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Member Since: Aug 1, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,414
Total Points: 215

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Phalanges been climbing?


All 83 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 10 | Stars 33 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > **Phoenix Areas > Superstition Mountains > Barks Canyon Wall
By: Phalanges When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Was up there this weekend and found two stuck ropes to the left of the Long Lead. Initially thought they were knotted together, but on the decent realized they were separate, one appearing to be hopelessly stuck in a crack, and one with a knot about 20 feet off the ground. Looking like someone had bailed quickly, on our way back to the base we climbed up and freed the one rope with the knot, with the plan to get it back to the owner. In hindsight, we realized that someone may have been using ... more >>

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Sycamore Wall > New Patriot, Old Soldier (5.10a)
By: Phalanges When: Jan 7, 2018

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Comments: This is a great description of the route. I'll add that we didn't place anything smaller than a 0.2 BD X4. Great spots for nuts if you want to save on the cams. Definitely some challenging moves down low, with better hands than feet. Also, rock up top was a little looser than Machete, could use some traffic.

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Sycamore Wall > Machete (5.9)
By: Phalanges When: Jan 7, 2018

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Comments: Found most of the gear is 0.3-0.75, and there's lots of great spots for nuts. Pulling up off the big ledge is definitely the crux, with probably the sketchiest gear, although I didn't have/need/see a spot for a 00. Once on the face, climbing is great, good rock, no move harder than 5.7 with pretty good protection. Really enjoyed this route.

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Atlantis > Atlantis South Side > Grumpy after Eight (5.10a)
By: Phalanges When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: The second bolt was extremely loose and was sticking out about half and inch. I hand tightened it, but it could use a wrench.

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > **Phoenix Areas > McDowell Mountains > Sven Slab
By: Phalanges When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Just to update the getting there section, what's listed is now as far as I can tell out of date. Both Sven's slab and the climb's for Tom's Thumb and Gardener's Wall are accessed from a single trailhead and parking lot. The directions in the Weekend Rock were pretty confusing having never been there and with the clearly new setup. Just follow the directions on the Tom's Thumb page.

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > **Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Loafer's Choice Slab > Dead Meat (5.7+)
By: Phalanges When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: I'll reinforce what Ted had said. Definitely wished I had had a #1 and runner for the section above the horizontal crack and mini roof before the second bolt. #4 in the horizontal. Definitely a worthwhile climb.

Location: Washington > Okanogan > Mazama
By: Phalanges When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: We were climbing in mid-March this year, granted we were belaying on snow, but the routes were dry. I'd say by end of April in most years the snow will be gone, with some of the routes on Goat wall being wet in spring. Now, Washington Pass just up the road is a different story...

Location: Washington > Okanogan > Mazama > Prospector Wall > Anything Helps (5.9)
By: Phalanges When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: There are now bolts with chains at the top of the upper section, but you aren't missing too much if you skip it. Bottom section is actually pretty fun with some finger locks and can probably be lead on gear.

Location: Oregon > Willamette Valley > Hills Creek Spires > Main Street > Alley Acess (5.10b)
By: Phalanges When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Route defined by one hard move about half way up. Tough belay spot as are most at Hills Creek Spires.

Location: Oregon > Willamette Valley > Hills Creek Spires
By: Phalanges When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: I spent the summer in Oakridge, OR and went climbing at Hills Creek a few times. I added some of the routes that I was able to get on. It's a beautiful place that is definitely worth checking out, although I will caution you with this. This is definitely adventurous climbing. If you are used to level belays, easy approaches and solid rock, this may not be the place for you. However, if you are looking for a place with no crowds with some sense of mystique, head on down.
Most of the routes ... more >>

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