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Member Since: May 7, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact pfwein

Point Rank: # 10,910
Total Points: 35

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has pfwein been climbing?


All 663 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 362 | Stars 204 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date


V4 6B (18)


Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Milton Boulder

Jul 19, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Bo precipitation.

Bo precipitation.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Sep 15, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: on the traverse

on the traverse

California : Inland Empire : ... : In the Picture (V4)

Dec 11, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Matt above the crux after a good onsight.

Matt above the crux after a good onsight.

Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Art's Spar (5.10d)

May 9, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: up there

up there

Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Botonga (5.9)

May 8, 2006

Rock Climbing Photo: This is the route.  Real simple.

This is the route. Real simple.

Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Botonga (5.9)

May 7, 2006

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Crack of Desperation (5.10a)
By: pfwein When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: Three stars for general weirdness at the crux, but that may be a little generous. Also seemed to take very good gear (save #3 C4 for crux) although not all rock quality was perfect. I traversed right into the bolted climb some ways above the crux. Brought back memories of when I first tried, probably close to 20 years ago--as a crack newb then I was somewhat overmatched.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : The Twilight Kid (5.10c)
By: pfwein When: Sep 4, 2017

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Comments: I didn't use the tree, but I climbed up the tree crack a bit and stepped right. Maybe the people who give it harder grades take a different line and stay substantially right of the tree. If so, that's fine, but it would be contrived to climb it that way. A pretty good route whatever the grade.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Mountain Rose (5.10a PG13)
By: pfwein When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: I'm reluctant to say a route is safe, but it seemed to me that gear is plentiful and solid. I would recommend nuts for anyone apprehensive, as they seemed extra bomber, and a bomber #3 C4 in the crack over the roof protects getting to the bolt.

TLDR: I'm not sure I see why this would be rated PG-13 or even PG really (unless the standard for G is a continuous bomber crack).

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Polyester Leisure Suit (5.11b)
By: pfwein When: Aug 12, 2017

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Comments: Beta alert: seemed like a very long reach up and right from obvious, chalked-up hold; I couldn't get it and fell (I'm sure it would go that way, just need a little more reach and/or horsepower). Next try, I did another move up and left to a less obvious hold (layback), then reached right; seemed substantially easier that way. Not sure what is the "normal" way.

Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Catch a Wave (5.11a)
By: pfwein When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: My gear / climbing beta: only clip the bolts until the last bolt, then climb up and right aways to find a crack that takes bomber 0.4 Camalot, then back left to rejoin Sweet Sunday Serenade near the very top, where I put in a bomber 0.5 (and could have put in other gear there). The climbing was easy above the last bolt and not super-runout, although you're going aways on moderate terrain. Clipping the first bolt, which I didn't do as we yo-yo'd, seemed heads-up / maybe dangerous--ot... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Clipboard (5.11a/b)
By: pfwein When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: I started in crack and cut left where it seemed obvious to do so--I know you can stay "nose to the bolts", but that seems rather contrived, and it's a nice climb to do. It however feels natural.

Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Tonto (5.9+)
By: pfwein When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: Agree with the above--these bolts are weird, including a spinner that can't be tightened (has a round nut or something). I appreciate the efforts of bolters in general, but in the modern era, if you can't use standard high-grade climbing hardware, perhaps just leave the rock alone. (If somehow I'm misanalyzing what's up with these bolts, then I apologize.)

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Smoking Sections : ... : Sweet Cigarillo (5.8)
By: pfwein When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: The P2 anchor could use some work: it is 2 good bolts but had just a ratty sling through the bolt hangers (and a good quicklink as a masterpoint). We added a girth-hitched shoulder-length sling to each bolt, but quicklinks would be better on the bolt hangers, so the slings don't get torn. Probably quicklinks and chain (or just a couple links) would be the best long-term solution.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: pfwein When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: Be very careful if doing the second pitch while trying to follow the Haas guidebook; I'm not sure that it shows the "correct" way to go.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: pfwein When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: My gear/climbing beta for OW: #5 C4, pin (i.e, pin below crux, not lower pin right above or part of belay anchor), bump #5 above pin, do crux move and climb a ways, insert #6, bump #6 a time or two to final position at roof. Can supplement with blue and yellow Metolius Mastercam sizes in flake below the roof. Apparently there is red Alien size to L of roof, but I didn't see it.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10+)
By: pfwein When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: Warning detailed beta:
On the wide crux, I used my two big pieces (an old #4 Camalot and #4 C4) early in the wide section, got up to the sort of "rest" (with a foot out right) and saw I needed another similar sized cam to keep going. I was able to fit a very tipped out #3 C4 at my feet, lowered and retrieved my old #4. So, at least for me, you need either 3 similar sized big pieces, or space the 2 out better (which is what most people do I imagine; I put my fi... more >>

