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Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 351
Total Points: 1,845

123 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2869 | Routes 56 | Areas 15 | Photos 270 | Page Improvements | Comments 471 | Posts 1482 | Stars 437 | Ratings 138
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: But if you stop there you miss the awesomely exposed and mildly runout third pitch and the resulting sketch fest in trying to figure out how to rappel.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: What's with the signs saying the falls are closed? Does anyone know how long they will be closed for? Do most people just ignore these signs...? Or enter from Upper Dream Canyon?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: The approach is very loose directly at the base of this route. My partner knocked a few VERY large rocks down almost all the way to the road when he alighted upon terra not so firma after sending this glorious route. Be careful.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Ron! It was a fun route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Curb Service (5.10b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: Maybe PG-13 if you screwed up the second clip and there is good swing potential. Maybe I've been sport climbing too much. A cool line with good position.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: 5.10a/b is good. There are plenty of opportunities for good rests with the features behind you. I was fine without any gear, but if this is near your limit bring some, because falls looked like they would not be clean. Overall a fun climb with lots of cool jams and stemming moves.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: What is the route directly left of Throttle? It starts with a lieback then a big jug and then some stemming up to an awkward mantle. Maybe 5 bolts?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Spy : East Ridge (5.3 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: This is a cool scramble with the exposure on both sides! Complete psychological mind trip! Be careful to descend to the north, as to the south it cliffs out. Maybe it was the snow, but I got mildly trapped about 20 feet over some pointy rocks while trying to get to the standard face of the first.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: I'm confused by the caption of this picture... is this a normal thing for when you clean pitches?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Jug Roof (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: This climb is pretty sweet. you have to run it out to the big crack for about 20'. this is maybe 9- climbing, so you should be solid. Then you can plug in a 4"er there, or wait 4 more feet and get a .75 camalot under the flake. Then jam up to the roof and pull through. The next spicy part is getting onto the slab that has the anchors because you can only get in a #1 camalot about 4 ft to your horizontal right. just get on it and trust the feet. I think this climb really should see some mor... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : Peapod Crack (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: Bloody knees is apt. This climb made me sweat! make sure you bring a couple #2 and #3 sized camalots and probably at least 1 #4.5. I only had one of each and ended up walking them up, downclimbing to retrieve them, and running it out. at least its relatively secure.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Hot Karl Sunday (5.10c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: This is a really fun climb. If you like cool, balancey, well protected moves do this climb! I agree that this is 10c.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Vanilla Cream (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: This really is a one move wonder in the dihedral. It looks improbable until you get to the dihedral.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: hahahaha this is THE BEST!

my new hero...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : The Barbie Doll Arete (5.12- R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: This route looks awesome! One day.... It was a pleasure to meet you.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Born Under Punches (5.10a PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: Wow-- this climb packs a punch. I ended up doing a strenuous lieback for a short time. This was a bad idea. pulling over the roof is easy and you can get good no hands rests in right below it. While I did not lead it, it looked like you could get pretty good gear in and I watched someone lead the roof and they had plenty of good cam placements.

Edit to add: I also thought this was a little sandbagged, though my crack technique is obviously mediocre.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: While moving into the second pitch, I did the Eldo up-down dance about 5 times trying different pieces in that slot up high. A #3 Ballnut provided the most security, though I was hesitant to take a fall on it, so I backed it up a little lower with another Ballnut. I tried a micronut first, and ended up having to downclimb, only to have it rip out when my belayer hadn't let out enough slack and I had both my feet on the ledge. Almost took a nasty pendulum onto the anchor. This is a pretty b... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Meltdown (5.10c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 28, 2009

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Comments: I thought this route was pretty fun. There's a cool step-across about halfway up and then a crimpy headwall finish with a good position.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.9-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: This is a sweet climb. It is pretty pumpy, but doable. Since the beta has already been given away, I'll give it away again. Get your foot high in the crack on your right when pulling the roof and that changes the whole story. At the second crux I put a 0.5 Camalot in the solution finger pocket and didn't want to take it out because it fit so well. I ended up doing a double dead point with insecure feet. Fun stuff. Next time I'm going to simply not place gear there as I have no Aliens. Overall, I... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Left Side (5.9+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 7, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route. Get on it. The rock gets plenty of sun in the late morning. We got way lost, but it was one of the coolest experiences of my life. Felt like a big wall because of the exposure.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 7, 2009

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Comments: Wow. Crazy idea.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Dan's Line (5.8)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: 5.8? I don't think so. My friend followed this in sandals. I know that doesn't say much, but this was weak even for BoCan 5.8s. The Owl, Cozyhang, Cussin' Crack, etc are all more difficult imo.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : A Fly in the Ointment (5.10-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: I led this today, the second clip was the most difficult to make. After that it was pretty juggy, but I didn't bring enough finger-sized cams so I ended up running it out a bit. Kind of dirty and there is some bird crap but a route worth trying if you're in the area.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 1, 2009

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Comments: The 5.8 start is pretty soft for the grade. Do the roof to the right off the second belay pitch for some added spice on two finger pockets and no pro. This way is more difficult than the large jug to the left.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Classic Finger Crack (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 31, 2009

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Comments: This is a sweet climb. Great gear the entire way combined with a pumpy crux make this a Boulder Canyon must do.


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