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Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 254
Total Points: 1,645

121 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2798 | Routes 46 | Areas 12 | Photos 296 | Page Improvements | Comments 453 | Posts 1444 | Stars 418 | Ratings 129
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Camino del Chino (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Extension is well worth doing.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Culo De Negra (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: 6 days ago

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Comments: The extension adds about 25m of climbing and knocks the grade up to 13a/12d


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Big Grey Tufa (Mammacita) (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: 6 days ago

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Comments: probably closer to 13a/b


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Ungabunga (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Currently closed due to concern over petroglyphs near the base... lame as driving a 4x4 quad 1 meter away from the petroglyphs is allowed... as is spraying grafitti all over the wall :p


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Mind's Eye (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: It is also called Hino.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side : The Force (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Never underestimate the punt potential at the top of this guy. It's easy bolt-to-bolt, but you may find the irresistible attraction of a certain force pulling you downward too strong to resist.


Location: Europe : Norway : Oppdal* : Kongsvoll : Kongsvollsfossen (WI4)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: The descent isn't terrible. Just work your way waaaaaayyyy (climber's) right until you can wander down easy terrain. There isn't much of a defined trail.

We climbed this in less than ideal conditions. definitely a short section of WI4+ with an exposed pull onto a hanging icicle.


Location: Europe : Norway : Sogn og Fjordane : Hurrungane : Store Skagastølstind : Heftyes Couloir (5.4)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: It's important to note that the climbing on this feature isn't necessarily exemplary. Instead the entire 'experience' is 4 stars!

Also if it takes you 10 hours to do the approach, you probably need to cut back on the butter balls. We did it in 5, and that's with a lot of mistakes.


Location: Europe : France : Southern Alps : Ceuse : Secteur Demi Lune : Carte Blanche (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: 7 bolts total certainly adds to the excitement.


Location: Europe : France : Southern Alps : Ceuse : Secteur Cascade : Corps Etranger (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: Gets 12c in the new guidebook, which is a bit of a sandbag. Probably soft 7c (12d).


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Right hand on the sloping shelf right under the draw, work left with the left to the first gaston, get your feet up a little, bump your left hand to a shallow, gastonish-type feature with your fingers in the crack. Now, pop your right foot up on the crimp underneath your right hand (you can't miss it), and press up on your right foot, using that shitty intermediate with your right to go all the way to the base of that pebbly crack thing with your right (iron cross position here). Match it with y... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Physical Graffiti (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: I'm not sure how you get down rapping to the Le Void anchor... the rat's nest is super tough to get to. We ended up leaving a biner on the two bolts of After the Gold Rush....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: This climb is eroding like my optimism in the intelligence of the American population as Trump gets closer to election.

Holds have seriously degraded from when I was up there last 2 weeks ago. That bottom boulder is fecking hard. I still haven't been able to stick the huck from the bad right hand to the sloping 'jug'. I wonder what it felt like in its near-virgin state.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Hasta La Hueco (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: I check in at about 5'8+" (5'10" if you're of the female variety), and I found some alternate beta that just involved sucking up the left hand to a worse sport on the side pull before going big. I also did it with a cross-dyno that didn't feel toooo bad. All I'm saying is I don't think it's 13a, at least at my height.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Addiction : Addiction (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: This felt harder than cartoon graveyard at 5'8"


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Mevlana : Come as you are (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This thing is impossible unless you can snap an iphone in half by pinching it between your fingertips and palm.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Cardinal Sin (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: This climb hasn't gotten easier in the past 30 years with the polish. Andrew Bisharat's comment about Rifle being soft as baby shit made me think we need to erase his memory and see if he can pull this off when he doesn't have the beta wired :)


Location: Asia : Jordan : Wadi Rum
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: I have a blog post about a trip Mia Kvåle Løvmo and I did here in early 2015:

invertphil.net/eden-of-sand/


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Huh, that was dumb of me not to pinpoint it. I think we're talking about the same one, Brett.

Great climb nonetheless.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Dos Hermanos (5.11+) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: what tilt shift?


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Lower Ice Caves : Bloodhound (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic route. More people should get on it. I think it's a reasonable onsight at the grade, because there is a lot of opportunity to hang out, test out holds, downclimb to stances, etc.

There were draws on it this weekend, so it's a great time to try out this awesome new addition.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: The new bolt makes that pitch a lot more reasonable but still committing. Thanks!

My friend broke a hold off the crux (he's fat)... it's probably more difficult now. There was a team behind us, so they may have some idea.

In terms of quality... most of the pitches had kinda nasty chimneys with a lot of awkward climbing. There were a few worthwhile pitches up high that made it 'Worth Doing Once'.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Wall of Voodoo : Porch Monkey (5.12a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Nope. Let's all chill out, bruh.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Squeal to Stihl (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Someone (not me) busted off the glued-on tooth that made the kneebar after the crux more locker this weekend. It is still a pretty good kneebar, you just have to exert more calf-pressure.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : Valley Crags : ... : L'Escamarla (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: This route kicks ass. Dyno leading to pumpy crack and traverse to a beautiful arete. Yesterday I sent this route and my friend belayed Sonnie Trotter on his send of Estado Critico. All climbers need to go to Spain.


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