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Rock Climbing Photo: Belay


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 17, 2016
Contact Peter Franzen

Point Rank: # 133
Total Points: 3,942
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
394 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1859 | Routes 162 | Areas 85 | Photos 173 | Page Improvements | Comments 182 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Blue Light Special (5.11b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 18, 2006

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Comments: If the consensus is 11b then I can change it. It's been a few years since I've been on it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Latest Rage (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 11, 2006

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Comments: This route is a blast, especially because when you get sick of falling out of the crux you can walk 10ft. to your left and fall out of the crux on Watt's Totts. ;)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : JT's Route (5.10b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: I found this to be a really fun route. The crux comes just at the right place at the top and makes a great finish.

This route isn't in the main Smith guidebook.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Mt. Hood : North Face Right Gully (WI3+ R)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 4, 2006

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Comments: What is the best time of year to try this route?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (zz) Upper Gorge : E type Jag (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 14, 2006

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Comments: One of the best 5.11s at Smith. It's well worth the hike.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Mt. Hood : South Side Route (PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 1, 2006

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Comments: The bottom of the Hog's Back is a good place to rope up. The sulfer fumes can be almost unbearable there if you get a windless day, but it gets better as you approach the summit. If conditions are soft enough the route can be done without crampons, but it's a good idea to use them anyways.

I think the only glaciated peak in the world that gets more traffic that Mt. Hood is Mt. Fuji in Japan. This is a great "first glacier route" despite the crowds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 31, 2006

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Comments: Fun route, but be careful when plugging in cams just off the 2nd belay. Apparently there were some loose flakes in there when I did it, and when I fell just after the bulge I pulled a solid-feeling #2 Camalot which extended the fall all the way back to the belay ledge. My partner says he saw a bunch of rock fragments fly out when the cam blew. I wasn't injured or anything, but it was the first piece of gear that I ever had pull out on me.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (h) The Peanut : Pop Goes the Nubbin (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 30, 2006

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Comments: I see why you say that. I don't think it's quite as run-out as Peanut Brittle (which I gave a PG-13), but I could be remembering it wrong. It's been a few years since I've been on it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Karate Crack (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 26, 2006

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Comments: Great route.

Strangely enough, from what I've seen the Karate Wall receives more rappeling traffic than climbing traffic on heavy weekends. I seem to have a memory of an endless stream of boy scouts rapping down the wall after climbing up Cinammon Slab.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 24, 2006

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Comments: I've fallen off of this route more times than I'd care to admit. I've pulled through the lower crux plenty of times, only to fall off of the dyno over the lip. It's a classic though! One of these days I'll get around to sending it...


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Madrone Wall
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 24, 2006

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Comments: Would it be ok with the community to put directions to Madrone on the site? Part of me feels that it's good information to have out there, but I don't want to do anything to encourage people to go out there while it's closed.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Little Debbie's Boulder : Unnamed, left of Sloper Chi... (V6-7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 16, 2003

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Comments: Quality problem, but it's definately height dependant and can be tricky if you don't have the beta worked out for the first couple of moves. Start with your left hand on the obvious undercling/sidepull/jug and your right hand on the bad sloper.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Point Break (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 16, 2003

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Comments: Did this route yesterday and had a blast on it. Definately do it in 2 pitches though-- 4 belays would be overkill. Make sure to take measures to avoid rope drag on the first pitch (really the 1st and 2nd combined). The final pitch is great fun, especially with the (well protected) runout before the steep section at the top. It's definately a rope stretcher and we only had a foot or two to spare, but it's a worthwhile pitch.

Instead of rapping off we decended via the gully to the climber's r... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 7, 2002

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Comments: Did this route on September 7, 2002 in truly specacular conditions. I'm not sure I can add much to the good beta already provided, but here are some random comments:

The road to the trailhead is horrible. I did it at night (!) in a stock Nissan Pathfinder and although we made it up, there was a constant fear of flat tires and bottoming out on rocks. Make sure you have a 4WD-Low gear or some sections may be impossible.

We started at the lower lake at around 4:30, and waited until dawn to do ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rock Odyssey (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 26, 2002

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Comments: Did this route yesterday, and I found it to be lots of fun. The first pitch has a great slabby crux on some thin holds, and ends at a comfortable belay on top of a huge flake. The second pitch is a fantastic lead, but it's probably very reachy if you aren't very tall. I ended up doing some wild stemming and had a couple of big stretches to holds; the second half of the pitch is nice and juggy. I would STRONGLY recommend stoping at the new-looking bolts for this pitch rather than co... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Pinch Overhang (V5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 10, 2001

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Comments: I worked on this problem last time I was up at Horsetooth and scared myself silly with the mantle. I had 4 crashpads and 3 good spotters under me and I still backed off every time. The landing isn't total death, but when faced with a no-holds sloping mantle 10 feet above the sloping ground, it takes some serious determination to keep going.

On a lighter note- the one move from the pinch to the slopers before the mantle is really cool!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Tanks for the Hueco (5.10d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 9, 2001

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Comments: This is a super-cool moderate route that I'd suggest for just about anyone. The first part up to the ledge is a little funky, but the huecos above are out of this world.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Kahuna Boulder : Kahuna Roof (V5-6)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: I'm really not up on my Front Range bouldering history, so maybe someone a little more knowledgable can help me out with the first-ascent info for this one.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Not My Cross To Bear (5.11a/b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 27, 2001

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Comments: [Definitely] the most spectacular dihedral sport pitch I've ever been on. The clipping stances for the first two bolts aren't great, but keep your head together and it's not bad. The dihedral has to be seen to be believed- it's just so clean and smooth. Penitente at its best if you ask me.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 8, 2001

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Comments: A truly stunning route. Just trust yourself and be confident on the dyno at the start, then get into your best zen-balance mode for the rest of the arete. A spectacular climb on perfect rock- a must do for any 5.12 climber!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: First, the route name is 'Empire of the Fenceless'- that's my fault for the error.

Second, there are glued holds on this route. I honestly can't tell if any were manufactured (I don't think there aree any), but a couple of the jugs have some epoxy behind them for support. Just thought I'd put the word out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Terrain Boulders : Parasol (V5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 20, 2001

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Comments: That 'static move' might not be so static if you're less than 5'9" or so. Very very good problem though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : ... : Original Grapple (V4-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 28, 2001

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Comments: It's nice to have a good spotter ready to catch you on this one. It'd be a nasty tumble to fall down into the hole below the starting holds.

And I agree- the crux is keeping your butt from hitting the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch is fantastic, even though it is definately tough for 5.9 (hey, it'd be solid 5.10 in Dream Canyon:). Don't pull too hard on the flake at the top of P1, it's a bit loose.

As of 9-17-01 it looked like there were two fixed pins for the crux of P2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung Dihedral (5.7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: Very cool climb. We did a variation to the first pitch, starting a bit farther up along the wall then traversing right to the tree at the top of P1. The hand crack is great, and if you have a lot of time and patience on your hands, there's some sweet booty in the back of it.


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