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : East Corner
By: pfwein When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: There are a couple other bolted climbs and at least one easy crack. Climbing was OK, not great. Hard for me to find the place--could have been user error, but I didn't find the info on this site or "The Voo" to be clear. This crag is not particularly close to Spectreman IMO, and I'm not sure why that's the reference point. Wish I had taken a GPS coordinate.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Rowdy Joe Bad (5.11c)
By: pfwein When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: I preinspected clipping stances on rappel, and they were all fine for my 5'7" self. I put a locker on each bolt, and it seemed intelligently bolted to me (although I had some concern doing the mantel below 3rd bolt, I don't *think* it was dangerous). Hard for me to say if anything has broken, but the crux edges were thin and seemed friable, and even though there was just one crux sequence, seemed solid 11 or a little harder to me.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : South Face (V4)
By: pfwein When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: The rating may depend on how you finish it. I've never thought it was quite kosher to grab the "side" hold that is about straight left from the high right crimp, at least not for full credit. Instead, go up (and still somewhat left), and then sticking that move is the crux. Doing as I describe could be V2 I suppose, in the same way that Crystal Lift is V2.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Blows Against the Empire (5.11a)
By: pfwein When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: I put in purple Metolius in the crack I took to the big ledge before the first bolt, then a yellow Metolius on the ledge. The crack to the anchors takes pieces in something like 0.3 to 0.5 Camalot size.
As to the height-dependent nature, I'm 5'7" and could sorta reach the good hold, at least well enough to make the move. Seemed soft at 10d for me, but that's not to brag--I expect Eldo 10d to feel hard. I didn't feel getting to the first bolt was especially bold (in light of the good-sized hold... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Bidoigt (5.10a)
By: pfwein When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: My gear beta: yellow Mastercam (not blue, but I like 'em tight) after first bolt, then #7HB offset (i.e., a medium-sized nut) and 0.75 Camalot for above 2nd bolt. Braver climbers could probably just clip the 2 bolts and be fine (with an attentive belay), but if you're gonna bring gear, the above seemed good to me.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10c)
By: pfwein When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Warning--climbing beta in post.
So I climbed pretty straight up between bolts 2-4 on P1; my partners went a little left there (where the face is somewhat less steep) and speculate that may be a little easier. I hesitate to add a rating as maybe it feels hard because of no warm up, and slabs can feel hard when you haven't done many recently. But, put me in the "no way is this easier than solid 5.10 camp." Beyond my subjective impression, I've been up there a few times and seen glum-l... more >>

Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : North Ridge (5.8)
By: pfwein When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Doing the chimney / tunnel "pitch" in one pitch seemed like a bad idea due to the way the rope would run--I agree with BruceB's comment.
Some topos I saw gave the tunnel an "R." I'm generally reluctant to say pro is good lest someone rely on that and get injured for whatever reason. But it seemed to me that solid gear was available with no terrifying runouts (no wide gear is necessary--nothing bigger than #3 C4--and it would take huge big bros, if that, to span the chimney/tunnel). To s... more >>

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: A few random comments, skip if you don't like info:

Description is good except to combine the first two pitches--that makes no sense to me. May be possible with extra long rope and/or simulclimbing (I think even longer than a 70m, although not sure about that) but only in the same way that almost any pitches can be combined. The "second pitch" (when splitting them up) is long and sustained, and not totally in line with the first.

Gear: an atomic rack would be something full set of nuts (did... more >>

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