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Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 49 mins ago
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Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 319
Total Points: 2,215

126 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2940 | Routes 60 | Areas 17 | Approach Trails | Photos 272 | Page Improvements | Comments 490 | Posts 1499 | Stars 458 | Ratings 144
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : La Superlune (aka Polish Sa... (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: 4 days ago

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Comments: As the 'technical crux' seems to require traversing hard left, be prepared to skip a bolt or two. However, it's not so bad as there are a lot of bolts.

Edit after send: Not necessary to traverse hard left. Everyone seems to have different beta for this route, though.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Waiting For 21 (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 13, 2017

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Comments: A really, really good route. I suppose equal in classic status to Beer Run.

I don't really see this being 13c. Compared to other 13bs in the canyon, I think this is a bit easier. So, soft 13b.

You don't have to use the sloper either. Just a hint. Figuring the beta out ground up without the draws hanging is a bitch. You'll have to either climb through the crux or haul up a stick clip.

RIP, HK. May your spirit of pure joy and unrepentant comradeship with the climbers around... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 8, 2017

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Comments: no idea


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : East Kootenays (Kimberly/Cr... : Lakit Lake : Air Main. (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 4, 2017

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Comments: I think this is actually called Air Mail.

I did this route both ways: ignoring the corner to the left and using it. I think the grade is the same for either way. The pump crux comes after.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : East Kootenays (Kimberly/Cr... : Lakit Lake : Air Strike (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 4, 2017

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Comments: Chipped. Nice dynamic crimps


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Fossil Hill : Hang Fire (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 28, 2017

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Comments: Harder than hips like cinderella if you can hang on your fingers.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Echo Canyon : ... : Wedding Crasher (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: I had a hard time locating the 'fun climbing' on this route.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Echo Canyon : ... : Falling Leaf (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: This was one of the worst routes we did in the bow valley. Holds felt crumbly and brittle. The top pitch is on sharp rock with awkward movement.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Echo Canyon : ... : Buffet Royal (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: Given 12c in the new guidebook... which makes it a soft 12c for the bow valley. Mid-low 12 either way. Felt similar to Atlantis in difficulty, while being an entirely different style, so don't trust that comparison.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Echo Canyon : ... : Fresh Prince (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: I think this would be a tough first 13 as the crux is a psychologically testing series of sloping crimps at the very top of the wall after the no-hands rest.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Whipped Cream (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: Shouldn't the name be WH19P3D CR$$M?


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Carrot Creek
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: This whole area should probably be broken up into sub-areas.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Hands-down incredible. Low commitment as you can rap at nearly every pitch.

My girlfriend linked the 5.9 pitch into the 5.11- roof by accident... and her only comment was that the roof felt hard for 5.9. Something to chew on.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Do you even crack climb bro?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Super Direct (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: hmmm not really worth doing IMO after doing a several more 'cragging' routes. The second pitch is cool!... but after 50' it gets a bit monotonous.

The middle pitches are gully slumming, and completely unremarkable.

The top pitches are insecure on the traverses, and a little uncomfortable on the ups.

Maybe I was just having an off day. At least the raps are bolted and low commitment.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Cougar Canyon (Creek) : ... : Timber (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 21, 2017

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Comments: Great route. Felt soft for 13a if you are a rifle regular.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Echo Canyon : ... : 1. Pie Wagon Sector
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 17, 2017

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Comments: This sector isn't really worth the time... Chossy rock, and unremarkable routes compared to neighboring sectors.


Location: Montana : Gallatin Canyon : The Cube : Uber Ass (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments: Great route. 12- seemed fair. Definite boulder-lunge crux that belied the idea that this is a power-endurance route.


Location: Montana : Gallatin Canyon : The Cube : Straw Man (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: The easiest climbing on the wall to a 2-move v7/v8... hard to give more than 2 stars.


Location: Montana : Gallatin Canyon : The Cube : Roller Girls (5.12b/c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: V7 is 12b/c? Boulder problem to easy climbing


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Superratic Pillar : Great White Behemoth (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 3, 2017

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Comments: This isn't really a good climb. Polished, tweaky holds, polished holds, uncomfortable. Many, many better 12bs at ten sleep.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Heh. Thanks, Lenore. You just provided a lot more information that I didn't have earlier.




Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: 'looked good'

Fantastic. What a sterling recommendation of gear placements. What will it take to convince you, Dameseer? Someone ripping the full pitch and breaking their ankles? Their neck? It's great that you, who have probably had to redpoint that pitch previously, now has the pitch wired and can do it without testing that gear. It's great but also irrelevant to the conversation.

The bottom line is that pin was bomber when it placed. It was bomber many years later. However, ... more >>


Location: Europe : Norway : Lofoten : Pianokrakken : Applecake Arete (5.9 PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 19, 2017

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Comments: There are a few loose blocks which subtract from the quality, but overall a worthy line.


Location: Europe : Norway : Lofoten : Pianokrakken : Lys Og Skygge. (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 19, 2017

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Comments: The right crackline at the top is given 10a in the guidebook and a different name, but it didn't really add much to the difficulty... nice climbing though!


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