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Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen

Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 374
Total Points: 1,680

119 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2827 | Routes 49 | Areas 12 | Photos 260 | Page Improvements | Comments 465 | Posts 1477 | Stars 426 | Ratings 138
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Gerakios - Upper Cave/Rainb...
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: All of the Gerakios areas should be merged into one area with sub areas underneath that.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Gerakios - Upper Cave/Rainb... : Zavara Katranemia (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: This is what Kalymnos climbing is all about. Good candidate for first "8a"


Location: Colorado : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Creek : Fortress of Solitude : West Wall: Pummeling Sector... : Glamorama (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 21, 2017

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Comments: I broke off a hold that looked like people were using to go left to avoid a second crux at the last bolt. I think going direct (hands right of the last bolt) at the end easily bumps this route to 12c.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : The Successor (5.13a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: Last time I was here both the mono and the crimp were wet. What a great way to blow your tendons up. Why the hell do we drill monos? It's idiotic.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Open Space Cowboy (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: I'm surprised people call this soft. I think this is nearly as hard as Double Dominatrix. I'd like to see some 11+ beta.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: After doing the direct start yesterday, I would agree with a 12d rating. There's no V6 boulder problems anywhere on this route. The overall effort to send is considerable as the rests are taxing, and there is good punt potential once you pull the roof.


Location: Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 28, 2017

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Comments: Ok. If something needs to be done about the bolts, what can we do? How strict is the no rebolting ban? What size hangers would work if we can only change the hangers? What is the climbing organization in the area?

I'm going to be heading to Elephant's perch this summer and want to get my revenge on this route, but I see the bolt situation has only deteriorated. I'm going up there anyway, so what can happen?


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: Nope, there ain't. You can get wifi at Dona Kika's...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 16, 2017

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Comments: What is the status of Rad Kr33m? There is a ton of chalk on it and two distinct starting locations? Or are there two distinct lines?


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Tufa Lina (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: The worst route I got on at las animas. Not really worth it.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Bizarre Contact (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: This route actually was just ok imo.The bottom boulder is fierce, fingery, and polished, and the second half is a little awkward with bad fall potential.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Musical Boulders (aka- ...
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 4, 2017

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Comments: It seems like the Lost Boulders are closed, while the Pony Keg and Ron's Keg are still open....


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Crystal (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 30, 2017

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Comments: A huge ( 60+ lb. ) flake came off the top of this yesterday. A helmet wouldn't have helped at all, but more importantly it is a good reminder that this rock type is especially susceptible to freeze/thaw cycles, and you can never be too sure that what was solid last season is still attached.

Anyways, fantastic route. I think this is my favorite for the grade at Shelf.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : La Boca (Rincon Suiza)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: This wall is actually very good. Don't be dissuaded by the small number of routes on MP.

See this topo, made by Brian Tickle (outdated and a little "off", but a good place to get started):



static.wixstatic.com/media/166...

The... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Cara Cortada (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 20, 2017

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Comments: really nice extension at 12c


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Quesadilla (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 19, 2017

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Comments: Hard and inobvious


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Camino del Chino (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: Extension is well worth doing.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Culo De Negra (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: The extension adds about 25m of climbing and knocks the grade up to 13a/12d


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Big Grey Tufa (Mammacita) (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: probably closer to 13a/b


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Mind's Eye (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: It is also called Hino.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side : The Force (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Never underestimate the punt potential at the top of this guy. It's easy bolt-to-bolt, but you may find the irresistible attraction of a certain force pulling you downward too strong to resist.


Location: Europe : Norway : Oppdal* : Kongsvoll : Kongsvollsfossen (WI4)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: The descent isn't terrible. Just work your way waaaaaayyyy (climber's) right until you can wander down easy terrain. There isn't much of a defined trail.

We climbed this in less than ideal conditions. definitely a short section of WI4+ with an exposed pull onto a hanging icicle.


Location: Europe : Norway : Sogn og Fjordane : Hurrungane : Store Skagastølstind : Heftyes Couloir (5.4)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: It's important to note that the climbing on this feature isn't necessarily exemplary. Instead the entire 'experience' is 4 stars!

Also if it takes you 10 hours to do the approach, you probably need to cut back on the butter balls. We did it in 5, and that's with a lot of mistakes.


Location: Europe : France : Southern Alps : Ceuse : Secteur Demi Lune : Carte Blanche (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: 7 bolts total certainly adds to the excitement.


Location: Europe : France : Southern Alps : Ceuse : Secteur Cascade : Corps Etranger (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: Gets 12c in the new guidebook, which is a bit of a sandbag. Probably soft 7c (12d).


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