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Member Since: Oct 15, 2012
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Paul Zander

Point Rank: # 1,081
Total Points: 667

26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Paul Zander been climbing?










Contributions


All 949 | Routes 11 | Areas 2 | Photos 110 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 74 | Posts 116 | Stars 377 | Ratings 255
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit : The Son Tower
By: Paul Zander When: Jun 11, 2017

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Comments: Austin - Probably this route:
mountainproject.com/v/-instaco...


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Cornickopia (5.10)
By: Paul Zander When: May 3, 2017

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Comments: Yes, exactly. I was just noting that the location description for this route was perhaps out of date when it said Cornickopia is the next bolted line right of sacramental whining.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Cornickopia (5.10)
By: Paul Zander When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: There is now a sport route between this route and Sacramental whining (castle). This route is just right of the big gully that is the start of nuts and bolts, thus making it feel more like it's on the 'Knight' formation


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Window Dome : Four Course Meal (5.7)
By: Paul Zander When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: NOLS groups use this route in their outdoor courses - don't be shocked if there is a large party on route. You'll likely see their van.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (S Face) (5.11-)
By: Paul Zander When: Feb 22, 2017

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Rough guide to approach
Rough guide to approach


This should get you there


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (S Face) (5.11-)
By: Paul Zander When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Some notes from a recent ascent -

This climb is very well protected with bolts and I felt comfortable pushing my limits leading it. Very much a sport-style route, we placed maybe 3 or 4 cams.

Pitch 1 is a really cool technical pitch, pretty hard for 10+. We got the rope pinched in the crack in the roof 20 feet up making for heinous rope drag. Should be possible to prevent by placing a piece just above the lip of the roof, whereas we protected in the crack on the bottom side of the roof.

For... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Storm Front (5.10b)
By: Paul Zander When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: My partner and I both thought the initial roof was the crux, more evidence that climbs feel different for different folks


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Nancy Boy's Nightmare (5.11-)
By: Paul Zander When: Jan 8, 2017

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Comments: I believe this is incorrectly labeled as a bolts only route in SQL3, probably want some gear for this one.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Nancy's Wet Dream (5.10b)
By: Paul Zander When: Jan 8, 2017

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Comments: Fun fairly long and sustained pitch on mostly good rock. Goes more left than you might expect to finish.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Paul Zander When: Dec 20, 2016

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Comments: Caden - January is a great time to climb in the Stronghold. It can snow, but once the sun comes out, you're good to go. The rockfellows are frequently climbed in January and have routes on all aspects, but most of them seem to be on the shadier side. The Sheepshead is generally a bit sunnier and warmer, it is perfect on a day with a high of 50.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Tour Buses Welcome (5.10a/b)
By: Paul Zander When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments:


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Paul Zander When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: I think the easiest way to do the first pitch is to traverse even lower than the yellow line and end at the same belay ledge with the pin. Keeps that pitch around 5.4/5.5


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Inertia (5.10-)
By: Paul Zander When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Are there really 3 bolts on this? I looked and could only find 2. must've gone too far right...


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ewephoria (5.8)
By: Paul Zander When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: Booty Alert! I dropped a pink tricam from the anchors at the top of the third pitch. It landed in the trees directly below that anchor (to the climbers right of the bolt line on the third pitch). I did not attempt to retrieve it. If you find it and want to give it back I'll buy you a beer for sure, shoot me a PM. Or just keep it for yourself, you deserve it.

As for the climbing... Great Route! I was surprised how almost every pitch had solid 5.8 cruxes. I felt I needed a little more than a... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Paul Zander When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Hey Brian. Personally, I climb elsewhere when it's above 95 in Tucson. But if you start your approach in the dark and climb on shady faces you can definitely make it work in the summer.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Cloud Man Got Angry (5.10)
By: Paul Zander When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Had fun on this route, first time up Babo, so I can't say how it compares to other routes, but I felt the lower section before I'itoi's patio was pretty good, less so above that. Overall the route was mellower than I expected, and I don't think a solid 5.9 leader would have trouble on it. The description here is pretty good, just a few things to add.

Locating the route is a bit challenging. The purple sling is still... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Good and Plenty (5.7)
By: Paul Zander When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: If you're a 5.7 leader or new leader, bring a 0.4 or 0.5 for the runout 2/3rds of the way up.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Outcroppings
By: Paul Zander When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: After about 10-15 minutes of walking down the trail, we encountered a junction with a large cairn. Left leads to the boyscout wall. Straight ahead leads to the outcroppings. I had a blast climbing the long pitches on the tall wall! Our party fixed a line at the top which made for quick single strand descents - everyone got to lead, and an easy double rope rap at the end of the day.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : Rupley Towers
By: Paul Zander When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: The sorting of routes here is a bit of a mess. Maybe there should be a north and south side? For people that don't have the guide - the beta on this site will be confusing due to missing routes and bad sorting. Get a copy of SQL III


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : R-1 (5.8+)
By: Paul Zander When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: I did a straight up variation to the first pitch which made more sense to me. There's a newer looking bolt about 4 feet right of the old bolt. Clip that, pull a tough move (might be 5.9?) onto a stance. Above looks runout, but I got a great green alien, and there are other options. Felt safe to me and no drag.

The finish to this climb is amazing - steep climbing up an exposed arete with positive holds and great gear.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Paul Zander When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: Baul Powron - a good starter rack would be a single set of metolius from 2-8. Or the equivalent in BD - 0.3-3. Plus nuts!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lady of the Knight (5.10+)
By: Paul Zander When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Yup, looking at the consensus rating details it looks like people generally agree with what I was thinking. It just gets confusing when you're out there using your phone and just go by the posted rating.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lady of the Knight (5.10+)
By: Paul Zander When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: I disagree with the posted ratings on this site which suggest .10C for Cornickopia, and .10 for Lady of the Knight. This climb has gotta be at least 2 letters grades hard than Cornickopia right?.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Bosch Survival Kit (5.10-)
By: Paul Zander When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: My favorite on this wall for sure. Strong 2 stars.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Aspen Gold (5.8+)
By: Paul Zander When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: Quite quality for the grade. Good rock, and many different sequences to choose from which will keep you thinking.

Probably not a great one to fall on mainly just because of the angle and ledges. Many of the routes on this wall have some spice getting to the chains in my opinion. On this one you could put in a #3 cam or something similar after the last bolt. Its probably only 8 feet from bolt to chains but you would hit a ledge if you fell.


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