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Member Since: May 21, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Patrick Betts

Point Rank: # 2,665
Total Points: 215

5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Patrick Betts been climbing?










Contributions


All 516 | Routes 4 | Areas 2 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 23 | Stars 347 | Ratings 86

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Putterman on the Throne : Supercalifragilisticexpiali... (5.10+ C1)
By: Patrick Betts When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It is very possible to rap from the summit to the top of pitch 1 with a single 70m. It is exactly 35m, though and you end up on the ledge on the east side, 15ft north of the anchor. I felt, though, that that walk was fine unroped. The pull was easy.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Culvert Canyon : Golden Nugget Spire (aka Ha... : Chimney Route (5.9)
By: Patrick Betts When: Apr 8, 2017

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Comments: Great tower. The drilled angle is the best piece of fixed pro on the tower. no need to worry there. The summit had 3 bolts, 1 came out by hand today. One bolt is good; the other is in between good and mediocre but this is to be expected in crappy cap-rock like that. Great climbing, otherwise!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Patrick Betts When: Apr 7, 2017

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Comments: Did it in two pitches and am happy that we did it that way. It is possible to rap from pitch 1 anchors all the way to the ground with a double rope rappel. This skips rapping into the chimney and using the slung chockstone. The pull was easy and the rope fell all the way to the ground.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Kyle's Tower : 1950 DA (5.10 R)
By: Patrick Betts When: Mar 17, 2017

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Comments: Definitely not as bad as the description makes it sound and not nearly run out. There are 5 bolts on the climb. You do have to climb the 5.9 OW at the bottom for 10-15 feet with no gear then traverse over (on very easy terrain) with no gear. But after that the climb is pretty well protected for a chimney. 3 bolts at the crux OW/Squeeze section in the middle one more on 4th class terrain then the last comes in the chimney to the anchors. Definitely loose and sandy in spots but I found Abraxis Tow... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Friction Slab : The Turner Prize Tower (5.8 C1)
By: Patrick Betts When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: Here is some better gear beta: Singles .3 to 4.0, 12 quick draws, aiders, and 10 or so hangers or nuts for slinging studs (they do have nuts and washer but were very difficult to turn by hand). Out of the 12 or so bolts only 2 had hangers (1 and 4?).

Fun and quick little tower!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Homer and Marge : Chili Cook Off (5.5 C1)
By: Patrick Betts When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: All the bolts had hangers except the first one in Feb 2017. Makes for an easy romp up a tower.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Kachina Tower South (5.8 C0)
By: Patrick Betts When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: The last drilled angle of the bolt ladder came out by hand today; it's no longer there. If you head to do this tower and are equipped to replace hardware it would be a good idea to add a bolt or place a new angle.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Front Side aka El Toro : ... : 5am Breakfast (5.10b)
By: Patrick Betts When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Decently fun route; especially the last 35 meters. However, you just might end up spending more time hiking and scrambling then you will climbing the route,


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Front Side aka El Toro : ... : Off The Couch (5.10d)
By: Patrick Betts When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: Really great climb. I definitely thought Off the Couch was better than Satori. Doing both in a day is also the way to do it; makes for an excellent 12 pitch day.

Found no loose/suspect/worrisome rock after the second 5.8 pitch.


Location: Idaho : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Regular Route (5.6)
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: No topos available as of 10/22/13.

Here is the beta from our ascent yesterday.

Park at the second pullout on your left after crossing the creek via the bridge. Follow a well worn trail downhill; cross the river; and up hill to the base of slick rock.

The regular route (as we climbed it):
Pitch 1: starts at the base of an obvious 90' left facing flake/corner. Climb this and at the top of the flake traverse up and right unprotected across dikes to a two bolt anchor. 50m, 5.6... more >>


Location: Idaho : McCall Area : Slick Rock
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: No topo at the Ponderosa State Park VC, The National Forest office in town or Gravity Sports as of 10/22/13. An upload would be great.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Patrick Betts When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: I wasn't sure where the start of the route really began, and I could not see the first pitch belay slings from the ground, so I just picked a line and went. I ended up starting straight below the first pitch belay slings. You start by pulling a small roof while traversing up and left on chickenheads; then once you've surmounted the roof, you climb lichen covered slab until you get to blocky, red rock, a fixed pin, and then to the slung hole for the first pitch anchors. I thought this w... more >>


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Midget Toss (5.11b/c)
By: Patrick Betts When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: A bolt has been added (when, I don't know) to ease that runout - although the runout is not spicy at all. Great route, not slimy, eases up in the middle, stay left of the bolt line at the top to keep the difficulty.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this last week, and it's quite stellar. Was not nearly as involved and comitting as this page makes it come off as.

After pitch 1 (belay in a large waterstreak with good belay seats right next to a left-facing dihedral), just climb up 8 feet or so above the belay and make a right traverse under a rooflette, pop around the arete, and boogie up and left along the arete. I thought this was straightforward and that the route finding was neither complicated or hard.

I ended up linking pitch... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Solarian (5.10+)
By: Patrick Betts When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday, 10/15. Great climb. Pitch 1 was the hardest pitch, for me, out of the three. Consists of hard slab and the pitch pretty much stays in your face the entire 130 feet. We got sun on pitch 3 right around 3:30pm.

To reiterate, definitely watch your gear placements on the crux roof on pitch 3 to avoid slicing your rope - especially if your second may or may not flash the roof. We suffered a (small) core shot even though our gear placements couldn't have been much better.

We r... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.8)
By: Patrick Betts When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it again yesterday, 9/21, and did the finger crack variation on pitch 4. Stellar. With having done both options, the finger crack variation is definitely the way to go, in my opinion. Used just a #1 and 0.75 in the finger crack and that's it for the pitch. It does eat up gear though. Do it!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.8)
By: Patrick Betts When: Jun 20, 2012

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Comments: It's good to note that, personally, I believe the lower you traverse on pitch 3 the easier it is. However, you better be comfortable with a 40ft traverse on 5.7/5.8 slab. It seems the higher up the dihedral you wait, the more water-worn the slab gets. My 2-cents. Great climb!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Patrick Betts When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: Found the directions to Helen's Dome to be a bit confusing and possible incorrect. But again, it could have been just me. We never did find Molly Gulch Campground, and I feel that this could be attributed to the fact that the NFS closed this campground? Either way, we drove all the way to the ranch and never found a campground. So, we just parked due west of the dome and walked from there.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: Patrick Betts When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: Did this route a few days ago. Very fun route! Missing a few hangers on pitches 4, 5, and 6. Just one on each pitch, though on very very easy (5.4, 5.5) terrain.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Out-of-Towners Dome : El Cautivo (5.9)
By: Patrick Betts When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this a week or so ago. A pretty fun route. If you end up at the base of Wasteland, it is advised to go back down and continue to Out of Towners instead of trying to cut straight across - or the approach could take you 3 hours.

A few spots (only on p2 & p3) were pretty stout for 5.9, as compared to other friction climbing I've done in Colorado and elsewhere.

Pitch 1 and 4 were the most enjoyable with 3 & 4 having the few 5.9 crux moves.

Climb on!


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