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Member Since: Aug 9, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 18, 2016
Contact Peter Jackson

Point Rank: # 1,637
Total Points: 510

7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 397 | Routes 27 | Areas 7 | Approach Trails | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 153 | Stars 78 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall > Coprolite (5.8-)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: It's been almost 4 years since I was there, so my guess is I either remembered wrong, or a bolt was added. Updated.

I can't speak to the grade, though I'll say that if I thought it was mislabeled when I climbed it, I'd have noted that in the description. There was a piece of notebook paper that listed the routes and grades posted on a stick when the area was being developed: I just listed the grade that was on the paper.

Given how loose the blocks on that end of the wall were when the routes... more >>


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall > Basilisk (5.7)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Super glad to hear it. The loose stuff was sketch-sketch-sketchy! I'll update the description.


Location: Maryland > Patapsco State Park > Ilchester > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: He's not just on Blue Rose, he's getting the blue rose bruise on his right hand right now! Awesome shot.


Location: West Virginia > Seneca Rocks > Southern Pillar > Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Peter Jackson When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Andy, I think you're right. When posting my comment above, I fell into the escalation trap. So for that, I apologize.

In any case, I left the mid-atlantic long ago, so I'm not familiar with where the noobs go these days. How about we edit the description to be a combination of my description and yours?

[ EDITED TO ADD ] I updated the description with your comments, bumped up the grade, and gave you credit in the description. If you'd like me to ping an admin to make you the route owner, lemm... more >>


Location: West Virginia > Seneca Rocks > Southern Pillar > Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Peter Jackson When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I have indeed climbed the great chimney. But at the time I submitted it to MP, I didn't know too much about writing a good route description.

[ inflammatory stuff edited out ]

When I climbed the route, the old guide listed it at 5.1. The new guide also lists it at 5.1. That doesn't make it suitable for a newb. The very best way to suggest an upgrade is to use the consensus rating on MP.

As the original poster of the route -- but not as the FA or guidebook author -- I felt it was important t... more >>


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... > Solar Collector/Gold Coast > Rebar (5.11a) > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Phil! The route is really aesthetic. Hard to take a bad picture of it, really!


Location: Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall > Anonymity (5.9)
By: Peter Jackson When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: I tightened the left anchor bolt today, but it'll continue to work loose until someone hangs chains on the hangers: when you thread the hangers and rap, it torques the hanger counterclockwise. I'm visiting from Rumney, so I didn't bring the gear to fix it right. If you want to climb this route and there aren't chains on it, bring a wrench or a medium stopper to back up with in the crack.

All that said, it was a nice route if you stay off the rotten stuff to the right.


Location: Virginia > DC & Northern VA Region > Great Falls > Romeo's Ladder > Romeo's Ladder (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Michael. I updated the text to reflect the longer walk.


Location: New Jersey > Delaware Water Gap NRA, NJ ... > Triumverate Wall > The Rib (5.3 PG13) > Comment > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Whoa. Yes, a touch sketchy. :)


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Jimmy Cliff > Lady and the Tramp (5.4) > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot! Shyla has skills.


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... > Left Field > Lowered Expectations (5.5)
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: While this route is a really easy romp, it was a great way to get a pitch in and start shaking off the cobwebs (since it's not *quite* a warm-up) while my friends were all looking in the guidebook and trying to decide what to climb first.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Parking Lot Wall > Rubicon (5.10b)
By: Peter Jackson When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: I noticed that the left anchor nut tends to come loose because the tension from a rappel on the rings turns the nut and hanger counter-clockwise. It's been loose every time I've topped out on this route, so I extended it with a couple quicklinks and put clips on it.

Hopefully that keeps things a bit more snug and keeps your ropes happy! Please don't TR on the quick clips. Thanks!


Location: Minnesota > Sandstone > Robinson Park > Relationship Wall > Stage Fright (5.12c)
By: Peter Jackson When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Excellent name for a route. There's a scary route in NH called Stage Fright that has been repeated once. I figured I'd share: mountainproject.com/v/stage-fr... and a picture: mountainproject.com/v/10647004...


