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Rock Climbing Photo: Afrika Bambatta V12 Elkland


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact Peter Beal

Peter Beal
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Point Rank: # 342
Total Points: 2,056
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 0
41 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 974 | Routes 100 | Areas 25 | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 365 | Posts 293 | Stars 118 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Benedictus/Masterpiece (5.11c)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Great film about an epic ascent. Highly recommended. This link is for the full-length version



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : What If You're Not? (5.7)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: This is not a beginner sport route. The runouts are quite dangerous at virtually every clip, and while the holds are generally huge, if anything goes wrong, the consequences would be serious.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not aka The B... (5.11b)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Did this today and kind of have to agree that the first bolt seems pointless. Ground up, it protects nothing important, and it seems easy enough to top-rope it if you want. My advice would be to bring one bouldering pad, especially with the recent trail work, as the landing is reasonably flat and broad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 2, 2016

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Comments: Just did this excellent route and thought I would offer my view:

Pitch 1. 5.10c. This is excellent though strenuous and awkward at about 50 feet. There is no need for a piece to get to bolt 3. The ledge at the end has 2 sets of belay anchors, 1 old Star drive bolt and the above mentioned stacked Leeper Z-pins. Why?

Pitch 2. 5.10b. This is short and fun with a surprisingly tricky start.

I could see combining these, but communication with the second becomes even more difficult if the creek is h... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Hi Mark,
It certainly felt hard BITD, but it's also a style I really don't do well at. So while I flashed Flying Beast for example, a bouldery short route on fairly defined holds, Buddha Belly took quite a bit longer because of its sloping abstract features.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Pterodactyl Traverse (5.12d)
By: Peter Beal When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: Ben, that is an old project. The traverse is chipped, but the upper seam/corner is all natural and brick hard, maybe V13 bouldering?


Location: ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park
By: Peter Beal When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: Good advice about keeping a low profile. Thanks for posting it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : ... : Fleshfest (V9)
By: Peter Beal When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: For connoisseurs of the Satellites, the common method for Fleshfest (V9) is to head right at the crux and then back left to the arete. The V10 (somewhat contrived) method tacks up the arete directly using small crimps and a pebble undercling on the left to get to the break and then finish direct.

I cleaned the holds heading left after the V10 crux to what looks like a V12 section to good holds and the top. V13/14 project?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Smith Overhang (V8)
By: Peter Beal When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Hi Wes,
I have done both problems numerous times, and I would guess for your height this would not be a difficult problem. Soft 7 is quite a stretch for the downgrade, and 8 for the sit clearly points to a reach advantage. To even things out, try off-routing the big holds on the right, and let me know what you think :)

UPDATE: A video of the normal V8 start:




Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : The Agronaut (5.13a)
By: Peter Beal When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Aggro, not agro, coming from the word aggravation :)


Location: UT : Saint George : Moe's Valley : Sentinal Area : Sentinal Boulder : Huntsman Graffiti (V5)
By: Peter Beal When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: This is one of the best problems for its grade that I have done.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Candel Area, The : Fingers Boulder : Fingers Traverse (V6-7)
By: Peter Beal When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Chris! Believe me, I am not concerned about getting credit for 2.5 "new" moves of climbing. Flag is almost unique in the way in which obvious undone "up" lines (Cryptic Magician for example) have been assumed as done somewhere back in the day when it was clearly not the case. I am working on multiple double-digit independent lines up there that have not yet been done. Incredible but true.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Candel Area, The : Fingers Boulder : Fingers Traverse (V6-7)
By: Peter Beal When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I assume that if something that obvious had been climbed it would have been updated in any number of available forums online and in print. The "lowball sitstart" that I "groveled" through is actually good climbing on the best line and had no prior signs of human contact, odd for a fairly popular wall. Old school bouldering priorities aside, sitstarts to traverses were not exactly common anywhere in the '70s. So many people say, "Oh yeah Holloway (or Karn, or whoever) did it back in the day..." a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Candel Area, The : Fingers Boulder : Fingers Traverse (V6-7)
By: Peter Beal When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: The holds at the start were completely untouched and required cleaning. I strongly doubt anyone else had done it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : White Wedding (5.13d)
By: Peter Beal When: Oct 12, 2013

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Comments:



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : ... : Devil's Work (V9)
By: Peter Beal When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Did this today. Seems too thin for V8, too short for V10. Definitely a great addition to the wall. Time to look at the arete right of Balance in Nature.


Location: ME : Camden Hills : 05. Lost Valley aka Out Bac...
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Next time I will have to check that out Taylor!


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : East Jungle Gym : Cosa Nostra (5.14c)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Antoine,
These Ophir routes sound cool but the Euro/YDS grade conversion is 8b/13d, 8b+/14a, 8c/14b, 8c+/14c, 9a/14d. Maybe edit the description?

Please post photos!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: Peter Beal When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: mountainproject.com/v/moderate...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Highway Attraction (V6)
By: Peter Beal When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Definitely done years ago. I did a low start and thought it V3 or 4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : ... : Devil's Work (V9)
By: Peter Beal When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: It's a good wee problem but needs cold temps. Next visit :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Hasta La Hueco (5.12d)
By: Peter Beal When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Is there a third pitch planned?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cryptic Boulder : Cryptic Right (V4)
By: Peter Beal When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: I was interested in a lower start on the arete and then moving into this but abandoned it as too silly :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Peter Beal When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Mark! I am going to go with Monsieur Pinklebear on this one. Hard for the grade but not 13b.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Peter Beal When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: Permadraws on a closely bolted 35-foot cliff seems over the top. This is not the Motherlode or Wicked Cave here. The cliff is not even very steep. FWIW I never left draws overnight on any of the projects I did here. It takes a few minutes to put them in bolt-to-bolt and only a little longer to clean.


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