 5.4