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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 23, 2017
Contact Peter Franzen

Point Rank: # 139
Total Points: 3,775

417 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










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All 1853 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Approach Trails | Photos 173 | Page Improvements | Comments 175 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 31, 2006

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Comments: Fun route, but be careful when plugging in cams just off the 2nd belay. Apparently there were some loose flakes in there when I did it, and when I fell just after the bulge I pulled a solid-feeling #2 Camalot which extended the fall all the way back to the belay ledge. My partner says he saw a bunch of rock fragments fly out when the cam blew. I wasn't injured or anything, but it was the first piece of gear that I ever had pull out on me.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (h) The Peanut : Pop Goes the Nubbin (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 30, 2006

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Comments: I see why you say that. I don't think it's quite as run-out as Peanut Brittle (which I gave a PG-13), but I could be remembering it wrong. It's been a few years since I've been on it.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Karate Crack (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 26, 2006

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Comments: Great route.

Strangely enough, from what I've seen the Karate Wall receives more rappeling traffic than climbing traffic on heavy weekends. I seem to have a memory of an endless stream of boy scouts rapping down the wall after climbing up Cinammon Slab.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 24, 2006

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Comments: I've fallen off of this route more times than I'd care to admit. I've pulled through the lower crux plenty of times, only to fall off of the dyno over the lip. It's a classic though! One of these days I'll get around to sending it...


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Little Debbie's Boulder : Unnamed, left of Sloper Chi... (V6-7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 16, 2003

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Comments: Quality problem, but it's definately height dependant and can be tricky if you don't have the beta worked out for the first couple of moves. Start with your left hand on the obvious undercling/sidepull/jug and your right hand on the bad sloper.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Point Break (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 16, 2003

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Comments: Did this route yesterday and had a blast on it. Definately do it in 2 pitches though-- 4 belays would be overkill. Make sure to take measures to avoid rope drag on the first pitch (really the 1st and 2nd combined). The final pitch is great fun, especially with the (well protected) runout before the steep section at the top. It's definately a rope stretcher and we only had a foot or two to spare, but it's a worthwhile pitch.

Instead of rapping off we decended via the gully to the climber's r... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 7, 2002

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Comments: Did this route on September 7, 2002 in truly specacular conditions. I'm not sure I can add much to the good beta already provided, but here are some random comments:

The road to the trailhead is horrible. I did it at night (!) in a stock Nissan Pathfinder and although we made it up, there was a constant fear of flat tires and bottoming out on rocks. Make sure you have a 4WD-Low gear or some sections may be impossible.

We started at the lower lake at around 4:30, and waited until dawn to do ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rock Odyssey (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 26, 2002

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Comments: Did this route yesterday, and I found it to be lots of fun. The first pitch has a great slabby crux on some thin holds, and ends at a comfortable belay on top of a huge flake. The second pitch is a fantastic lead, but it's probably very reachy if you aren't very tall. I ended up doing some wild stemming and had a couple of big stretches to holds; the second half of the pitch is nice and juggy. I would STRONGLY recommend stoping at the new-looking bolts for this pitch rather than co... more >>


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Pinch Overhang (V5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 10, 2001

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Comments: I worked on this problem last time I was up at Horsetooth and scared myself silly with the mantle. I had 4 crashpads and 3 good spotters under me and I still backed off every time. The landing isn't total death, but when faced with a no-holds sloping mantle 10 feet above the sloping ground, it takes some serious determination to keep going.

On a lighter note- the one move from the pinch to the slopers before the mantle is really cool!


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Tanks for the Hueco (5.10d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 9, 2001

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Comments: This is a super-cool moderate route that I'd suggest for just about anyone. The first part up to the ledge is a little funky, but the huecos above are out of this world.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Kahuna Boulder : Kahuna Roof (V5-6)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: I'm really not up on my Front Range bouldering history, so maybe someone a little more knowledgable can help me out with the first-ascent info for this one.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Not My Cross To Bear (5.11a/b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 27, 2001

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Comments: [Definitely] the most spectacular dihedral sport pitch I've ever been on. The clipping stances for the first two bolts aren't great, but keep your head together and it's not bad. The dihedral has to be seen to be believed- it's just so clean and smooth. Penitente at its best if you ask me.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 8, 2001

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Comments: A truly stunning route. Just trust yourself and be confident on the dyno at the start, then get into your best zen-balance mode for the rest of the arete. A spectacular climb on perfect rock- a must do for any 5.12 climber!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: First, the route name is 'Empire of the Fenceless'- that's my fault for the error.

Second, there are glued holds on this route. I honestly can't tell if any were manufactured (I don't think there aree any), but a couple of the jugs have some epoxy behind them for support. Just thought I'd put the word out.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Terrain Boulders : Parasol (V5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 20, 2001

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Comments: That 'static move' might not be so static if you're less than 5'9" or so. Very very good problem though.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : ... : Original Grapple (V4-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 28, 2001

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Comments: It's nice to have a good spotter ready to catch you on this one. It'd be a nasty tumble to fall down into the hole below the starting holds.

And I agree- the crux is keeping your butt from hitting the ground.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch is fantastic, even though it is definately tough for 5.9 (hey, it'd be solid 5.10 in Dream Canyon:). Don't pull too hard on the flake at the top of P1, it's a bit loose.

As of 9-17-01 it looked like there were two fixed pins for the crux of P2.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung Dihedral (5.7)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: Very cool climb. We did a variation to the first pitch, starting a bit farther up along the wall then traversing right to the tree at the top of P1. The hand crack is great, and if you have a lot of time and patience on your hands, there's some sweet booty in the back of it.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Chaos (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2001

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Comments: First off, this route spanked me. The first couple sequences are very tough (5.13 for sure), and they spit me off repeatedly. My one piece of advice for this route is to bring a stick-clip. Unless you are comfortable clipping off of tiny .13 crimps with bad feet it'll be pretty scary.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Presto (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2001

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Comments: The description above is great, but I have one thing to add: your chances of redpointing this route are much much lower if it is in the sun or if it is exceptionally hot out. The Anarchy wall is in the shade in the morning, and you should take full advantage of that. The slopers down low are well, slopers, so watch out.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : City of Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center : Number Cruncher (V2)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: You're calling this a V2?? Ive seen V5s that are easier than this thing. Maybe its just me, but I think V2 is a sandbagged grade.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I just got on this route today for the first time, and although I loved every inch of it, it really is tough. I had just climbed Sargasso Sea (another 12a in Dream Canyon), and the first two pitches of Earth Voyage were far more difficult. Make sure you e up on your steep slab technique before throwing yourself at the second and third pitches! :)


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I'd have to agree with Pat on this one. Although the bottom crux is completely height-dependant (I am 6 and snagged the jug with no problem), the upper slab crux is not as bad if you know the beta. I thought the 12a rating seemed about right for the overall route, although neither crux seemed as hard as 5.12 on its own.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first bolt is by no means "thoughtfully placed," although the rest of the route is very well bolted. I put a small-medium nut in the crack below the first bolt while standing on the large flake at the bottom to protect those moves. They might be a bit sketchy for someone expecting a straight-up 5.9 face climb.


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