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Member Since: Oct 28, 2010
Last Visit: Jan 12, 2017
Contact Patrick Callery

Point Rank: # 15,022
Total Points: 20

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Patrick Callery been climbing?










Contributions


All 29 | Routes 2 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

White Dihedral

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (2)

Trad, 2 pitches, 250'

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Cyanide Gully

May 19, 2013

The White Spider

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R (9)

Trad, 1 pitch, 150'

California : Central Coast : ... : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

May 19, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Ugly Duckling (5.9)
By: Patrick Callery When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1 of Ugly Duckling is the best pitch of climbing on this wall, IMO. Varied movement, multiple cruxes (each well-protected), and much less of the crispy-hold face climbing found on the other nearby routes. Second pitch is also pretty good with a couple tricky moves and then cruiser right up a nice arete. Could climb this as a single pitch, but might get a little draggy up top.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Patrick Callery When: Oct 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I can't believe this route sat untouched for so many years. Thanks Andy & Matthew for replacing the bolts and giving me that first lead...


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : King Snake Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Patrick Callery When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The natural spot to belay is on the wide ledge left of 4th bolt, where the crack starts (this is below and left of Tender Flakes anchor). However this will require some creative gear placements for a secure anchor. Bring extra small cams.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : Bit by Bit (5.8 PG13)
By: Patrick Callery When: Aug 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm pretty sure we climbed this route (p1 only)... after slab approach (1 bolt) and low-angle flakes (gear available), it was 4 bolts up steep knobs, and felt like solid 5.9. About 150'


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Spooky (5.9)
By: Patrick Callery When: Jul 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Very good route, with great variety... I'd have enjoyed it even more if I had brought doubles in red and green camalots for the thin hands first pitch! Though labeled as "easier", I found the face climbing just above the offwidth to be the psychological crux - airy, balancy, thought-provoking.

You can rap to the base of the route from the Charlatan summit with two single-rope raps (60m rope)... a good bolt anchor is found at the base of the offwidth.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : Pepasan (5.9+)
By: Patrick Callery When: Dec 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: No bolts on top, good cracks take #1-#2 and #4 cams for an anchor. You can downclimb the 5.2 chute to the left or walk over to the W.A.C. anchors to rap down.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : AFPA Rock : Andromeda Strain (5.7)
By: Patrick Callery When: Dec 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The route is closer to 100' if climbing to good anchors near the top. Spraying aside, be prepared for a cruxy start and then easy climbing to the bolt. True crack start is tricky and also worthwhile.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : AFPA Rock : Which Bitch (5.9)
By: Patrick Callery When: Dec 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good route with really nice stemming work. Pro is tricky and not always the best, as noted before. Note if setting this up for TR, a 60m will only reach if you walk a few meters up the initial groove to start the belay.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : The Last Dihedral (5.8 PG13)
By: Patrick Callery When: Oct 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The undercling traverse at top of p1 is super cool... but you are standing on an enormous layer of exfoliating slab. All sorts of cams go in the crack above but they may not hold a fall. It's a fun route.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.9- PG13)
By: Patrick Callery When: Oct 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A couple notes: approach trail is in pretty good shape, not hard to follow. The start is more like 1/4 mile up the road from the parking area, look for an old stump with a duck on it.

On p3, climbing out of the alcove to the right, it's easy to get your rope pinched. I'm wondering if anyone has tried climbing the cool looking arete on the left side of the chasm... looks super fun and mellow, but maybe difficult to access and sparse pro.

Also sending a little love for p6, I thought it was ... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Lower Brother : Positively 4th Street (5.9)
By: Patrick Callery When: May 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Linked p1-2... wished I had a couple more #0.75 camalots. The roof is great, and the steep 5.7 LB start felt pretty heady for the grade. This is a great pitch!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : ... : The Caverns (5.8)
By: Patrick Callery When: May 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun route. Awesome splitter hands and layback on p2. We traversed over dirt ledges to the base of the caverns on p3. Chimney the first ~30' of the cavern and stepped left back into the corner at a big tree. Following the corner up and back across the top of the cavern felt like the headiest climbing on the route...


Location: Nevada : Southern Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10b)
By: Patrick Callery When: Apr 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is the best single pitch of climbing I've done in Red Rocks. The splitter hands below the traverse is incredible, just too short.
We ran a single pitch to the good ledge just below the chimney, seemed closer to 180'. Rope drag was not too bad. Took a full double rack with extra #1, 2, 3 and do not regret carrying it all. We used a #4 on the 2nd pitch, but not necessary if you don't mind running it out on easy offwidth.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : ... : Skywalker (5.8)
By: Patrick Callery When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We linked p1-2 with a 60m (some rope drag) and finished up the EPB variation for a 2-pitch route. EPB is very good and should not be missed.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Permanent Income Hypothesis 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Central Coast : ... : Right Side Gully

Positively 4th Street 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Lower Brother

Ugly Duckling 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Central Coast : ... : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...

The White Spider 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

California : Central Coast : ... : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

White Dihedral 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Cyanide Gully

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Charlotte's Web

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

North America : Canada : ... : Conroy's Castle

Dream Easy

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area

30 Seconds Over Potash

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Utah : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

North Chimney

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Utah : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

Ugly Duckling

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Central Coast : ... : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...

Permanent Income Hypothesis

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Central Coast : ... : Right Side Gully

Tender Flakes of Mercy

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Central Coast : ... : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...

King Snake Crack

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Central Coast : ... : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...

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