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Member Since: May 8, 2006
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Pinklebear

Point Rank: # 167
Total Points: 3,030

20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Pinklebear been climbing?










Contributions


All 779 | Routes 234 | Areas 27 | Photos 62 | Page Improvements | Comments 203 | Posts 74 | Stars 145 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Primate (5.13 PG13)
By: Pinklebear When: Apr 7, 2017

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Comments: 4/7/17: there is an older Petzl Spirit draw up at the anchor. We had threaded through the anchor and were TR'ing that way to do some bolt work, and I think our rope accidentally ran over the dogbone on that draw -- it had a little surface wear when I got back up there (though it may have had this already). Apologies for this: inspect the draw before you clip it and/or back it up, and I'm happy to get you a replacement dogbone if you PM me.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lost Rock : Salami Mami (5.12-)
By: Pinklebear When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: It was probably 12b/c or 12c all along -- I just sandbagged it. The crux is hard even if you take the rest. Bummer about the anchor hardware. I'll replace this summer with quicklinks and chain or something. Why anyone would steal it is beyond me. Climbers....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Buoux Montana : The Congo : ... : Tender Foot (5.11+ R)
By: Pinklebear When: Mar 5, 2017

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Comments: There are good cams on the upper bit (5.7); so if you bring those, no "R."


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Postcolonial Crag : Stonewall (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Added hardware to the anchors -- biners on the hangers, with chains clipped to those. If anyone goes up there and donates a couple of quicklinks, you could put those on the hangers instead and put the biners on the chain ends for clip-and-lower convenience. Not sure if the hangers are SS or plated -- I didn't look -- so you might want to bring both kinds of quicklinks.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The East Quarry : Tiger's Woody (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: Jan 21, 2017

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Comments: Very subtle and elegant route; well-thought out and bolted perfectly. Put your feet just right for your body size/type, and it's $$$; place them wrong and you'll be slip-sliding all over the arete. Fortunately, there are lots of smears and ripples and different options for all-comers. Thanks, Mark, for a killer line!


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Jan 4, 2017

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Comments: I clipped off the left undercling under the lip -- very quickly -- then snagged up to the crimp with my right hand and just punched it into the crux.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer 42 (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: At 5'6", the actual technical crux for me was the crux of the "12b"--it took me a bit to sort the feet and order in which I need to bring the feet and hands up, but rest assured, shorties, that if you stick with it you •will• find a workable sequence that is even pretty pleasant.

From there, it's pump management with some power-endurance sequences moving up the arete/roof feature above the first belay to a ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Micro Chip (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments: Great little route. The Capps/Lloyd CCC guidebook describes the crux as "height-dependent," but it's really not. At 5'6"—plus old and fat—I had a totally workable sequence; it was more moves maybe but not stretchy. Just jessery and body English.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Ride the Lightning (5.13b)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 12, 2016

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Comments: A friend just posted some old slides he shot of the actual FA on Facebook, dated 10/90. I think I had bolted it, by hand if I recall, that summer (August of 1990), tried it a bit then bailed due to bad temps. Lee Sheftel and I were en route to Hueco Tanks that October and stopped in at Spook for an afternoon of climbing. Our friends John and Tracy Hymer from Ruidoso were there and John was close on the redpoint (it was an open project at that point). John and I traded some beta and I was able to... more >>


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : Sho’Nuff (5.12d)
By: Pinklebear When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: A four-star classic, made even better the addition of a new bolt protecting the redpoint crux getting to the anchors (the FA party added it). Three distinct cruxes separated by lots of pumpy business on perfect rock. Incredible climb!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13c/d)
By: Pinklebear When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: I appreciate you guys removing that choss. Ted and I started to mess with it but then gave up, figuring no one would ever go over there. Guess we were wrong....


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Altered State (5.10+)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: Bolting is fine. Keep it spicy. Thunder Ridge 10+ is a beast to be feared and respected, which is part of the overall experience.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: Maybe a glue-in is merited? If that bolt fails, you will likely deck due to the traversing nature of the route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: 5.12 "c." As in: "C, I fell off again. Guess I'll just keep on trying."


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag
By: Pinklebear When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: The approach/driving beta as described isn't the best. 2.5 miles from the post office will actually put you in a little lot where the road turns from pavement to dirt, and with private land up the dirt road. And this is well past the cragging....

More accurately, per Pinklebear: it's about 2 miles up the road from the post office, right uphill from a steep, narrow section of road where you can see a cliff on the left, across the creek. The Mill Creek C... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Prime the Pump (5.12b)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: As I recall, I never used the larger, flexy sidepull for the left in any case - even when we put the route that hold seemed like it was going to peel. I used the smaller, more inset hold, so perhaps this is why I felt the route was 12c. Or maybe I'm just not as strong and cool as all the bro-brau-bruhs in the elite, cutting-edge Boulder Flatirons Downraters Club.

On a side note, we toproped an alternate first pitch out left up the hanging arete/flake feature to the red face,... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Dammit Samet (5.12b)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: I think we're talking about the same climb, Dave. Anyway, Tod bolted, cleaned, etc. I might have had the first RP, but Tod would know for sure. 12b...stout! I really do recall a hard 12+, but it was also in the full-on sun, so....


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Dammit Samet (5.12b)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: I didn't put this one up -- It's a Tod Anderson climb, and I really doubt 5.12b -- more like 12+, if this is the line up the twin cracks.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: That pocket is natural, for sure. There are a lot of water pockets throughout Boulder Canyon that occur naturally, and this is one of them, at least from my experience climbing the route. You can tell because a natural pocket will still have a rough, crystalline texture.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Skin Flute (5.12a/b)
By: Pinklebear When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: I know a few folks have expressed interest in giving Primate a makeover. I appreciate the spirit with which everyone is considering this. I don't pretend to have any special claim to these routes, having made the first ascent. That's why the FHRC process is in place -- so the community can decide. I do know that Primate has had another lead than mine, Matt Segal, also in headpoint style.

I've talked to a few folks, and Primate might make good sense as a "safe-enough" mixed route. Some of the ge... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Fiscal Cliff : Over the Top (5.12a)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: I had a lot of fun climbing here with Derek in 2014 when he'd put up about half the climbs and I helped pitch in on a few others to get them established. They were plenty clean at the time -- Derek always does a great job cleaning his climbs and has a great eye for a line. I imagine all the dirt on this route was washover, coming off the top of the cliff, and then of course all the mank they stirred up when they came in there and paved a bike path right along the base of the cliff (heinous, IMO ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure aka W... (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Classic thin-face climbing, bullet rock, good mini-rests to get your shit together between cruxes. Love this route; Dream Canyon mega-classic.

The crux seems to have many "bad" options and only one "good" option for people of different heights. At 5'6" with a +2 ape index, I had the good clipping hold with the right, thin gaston just under the bolt with the left. Build the left foot in a white dish/smear, right foot high on the edge out right, rock over, and mantel/fire for the good c... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Hey Dan -- it would be a funner route if less runout. I didn't put it up, no. Maybe Bruno Hache? Or it might have been there before he added his climbs. Not sure....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Slim, if you want to relocate the clip and put in anchors, be my guest. Thanks, Matt.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Apostrophe (5.11d)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Long run to the next-to-last bolt. Not especially hard but could be protected well with a finger-midrange cam in the horizontal (Metolius #3-#5, orange through black).


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