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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 23, 2017
Contact Peter Franzen

Point Rank: # 139
Total Points: 3,775

417 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1853 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Approach Trails | Photos 173 | Page Improvements | Comments 175 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Double Trouble (5.10b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Magic Light (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 22, 2006

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Comments: A.K.A. "Traffic Light" due to the nonstop traffic on the first pitch.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 1, 2006

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Comments: Also worth mentioning is that the West Side of the gorge is almost always in the shade due to its orientation. For climbers seeking a respite from the scorching heat of the main area this is a great place to cool off.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Wind and Rattlesnakes (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 27, 2006

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Comments: I loved this route. It's surprisingly pumpy pulling through those final pockets on the final headwall!


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Zebra Direct (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 25, 2006

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Comments: This makes for a good secondary warmup as a toprope after climbing Gumby.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (2) Llama Wall : Blackened (5.11c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall : Reason To Be (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Good climb but the bolt placements are pretty bad in my opinion. For both the second and third bolts I found stances a few feet below them that would've made much better places to clip from. It's nice and spicy though, which can be fun.

I actually felt that the crux came at the last couple of moves before the jugs at the top, just after clipping the final bolt. All the holds up there seem to be sidepulls making for a couple of delicate smears.

Also, as of Sept. 23rd, 2006 all of the bolts w... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall : Massive Luxury Overdose (ak... (5.10c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: This is a fun route-- I just did it this morning. Great knob pulling!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 8, 2006

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Comments: Isn't that Lynn Hill?


Location: Oregon : Willamette Valley : The Garden : The Garden Boulders : Garden Groove (5.10a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 23, 2006

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Comments: I'm not aware of anyone else getting on it. Everyone always laughs when I suggest bringing anything but crashpads to the Garden. ;)

What's the word on other roped climbs down there? The first time I was there I saw a bunch of people with a couple of Hiltis and plenty of rigging gear, obviously out to equip some routes. Anything been cleaned off on the little cliffes just up the road?


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Plastic Monkey (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 11, 2006

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Comments: I got on it last weekend. It's in desperate need of cleaning, but I'll never get on it again. It has a big drilled pocket to set up for the crux, and overall it's just no fun at all. Be as negative as you like. ;)

Call to Greatness is in need of some serious gardening-- it doesn't look like it's been climbed at all this year.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 27, 2006

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Comments: Fun route! Make sure it's in the shade though, because it's pretty slick.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 1, 2006

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Comments: Nice shot. I have a lot of memories of mornings that look exactly like that.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 4, 2006

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Comments: Great problem, although, for me, the crux came at the very end while topping out rather than on the underclings.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Killer (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 25, 2006

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Comments: Classic route! I seem to remember a lot of bees and/or hornets on this route when I climbed it a few years ago. I imagine all those big pockets make nice hives.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (2) Brogan Spire
By: Peter Franzen When: May 20, 2006

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Comments: Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 28, 2006

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Comments: Kristo works for the AF now? I should really try to get back in touch with him...

Cool pic for a great climb.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Bridge of the Gods Boulders
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 28, 2006

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Comments: I put some photos up for the problems that are in here in addition to improving the driving directions. I know the ratings on a bunch of the other problems out there but I have no idea what they're called so I'll hold off on putting them in for now.

I built a few more rock cairns out there today-- one at the corner of the last turnoff to the parking lot and a couple on the trail. There's a lot of poison oak growing out there now!


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Bridge of the Gods Boulders
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 27, 2006

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Comments: I'm probably heading out there tomorrow. I'll be sure to take some pictures.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Blue Light Special (5.11b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 18, 2006

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Comments: If the consensus is 11b then I can change it. It's been a few years since I've been on it.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Latest Rage (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 11, 2006

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Comments: This route is a blast, especially because when you get sick of falling out of the crux you can walk 10ft. to your left and fall out of the crux on Watt's Totts. ;)


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : JT's Route (5.10b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: I found this to be a really fun route. The crux comes just at the right place at the top and makes a great finish.

This route isn't in the main Smith guidebook.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Mt. Hood : North Face Right Gully (WI3+ Mod. Snow R)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 4, 2006

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Comments: What is the best time of year to try this route?


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (zz) Upper Gorge : E type Jag (5.11a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 14, 2006

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Comments: One of the best 5.11s at Smith. It's well worth the hike.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Mt. Hood : South Side Route (Easy Snow PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 1, 2006

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Comments: The bottom of the Hog's Back is a good place to rope up. The sulfer fumes can be almost unbearable there if you get a windless day, but it gets better as you approach the summit. If conditions are soft enough the route can be done without crampons, but it's a good idea to use them anyways.

I think the only glaciated peak in the world that gets more traffic that Mt. Hood is Mt. Fuji in Japan. This is a great "first glacier route" despite the crowds.


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