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Member Since: Dec 30, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,023
Total Points: 820

35 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 600 | Routes 49 | Areas 10 | Approach Trails | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 61 | Posts 34 | Stars 407 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Three Tower Buttress > The Whiskey Bottle (5.11- R)
By: Paul S When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Rather than belaying from the notch, it worked well just to start from the ground on the south side and doing it in one pitch. I'd agree with the R rating, this was pretty scary. Aiding off the bolt then freeing to the top wasn't too bad difficulty or safety wise. If doing it all free though I would want to use a stick clip too, because you'd be doing the hard moves right off a ledge.


Location: Utah > Grand Staircase > Church > Organ Pipes Tower > The Pipe Cleaner (5.9 C2)
By: Paul S When: Dec 21, 2017

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Comments: We did Altar Boy as well and just did some exploring in the area. Really unique layout of the land there. We enjoyed your guys' routes!


Location: Utah > Grand Staircase > Church > Organ Pipes Tower > The Pipe Cleaner (5.9 C2)
By: Paul S When: Nov 28, 2017

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Comments: We did this the other week and while on top a large rock fall happened around the corner. We could feel the tower vibrate from it. Pretty scary!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Arch Canyon > Photo
By: Paul S When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: This is called 'The Trophy' and was first climbed back in 95 by Tim Toula, Scott Baxter, and Jim Thurmond. In Desert Rock IV the directions for this and T4 are mixed up. The route starts on the back side. Long 1st pitch that can be broken into two, with a scary upper half. Then a short run out face. Finally a long scary bolt ladder up the summit pinnacle.


Location: Utah > Grand Staircase > The Desert Wedding Site > Unwanted Guests > Unwanted Guests (5.10 C1) > Photo
By: Paul S When: Nov 25, 2016

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Comments: For this one, the line we took is to the right, with the little window at the top.


Location: Utah > Grand Staircase > The Desert Wedding Site > The Northern Groomsman > The Northern Groomsman (5.7 A2) > Photo
By: Paul S When: Nov 25, 2016

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Comments: The line we took actually goes up the seam to the right. Going up the dihedrel would of started out easily, but been diffficult to get into the crack system that goes to the top. So thin nailing it was!


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > The Weasel Formation > Ozymandias (5.8 C2)
By: Paul S When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: It was no problem..the bolts on the rap of the original route up the summit of the Weasel are still in good condition. They just needed webbing and some leaver biners.


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > The Weasel Formation > Ozymandias (5.8 C2)
By: Paul S When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: A friend and I climbed to this summit after doing James Garrett's route that goes to the main summit of the Weasel. We took the obvious block and choss filled chasm on the north west face. We planned on rapping this route's raps as described by Paul, but couldn't find the second set of rappel anchors. Instead it's possible to rap James Garrett's route which can be found by walking towards the main summit of the Weasel after the first rap and once you're at the base of ... more >>


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > The Weasel Formation > Belfry Tower. Brits in the ... (5.9 C1)
By: Paul S When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: It's possible to get to the ground in just two rappels on this one. One short one off the top, then a full 200' one to the ground.


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - South > Airport Towers > Hidden Tower (5.7 A1)
By: Paul S When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. This went clean pretty easily with a set of offset cams and a shoulder stand at the beginning. A 70 m rope will get you down.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Lavender Butte > Haggis Tower (5.8)
By: Paul S When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Someone beat me to the second ascent judging from the webbing at the top. I'm guessing I was the third or fourth.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Lavender Butte > Haggis Tower (5.8)
By: Paul S When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: A little more info on what I think was this route..after some scrambling the climb is steep hands that quickly goes to steep baggy fists. This leads to a giant chockstone that was pretty nerve racking to get around. The second pitch is a wide crack that's quite a bit easier than the first pitch. I wish I had more #4 camalots and a #5 or two. A fun climb, but felt a bit like a gamble getting around that block, which would be game over if it gave way. A double 60 m rope rappel gets you to... more >>


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Kane Springs Canyon > Hunter Canyon > Three towers > Huntsman Tower (5.10 C2)
By: Paul S When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: This goes clean at about C2. A few offset cams helped.


