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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Peter Beal
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Point Rank: # 414
Total Points: 1,740

42 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Peter Beal been climbing?










Contributions


All 1088 | Routes 102 | Areas 25 | Approach Trails | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 377 | Posts 381 | Stars 122 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: "Strange route, 2 stars is a stretch. Blew the onsight because the crack/slot over the final bulge was full of mud.... The hand jam at the top is gross too. Not very satisfying or enjoyable."

There's been a lot of rain recently which would explain the mud. Anyway, you can climb the last crux on the right at a similar grade on face holds avoiding any jams. Sorry you had a tough time on this one.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Peter Beal When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: Ben, Google is your friend

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moby_Gra...


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Peter Beal When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: blog.trango.com/kittys-back-in...

Interesting additions above the moderate slab climbing that the Catslab is known for. Thanks, Mark Anderson!


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Shine (5.14a)
By: Peter Beal When: May 17, 2017

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Comments: Just a heads-up on this climb: sometime in March/April 2017 a small but critical hold broke on the crux that changes the difficulty quite a bit. This is the small sugar cube that was often used to get to the quartz pocket/edge. This may also affect the Prime Time to Shine linkup though perhaps less.


Location: Maine : Fort Williams : Blade Runner (V3+)
By: Peter Beal When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: "Also, most of this rock is hollow / crumbly, just stay off it."

Hahaha, it's not that bad actually. But yes it's all been climbed.


Location: Maine : Fort Williams
By: Peter Beal When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: Yes I assure everyone that virtually every feasible line here has been climbed. I climbed here for many years before moving west and was pretty systematic about finding and climbing everything I could.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Peter Beal When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: So 6x4 meaning 6 feet by 4 feet? Wow! I know that the top of that route was always a little unconsolidated but yikes!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Prime the Pump (5.12c)
By: Peter Beal When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: Only did the first pitch, but the upper headwall looks excellent. The hero jug climbing lower was a lot of fun!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Sick For Sleeping (5.11b/c)
By: Peter Beal When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: A cool pitch though the low slab detracts somewhat. Barely harder than its neighbor with a fun upper crux.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Hippopotamus (5.10d)
By: Peter Beal When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: Today I did this route along with the 11 to the right and the first pitch of Prime the Pump, and it was probably the hardest of the three! Very interesting climbing, definitely not 5.10.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area
By: Peter Beal When: Apr 19, 2017

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Comments: Definitely no camping or overnight parking in Boulder Canyon, and with recent area fires started by transients, I would expect serious scrutiny for any camping on National Forest land in the vicinity as well.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Pop Rock
By: Peter Beal When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: There is a perfectly good pullout just below the boulder on the north side of the road. It's the first pullout on the right after Coney Island heading west.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag
By: Peter Beal When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: See my comment about the Bachar Block regarding the approach to Law of Physics Bachar's Block.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag : Bachar's Block
By: Peter Beal When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Just a heads up that the posted directions to this boulder will not work and you will wander confused by a plethora of small cliffs, steep loose gullies, trees, pricker bushes, and other detritus on this hillside. However the "correct" approach is one of the worst gullies I have used in the canyon. It might be better to use the gully west of Lion's Den and traverse east (climber's right) for a few hundred yards above that clif... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Benedictus/Masterpiece (5.11c)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Great film about an epic ascent. Highly recommended. This link is for the full-length version



Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : What If You're Not? (5.7)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: This is not a beginner sport route. The runouts are quite dangerous at virtually every clip, and while the holds are generally huge, if anything goes wrong, the consequences would be serious.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not aka The B... (5.11b)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Did this today and kind of have to agree that the first bolt seems pointless. Ground up, it protects nothing important, and it seems easy enough to top-rope it if you want. My advice would be to bring one bouldering pad, especially with the recent trail work, as the landing is reasonably flat and broad.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 2, 2016

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Comments: Just did this excellent route and thought I would offer my view:

Pitch 1. 5.10c. This is excellent though strenuous and awkward at about 50 feet. There is no need for a piece to get to bolt 3. The ledge at the end has 2 sets of belay anchors, 1 old Star drive bolt and the above mentioned stacked Leeper Z-pins. Why?

Pitch 2. 5.10b. This is short and fun with a surprisingly tricky start.

I could see combining these, but communication with the second becomes even more difficult if the creek is h... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Hi Mark,
It certainly felt hard BITD, but it's also a style I really don't do well at. So while I flashed Flying Beast for example, a bouldery short route on fairly defined holds, Buddha Belly took quite a bit longer because of its sloping abstract features.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Pterodactyl Traverse (5.12d)
By: Peter Beal When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: Ben, that is an old project. The traverse is chipped, but the upper seam/corner is all natural and brick hard, maybe V13 bouldering?


Location: Maine : Bradbury Mt. State Park
By: Peter Beal When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: Good advice about keeping a low profile. Thanks for posting it!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : ... : Fleshfest (V9)
By: Peter Beal When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: For connoisseurs of the Satellites, the common method for Fleshfest (V9) is to head right at the crux and then back left to the arete. The V10 (somewhat contrived) method tacks up the arete directly using small crimps and a pebble undercling on the left to get to the break and then finish direct.

I cleaned the holds heading left after the V10 crux to what looks like a V12 section to good holds and the top. V13/14 project?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Smith Overhang (V8)
By: Peter Beal When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Hi Wes,
I have done both problems numerous times, and I would guess for your height this would not be a difficult problem. Soft 7 is quite a stretch for the downgrade, and 8 for the sit clearly points to a reach advantage. To even things out, try off-routing the big holds on the right, and let me know what you think :)

UPDATE: A video of the normal V8 start:




Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : The Agronaut (5.13a)
By: Peter Beal When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Aggro, not agro, coming from the word aggravation :)


Location: Utah : Saint George : Moe's Valley : Sentinal Area : Sentinal Boulder : Huntsman Graffiti (V5)
By: Peter Beal When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: This is one of the best problems for its grade that I have done.


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