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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Patrick Vernon

Point Rank: # 885
Total Points: 935

6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Patrick Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1162 | Routes 71 | Areas 7 | Approach Trails | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts 203 | Stars 416 | Ratings 329
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > J-Crack Slab Area > Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Hmm, the crux is getting to the finger jam, not incredibly hard but definitely a little scary, I couldn't get a very good RP, a fall off this move would not be great, if the RP ripped it would be disasterous. It's a little spicy after the crux also on .9+ terrain with bad RPs, but its over quickly and the upper .10+ climbing has good pro. A very fun pitch.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Temporary Like Achilles (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Escalar- Its interesting what you said about the origional start being to the left. Do you mean starting up the flake and going left up to the really thin crimps? Ive never done that and it always looked significantly harder than .10+, I just had a friend who did it the other day onsight on lead _im pretty sure it was this line and not farther left_, and said that he thought it was about .11c, im curious because the rossiter eldo guide can be a bit nebulous at times.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > D1 (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Steve, or anyone, I'm curious; has the joker ever seen a second free ascent? An onsight? It seems like one of the great free/trad challenges climbs of the front range (or america for that matter), yet I never hear of any climbers attempting to free it. It would be cool to see it onsighted some day.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Oceanic Wall > Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Interesting Doug, My first time on this route I had the same experience as you did, I recall a sort of diagonal jamming/handtraversing deal to get to a really bad diagonaling hold, it seemed way harder than .12a. I went back to the route and tried the crux differently, you undecling the right diagonaling holds and can stand up and avoid this reach, this way is at most .12a, probably about as hard as the beginning. Deceptive sequence.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > The Pages Wall Area > Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route felt like a definite sandbag to me, maybe .10c if you know the exact beta on it, however it is impossible to know what to do until your head pops over the roof and you don have long to look for the easiest sequence before your arms give out. Most climbers do a hard jamming, heel hook, belly flop move that feels more like .11a.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch of this feels quite hard for .11a, very cool footwork intensive crux.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Evangeline (5.11b A1)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Attempted to do these upper pitches today. I found the climbing quite nebulous, perhaps I didn't stare at the guidebook long enough, and eventually got off route and stumbled into Psycho in one long wandering yet exposed and fun lead. There is a bit of 5.10 right off the belay that is, for lack of a better word, spicy. You have to sling a hangerless quarter incher four feet out from the belay. The rest of the pitch (after where I broke over to psycho) seemed to be protected with a full museu... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Psycho (5.11a/b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did the left hand variation of this first pitch today known as wasabe. The roof on this is .12c (another onsight free solo for me;) however if you stop before the roof and traverse up and left to evangaline you have a nice .11b sporty route. This pitch is cool and sustained two star climbing. The second clip is a little peppery (spicy) as well as the first clip. This variation breaks left from the first bolt on psycho.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - S Face > The Metamorphosis (5.10-)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: From talking to other people, I think I may have screwed this pitch up, I believe I missed a cam placement after the crux. This would eliminate a 30ft runout and make it about a 10ft runout. I also meant to say "angle up and right" after the crux in the description. Whatever the case may be, be prepared for a relatively bold route, and a total classic. I don't often see people climbing on this wall, if you are up for these routes, they are among the best in Eldo.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock
By: Patrick Vernon When: Dec 5, 2017

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Comments: On the west side of the park about 1.5 miles up the East Inlet trail, there are a collection of large 5-800 foot buttresses. Does anyone know if there are routes on these? They appear chossy, but the rock is granite, and the middle one looks quite steep for about 600 feet, could hold some adventure climbing.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Fourth Flatiron > East Face/4th Flatiron (5.4 R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Nov 28, 2017

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Comments: I've never felt so dialed into slippery "5.4" groove climbing in my life! This route is well worth doing, long and adventurous with some less than obvious route finding. This feels harder than the Direct East Face on The First. There is a lot of lichen, you will probably get off route, and the downclimb off the summit is probably .10a. It is, however, long, fairly sustained at
the 5.4-5.6 grade with some really good bits, and you probably won't see anyone else which are all huge pluses in my bo... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > RMNP Bouldering Areas > Tyndall Gorge > ... > Lobster Tail (V4 PG13)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: Definitely not an FA. I did this years ago, pretty sure Potter and Belcer did this long before anyone else. Good problem!


