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Rock Climbing Photo: Belay


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 17, 2016
Contact Peter Franzen

Point Rank: # 133
Total Points: 3,942
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
394 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1859 | Routes 162 | Areas 85 | Photos 173 | Page Improvements | Comments 182 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Chaos (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2001

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Comments: First off, this route spanked me. The first couple sequences are very tough (5.13 for sure), and they spit me off repeatedly. My one piece of advice for this route is to bring a stick-clip. Unless you are comfortable clipping off of tiny .13 crimps with bad feet it'll be pretty scary.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Presto (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2001

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Comments: The description above is great, but I have one thing to add: your chances of redpointing this route are much much lower if it is in the sun or if it is exceptionally hot out. The Anarchy wall is in the shade in the morning, and you should take full advantage of that. The slopers down low are well, slopers, so watch out.


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center : Number Cruncher (V2)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: You're calling this a V2?? Ive seen V5s that are easier than this thing. Maybe its just me, but I think V2 is a sandbagged grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup...


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I just got on this route today for the first time, and although I loved every inch of it, it really is tough. I had just climbed Sargasso Sea (another 12a in Dream Canyon), and the first two pitches of Earth Voyage were far more difficult. Make sure you e up on your steep slab technique before throwing yourself at the second and third pitches! :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I'd have to agree with Pat on this one. Although the bottom crux is completely height-dependant (I am 6 and snagged the jug with no problem), the upper slab crux is not as bad if you know the beta. I thought the 12a rating seemed about right for the overall route, although neither crux seemed as hard as 5.12 on its own.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first bolt is by no means "thoughtfully placed," although the rest of the route is very well bolted. I put a small-medium nut in the crack below the first bolt while standing on the large flake at the bottom to protect those moves. They might be a bit sketchy for someone expecting a straight-up 5.9 face climb.


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