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Member Since: Mar 12, 2008
Last Visit: Nov 9, 2017
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Point Rank: # 990
Total Points: 840

3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has powderfinger been climbing?


All 366 | Routes 34 | Areas 5 | Approach Trails | Photos 85 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 30 | Stars 195 | Ratings 8

Contributed Comments


Location: California > Central Coast > Pinnacles National Park > East Side > The Yaks
By: powderfinger When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Closures are only seasonal. They usually start the week after MLK day and are in effect until the biologists determine that the nesting is finished (usually in the summer when it is too hot to climb at Pinnacles) The Yaks are always on the list of closures. If you are planning a trip there close to the beginning of the closures you can check the Friends of Pinnacles website or Mud and Crud for updates. The information for closures is also posted in the park at the visitor center.

Location: California > Southern Sierra > Tollhouse Rock > Tollhouse Rock > Nuts and Bolts (5.7)
By: powderfinger When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: The Slater guidebook also states that the bolt is 20ft above the belay. I took the 5.8 "edges" option and found a placement about 10 feet from the belay (in my description above) Believe me, if I was 40ft out facing a factor two fall on a gear anchor it would be etched in my memory and I would make sure to mention it. Did you take the 5.7 friction version?

Location: California > Central Coast > Pinnacles National Park > East Side > The Camel > Ali Baba (5.10b)
By: powderfinger When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: The hanger on the bolt IMO is not sketchy.In fact, it is quite beefy and in good condition (not rusted out) It is just not a modern stainless hanger. I found the harder climbing to be a couple of bolts past this one.

Location: California > Southern Sierra > Tollhouse Rock > Tollhouse Rock > Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: powderfinger When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Sibylle is referring to the standard finish with the mantel over the dihedral and 4th class climbing to the top not the 5.7 bolted runout friction pitch of Elephant's walk.

Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > Hogsback > ... > It's Better with Bacon (5.8-)
By: powderfinger When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Great climb to take someone up if they are new to multi-pitch climbing. With all the bolted anchors so close together you can bail at anytime and rap with one 60m. IMO 1st, the 4th(?) bolted reachy pitch, and the top-out pitch with the tooth thing are the best pitches. Top it out.

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Medlicott Area > Dozier Dome > Bull Dozier (5.7)
By: powderfinger When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Did the walk off yesterday and would NOT suggest walking down the actual waterfall. The water may only be a few inches deep at points but it sure is swift. A slip and a tumble and say goodbye. Instead, when you walk off the slabs from the dome to the water walk upstream, cross over on a few rocks and continue across and down the slabs on the other side. These slabs end in the trees where there is a trail. Follow the trail down the side of the waterfall. There are some great safe pools of... more >>

Location: California > Lake Tahoe > West Shore > Desolation Wilderness > Eagle Creek Canyon > ... > Orange Book (5.8)
By: powderfinger When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: When you exit the chimney at the end of the 3rd pitch it puts you at the beginning of the last pitch of the East Ridge route. Fun route with spectacular views and good quality rock.

Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > Hogsback > ... > Mixologist (5.9)
By: powderfinger When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: The 5.9 start is the variation and the 10a start is the start for the route. The 10a bit is a couple of fun moves over a small roof that is well protected by a bolt. The hand size crack with dikes intersecting it is great for folks who are new to crack climbing.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Oak Creek Canyon > Eagle Wall > Rainbow Buttress (5.8+)
By: powderfinger When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: I found the first crux on the dihedral pitch(the thin pro portion) protects with a .4 piece 00 gray metolius. I did not need a #3 or #4 for the upper portion. Since all of the anchors require gear and some of the pitches are lengthy I doubled up on .75 to 2.5 Great climb with beautiful views!

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