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Friendship Boulders > Overbite Boulder > Chevy Express (V3-4 PG13)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: The problem shown here is probably V3 and not R rated.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Friendship Boulders > Smuggler's Cove > Drunken Sailor aka Shit Fir... (V3)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: We always called this one Shit Fire, good problem and V3 feels about right. Smuggler's Cove is on the other side of Y property about a mile away near the zipline.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Ariana (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jul 19, 2017

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Comments: If you are a wimp like me and like to sew things up, I would recommend triples to #1 Camalot size for the .11c pitch. This pitch eats finger and hand-size pieces, plenty of good placements but very easy to run out of gear.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Jules Verne (5.11b R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: May 25, 2017

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Comments: Thought the runout on this was pretty exciting. The fall is decent size and not particularly clean. The climbing is balancy, definitely a pitch you want to be ready for. The rotten band felt like 5.8+ X, gear is pretty sparse there. The money pitch is one of the best pitches in Eldo just purely in terms of the quality of climbing. Excellent, tricky, dihedral climbing to an utterly amazing section of face climbing made even more classic by history, mystique, and the river rushing below you.


Location: New Mexico > Albuquerque Area Climbing > Sandia Mountains > Echo Canyon
By: Patrick Vernon When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: Mike,

Date With Death is fairly obvious from the base of Bush Shark Spire. Look down canyon about a quarter mile to a shaded attractive shear panel of rock with a thin looking crack splitting it. The route has at least two repeats since Cody's ascent. My partner was able to set a toprope by soloing in from the left to above the climb and rapping down to the anchors above the climb. It sounded super sketchy. Another option would be to aid it and set a top rope. The most dangerous part ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center Route > Aerial Book (5.11a PG13)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Dec 24, 2016

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Comments: I think this pitch definitely deserves a PG-13 rating. This is far from sewn up through the crux. It is committing and insecure climbing above small gear. Even when you get the jug on the left in the dihedral, there is another 10 feet of .10a with slick feet and no pro. Probably low probability for injury in a fall off the stemming crux, but this is no clip up! I only had one #3 RP and had to punch it above a so so #2. Classic Eldo climbing, one of the nicest .11a pitches in the canyon.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Yellow Wall (5.11b R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I submitted the 5.10 version of Yellow Wall back in early 2000 to the database when MP had about 10 users and we had no idea what the site would become. I got a lot of flack later when the website became more popular for not including the A4 traverse and the description was updated as it should have been. I finally got out yesterday and did the direct 5.11 start and A4 traverse pitch both for the first time.

The 5.11 start isn't too bad, two distinct cruxes down low and about 60 feet up. B... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > The Enchanted Tower > North (Left) Face > Rumplestiltskin (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Tried to rest by sitting on the midway ledge like my partner and wound up wasting more energy than it was worth. Super fun route!


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > The Enchanted Tower > West (Center) Face > Zee Wicked Witch (5.12c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: You can jam your head in the hole at the midway anchors and take weight off your arms. Never done that before, 5 stars for sure!


Location: New Mexico > Socorro Area > The Box Climbing Areas > Northern Box areas > Filet de Papillon Wall (aka... > Sinister Dane (5.13b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments:


Some choppy video of a recent send.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > Castleton Tower > North Face (5.11-)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: Did this the other day with 3 #3 camalots. It was a little scary and I wound up having to do alot of jostling and sliding but it worked out. You can occasionally place a 2 along the way and I left a 4 lower on the pitch. If I did it again I would bring 4 #3's, 3 #2's and the four. Excellent route. To reiterate the last post, there are no issues rapping this route with a 70. Do a shorter first rappel of 50 feet to climbers left from the anchor on top that looks like it was taken from a medi... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velve... > Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: Incredible route, one of the best I have ever done. The climbing is varied and excellent. The first four pitches go pretty quickly. For the first pitch I wandered up ledgy terrain left of the mentioned dihedral and right of the bushes eventually meeting a beefy bolt on some 5.8 terrain. The rest of the pitches were pretty straight forward route finding wise.

The 9th pitch felt hard for the grade, even harder than the North Face on Castleton which I did several days prior. This is probably... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Sentinel Rock > Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: Amazing adventure route. Strategy wise we hiked up the day before to stash gear and find the start. I felt this was a good call as the start is not obvious. The route ascends the right side of the large pillar, not the left as we initially thought. The first pitch is wide and has a slung chockstone you can see from the base ledge. From here, with the supertopo topo, we didn't have any other route finding issues even on the descent.

This route is time consuming with many memorable pitches. ... more >>


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