Location: New Hampshire > WM: North Conway > Humphrey's Ledge > The Geriatric Walls > Tree Keys (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Edited the grade to reflect the new guidebook rating and the consensus rating. My original post used the grade from NEClimbs.

Be careful when starting up the face above the blocky, broken ledge. Some loose stuff has pulled off of there recently.


Location: New Hampshire > WM: North Conway > Humphrey's Ledge > The Geriatric Walls > Anniversry (5.8)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I like this route, but it doesn't get a star. My wife and I climbed it this weekend for our anniversary. We'll probably climb it again.

The gear under the nose (before bolt 3) is not confidence inspiring: very rotten and shallow. If 5.8-5.9 is your top grade, I suggest a rehearsal on TR. This should be possible by climbing Gaggle of Geese first.

Guidebook says 5.9 but I think its either soft or upgraded because of the pro.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Orange Crush > Orange Crush (retro-bolted) (5.9)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Near the top, there is 9mm accessory cord coming out of a horizontal crack on the left. Is there a nut buried in there somewhere, or is it a thread? Super cool. Next time, I'm clipping it anyway. :)

EDITED TO ADD: Sneoh is correct: Citrasolve follows the line to the LEFT of Orange Crush. If you hop on the line to the right expecting a 5.10c, you'll find the climbing a little stiff for the grade (it's Tropicana, at 5.11a).


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Venus Wall > Venus Envy (5.10a) > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: They look plenty strong: the corrosion is a bummer, though. Stainless would have been prettier, and would have lasted longer.

The new anchor is all stainless and looks solid.

EDIT TO ADD: Although I wish the person who replaced it had used chain or more quick-links. The rap ring and link configuration is a rope twister.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Venus Wall > Venus Envy (5.10a)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this today and really liked it. The bottom was very sharp, but the business up top had more comfortable holds. Don't bail because of the sharp stuff! (It left me very bloody handed, though.)

Not sure who did the job, but the anchors have been replaced with all-stainless gear. They looked good to me today (although the corroded stuff in the photos also looked OK to me: plenty strong in spite of the rust). Galvanic corrosion was certainly part of the equation, but I suspect it had more ... more >>


Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The Prow Area > Liquid Sky (5.13b) > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Only if they are skin-tight.


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > Evan Anderson > East Coast Craggin > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Looks like RhinoBuckets to me, kind of a ho-hum route. If you didn't walk too far uphill, you missed most of the good stuff. The Meadows doesn't have many classic routes at the 5.10 grade, but Bonsai, Darth Vader, Jimmy Cliff, Triple Corners, and Waimea do.

In any case, I do hope you had fun while you were here!


Location: Virginia > DC & Northern VA Region > Great Falls > Dihedrals > Go Directly to Jail - aka P... (5.7)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Why is this AKA photo-op arete? Does anyone have pictures that illustrate the photogenic nature of the route?


Location: Virginia > DC & Northern VA Region > Great Falls > Aid Box > Dark Corner (5.5)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This was my very very very first trad lead, back when I had no idea what I was doing. Plenty of trees for TR, but I made the mistake of leading on gear as a complete noob.

Fortunately, 23 years later, I am still alive and climbing much smarter. :)


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Triple Corners > Triple Corners Right > Sun Bowl (5.8)
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: "I am not sure what I did wrong on this route but it felt wayyy harder than 5.8."

You probably missed the dynamic move. (Or, if you're not tall, the dyno.) Give it another go! The hold you're gunning for is bomber.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Darth Vader > Yoda (5.9) > Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Heh. I always keep locker gates aligned when doubling them up (too complicated to explain why, but I'll show you the reason sometime). My wife and I could never agree on which way was better, so we compromised. One draw gets a locker, the other gets a wiregate, and the gates are opposed. :)

I think no matter which way you set your gates, the anchors here are a very welcome sight after the high crux sequence!

I like this angle on the route: don't see this perspective often.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > 5.8 Crag > Granny's Route (5.4)
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: "The guidebook gives this an "R" for the protection rating"

I think if you somehow fell while clipping the second bolt, you'd get hurt. But honestly, the stance is like a ledge there, so it's unlikely to happen. Like many of Shim's routes, it's bolted safely-but-sparsely.


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