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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 23, 2017
Contact Peter Franzen

Point Rank: # 141
Total Points: 3,775

421 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1852 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Approach Trails | Photos 173 | Page Improvements | Comments 175 | Posts 642 | Stars 422 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Flyboy SDS (V8-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: I actually found the sit-start to be slightly easier than the standing start, although the ratings should probably stay as-is. The moves are less awkward for the sit start, even if they are slightly more strenuous.

Don't let the V8 rating turn you away if you're looking for a good way to do this problem.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Evilution (V12-13 R)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: Awesome problem. Evilution to the lip is a must-do for anyone climbing in the V10 range.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Get Carter Boulder : Michael Caine (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: A V12 sit-start exists for this problem as well.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Checkerboard Area : ... : Checkerboard (V7-8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: I didn't find this to be as dangerous as many people make it out to be. The first moves are quite easy, and the crux at the end is easily protected by a few pads and a good spotter.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Soul Slinger (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: If you have large hands it may be easier to do a wide pinch with the right hand rather than squeezing the little nubbin on the arete. There is a good thumb-catch and it sets you up well for the next 2 moves.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Out of Harm's Way (5.8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 11, 2008

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Comments: This route has some of the best knob pulling at Smith for any grade. Wonderful route. The bottom will be pretty sewn up with a 0.75, 2 #1s, and a #2.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Dragontail Peak : Backbone Ridge (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 3, 2007

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Comments: I'll second that comment. A 12 pitch climb like this really deserves to be fleshed out some more.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Mountain Home Road boulders : Star Wars boulders : Darth Maul (V4-5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: Fantastic problem! I found the mantle to be the toughest part by far.


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk : Wussy Boy (5.8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 4, 2007

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Comments: We found the bottom section of this to be a bit awkward, but the top was a lot of fun and made up for it.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Panic Attack (5.11d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: Lots of bolts on this one, so if you're sick of the spacing on other routes this will feel great.

Fun bouldery movement and well protected. I just wish it were longer.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: I did this route this morning. Some thoughts:

We took 2 60m ropes with us and while it made the rappels a bit easier you can definitely get by with just one. Don't rap back down the route-- we heard that some people have been doing this for some reason. Rap off the opposite side that you came up, then find the chains 10m or so to the climber's left of the route and rap down there. There are anchors everywhere on this wall so it's pretty easy to get down.

I was suckered in to going straight... more >>


Location: Oregon : Northeast Oregon : Anthony Lakes
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: I've heard rumors of granite bouldering out in this area. Is that a possibility?


Location: Oregon : Northeast Oregon
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: I think it's a good idea to separate out Eastern Oregon into its own area. It's far enough from Portland/I-5 that most people probably aren't familiar with it so putting it all together isn't a bad idea.

I'm not a big fan of placeholders (Blitzo has some on this site that are still blank months after he originally put them in), but as long as you remember to go back and fill them in then go ahead and use them.


Location: Utah : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : No Substance : No Additives (V11) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: It's worse than it looks-- I'm 6'1" and I have a 6'5" wingspan and I couldn't hit that without my feet coming off. In reality that's a dyno, not a deadpoint like it looks in the picture.


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 24, 2007

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Comments: I've heard of this area, and I'd love to check it out in the Fall.

What is the driving time from the Crescent City area? I'm coming from Portland, and I'm having a hard time figuring out if it's better to go through the Redwoods area on the coast and cut over, or to just come straight down I-5 and then go West at Redding. What would you recommend?


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : French's Dome
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 10, 2007

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Comments: French's just had a ton of work done on the retaining walls and trails. They've really been beefed up, and the whole effort looks awesome. Thanks to anyone out there who put in some hard hours out there!


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Scarface (5.14a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 1, 2007

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Comments: This route is a bit beyond me but having talked to a few people who have been on it it sounds like the .13d/.14a distinction comes down to whether or not you can milk the no-hands rest. My friend Brian is a bit too short to really lock into it so it feels rather hard for him.

I dunno-- I normally take all grades with a grain of salt and never quibble about minor differences. This one certainly seems to go back and forth a lot though.


Location: Utah : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Riverside Boulders : Feels Like Grit (V6+)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 30, 2007

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Comments: Super cool problem. There's a bit of leavitation involved in the topout, I think.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: Pitches 3 and 4 can easily be combined.

We ran into a spot of trouble on the rap off of this today. The wind blew one of our ropes over to the other side of the notch, where it became caught. I won't go into the details of our near-epic getting it out, but the end result was that I had to rap down the West side of the Monkey.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Tip (5.7 C2)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 24, 2007

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Comments: I hope someone can come in and add a better description of this. Beta on rigging the rappel, how to manage the ropes, a pitch-by-pitch, and some info on how to set up the tyrolean would be very helpful for this fantastic route.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 27, 2006

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Comments: What an outstanding description of this route! Crux after crux after crux... it may be a few more years before I attempt this one.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 21, 2006

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Comments: What an outstanding picture! I can't believe I haven't been there yet.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : The Bypass
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 2, 2006

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Comments: Sounds like a nice little crag. I'll check it out the next time I'm in the Hood River area.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 31, 2006

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Comments: This is one of the most intimidating climbs anywhere-- moreso than the harder .14s at Smith. It doesn't get a ton of traffic but it's a hell of a line.


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Lost Rocks : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 29, 2006

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Comments: I wish that problem had been that height when I did it! I think it was another 6ft. higher for me! Darn shifting sands...


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