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Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 374
Total Points: 1,680

119 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2827 | Routes 49 | Areas 12 | Photos 260 | Page Improvements | Comments 465 | Posts 1477 | Stars 426 | Ratings 138
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Powder Monkey (5.11a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: What is the route maybe three routes to the right of Powder Monkey? There are some nice vertical cracks (BD #0.5~0.75 size) to a single bolt crux (maybe easy twelve) to a cool finger and hand crack?


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: I had more success on this climb than on many other routes at Thunder Ridge. I think it may have been because I was terrified of falling! My belayer was purposefully not looking at me, doing so would have caused him to stare directly into the sun! This is a good one for crisp temps.

One of my favorites at Thunder Ridge!


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Biner Taste Good!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Polished and Grovelly(sp?), with a necessary tree encounter at the top. There are more worthy warmups at Easter Rock.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 10+ (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: In Climbing Edition 242 there is an omega pacific link cam ad on p. 52 with a picture of Unknown 10+, and the description states the climb is Desert Sunset, 11. Pretty funny.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Riddler (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: Very beta intensive. There are a lot of sucker holds.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Kloof (5.10d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 29, 2011

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Comments: I've always done this route going up the crack at the beginning, instead of traversing left through the buckets (I do it like this because I'm a wanker and I like having pro, it doesn't look like there is much traversing left). I think done this way it's quite a bit harder than T2, because you arrive at the crux pre-pumped. Of course, doing it like this is probably contrived....

Save a grey C4, #0.4 or a yellow Alien for the crux.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.11a R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 28, 2011

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Comments: Hey Dane, I did this today and went all the way from the Upper Ramp through the finger crack and hand crack to a small ledge. I would have liked to go another 20 feet up as it looked like a nice ledge, but I was out of rope (60m with about 7m chopped off). I didn't think rope drag was too bad. Put a double length sling on the first pin, then sling everything else a lot.

I didn't realize that ledge traverse was so long! It kind of detracts from the climbing. Next time I think I'll find a direct... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: Probably soft, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moves before the crux are big for me! My feet often cut going to the triangular jug, then some high steps and pinches get me to the crux, which felt a little more difficult than Days of Future Passed.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Your Mama (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: The photo is correct for this route. Very fun, varied un-indian-creek climbing. Bring plenty of number 1s and 2s for deep in the crack, and the right starting crack. A few 3s are also useful if starting on the right.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Pigs In Space (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: easier than elbow vices to the left. good warmup. You can lower with a 60m, so definitely not 120 feet long.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Elbow Vices (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: Umph! The squeeze is definitely the crux. The scabs on my leg from this beast are still festering 6 days later...


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: Way, way easier than scarface which is also rated 11-.

Walk your 4 up the starting crack. Then a 3, a 2, and a 1 before you bust over the roof. A 2 after the roof, then maybe 2 1s, and 3 .75s.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: I got the RP on this yesterday, and if anyone cares the following gear sewed it up through the crux nicely.

Grey/purple Mastercam hybrid.
Medium nut in the finger slot where the pillar gets steep.
Green C3 in the slot below the jug/rail.
Green C3 just below the pin above the jug/rail.
Pin.
I found a blue/yellow Mastercam hybrid useful for the next placement.

That crack is pretty funky up high. I recommend bringing hybrids, or just placing a lot.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: The bolt anchor after the first "pitch" is unnecessary and should be removed. Maybe leave one bolt there, but I'm not sure that would even be completely necessary.

A #0.75 Camalot fits nicely in the undercling flake after the second bolt. There is a good #0.4 placement above the roof until you can clip the pin.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : No More War (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Fun route. The initial crack is definitely 5.9 and is a little difficult to protect. After the tree, it's a pretty easy run to the bolts on the face, where the crux occurs.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: You can get to the base of the climb from the anchors on the right with a 70m lowering, just barely.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Monastic Groove (5.8)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: I've seen bigger jugs.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Momentum Operator (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Fun Climb. I was leading and I fell turning the first roof with a cam at about my waist and another right below my feet. The clip in point on the back of my climbing shoe clipped into the quickdraw on the cam at my feet and flipped me over.

It's pretty hard to extricate yourself while hanging from your heel.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Got the poop scared out of me by a big nasty rattler today up above Frank's Wild Years/Bone Crusher area. Be careful up there.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: I think this route is pretty reachy for shorties like me. I swear, just two more inches and I would be able to nail the crux move.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Ozone Direct (5.10b) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: To be perfectly honest. neither Kurt or I clip into the anchor with a sling anymore. It really is more convenient to just clove into the anchor. This was our first trad climb together: a great start to a great friendship.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Maybe... that biner may be twisted.


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