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > Head of Sinbad North > Hide Out Tower (5.9 C1)
By: Paul S When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: The slim flake on P2 is terrifying! It's probably 15' by 2' and just resting there. With every jam it would groan and flex. If I were to ever do it again I'd bring a few hooks and aid up to the right of it rather than risking bringing that all down again. On the plus side, P1 was fun and the summit amazing. I was rope solo and didn't have to worry about rope drag, but linking P2 & 3 seemed to make sense because the last pitch is so short and easy and it'd avoid an uncomfortable belay. You'... more >>


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Devil's Kitchen > Last Taco (5.11-)
By: Paul S When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: It's possible to continue to the top of this formation from the anchor. Climb past the bush in the crack and then you have two options, left or right. Either way, old, scary fixed protection will keep you company over mossy slab and face climbing. I went left. On top there's one old, sketchy bolt at the top of each variation. I opted to downclimb to the lower anchor and rap from there. A spicy little adventure extension for a little summit. An extra #1, #3, and two screamers/draws will be what y... more >>


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Sand Flats > Unknown Tower (Hidden Pleas...
By: Paul S When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This might be the Mexican Caulk Gun you're referring to. In High on Moab it mentions that it's 5.10+R A2. Though it didn't feel that hard and it does go clean.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Red Canyon > Supercrack Buttress > Super Crack of the Monument (5.10)
By: Paul S When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: If you park off of S. Camp Road before turning into the neighborhood that leads to the mouth of the canyon, you can hike up the wash that leads into the canyon. This adds 15 or so minutes of flat hiking to the approach if you were to park by the fancy houses right at the mouth of the canyon. A little frustrating to not be able to have better access, but it's a lot better than rapping in or approaching from Liberty Cap.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... > The Putterman Residence > Photo
By: Paul S When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: It was probably 150' or so left of the original line. I just C1'd up an ok crack, then I remember it being mostly a bunch of 4th class or easy 5th class to the different summits. Nothing special, but it was a fun little adventure with all the little summits up top. Nice job on those routes you put up. I was definitely just looking for the easy way up! I haven't done Hand of Puttima yet, but hope to tick it off soon.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... > The Putterman Residence > Photo
By: Paul S When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: I rope solo'd a more direct line that led to the huge ledge and then more or less followed the original pitches. So im guessing that webbing was mine..? I think I did it in the 2008 or 9 range. I remember not leaving any biners because I was gettting low after leaving some on other anchors that trip and figured by the time someone else climbed it the webbing would need to be replaced anyways!


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > McInnis Canyons > Pitchfork Tower - From the ... (5.8)
By: Paul S When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: There's now an anchor above the long OW corner that this route eventually joins. You can rap down this with a double rope rappel. It puts you directly back at the base, and you don't have to scramble down to it like the original anchor, but it does require two ropes.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Irishman's Temple > Le Veuve Noire (5.9 C1+) > Photo
By: Paul S When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Nice!! How was the jump? How about getting back across?


Location: Utah > Moab Area > 191 South > Joe Wilson Canyon > Queen's View- Standard Rout... (5.8 A2- PG13)
By: Paul S When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: A single 70m rope is enough to rappel down with. A brown tricam worked for the holes towards the top, but it was iffy! I was desperately wishing I had a #3 camalot instead of a #2 for the placement above the holes.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Hell Roaring Canyon > The Kachina Spires > Kachina Tower North (5.9 C1)
By: Paul S When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Instead of doing the awkward rappel to the notch, it's possible to do a double rope rappel to the ground. We equalized the single bolt with a knot that we slid into a little gash to the right of the bolt. It's a small little gash, but it held some bounce testing without blowing.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Photo
By: Paul S When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: If you're talking about the little arch in the upper left of the photo, then it's not quite a tower yet. There's actually a view point right up there. You could jump over the rails and be on the top of the arch.

As far as the splitter, it's undocumented, but it's been climbed before. I've heard that it's hard and wide.

If you're talking about the center tower, that's Defecating Monk. The popular route up that is on this site. The route that goes up the upper crack that can be seen in th... more >>


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit...
By: Paul S When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Yup, that's them.


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