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Member Since: Jan 16, 2011
Last Visit: Jan 15, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Owen McGrath been climbing?


All 8 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books Area : ... : Selaginella (5.8)
By: Owen McGrath When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route on 4/7/12. This was a great intro to long offwidth routes as I've traditionally shied away.

Pitch 1 is the most strenuous, though every wide section is soon met with rests. We brought a #5 camelot, placed it once but IMHO it wasn't really needed. One #4 should do the trick. Pitch 2 has a short bit of off fists, but it's over after 20 feet. The pitch 3 chimney protects well and has hands in the back.

I also made the pitch 3 traverse way harder than it needs to b... more >>

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Super Slide (5.9)
By: Owen McGrath When: Jan 17, 2012

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Comments: Climbed on 1/15/11. Beautiful, and totally worth the two boring first pitches. 1st anchor bolts are gone. Pitches 3-4 linkup beautifully. Crux on P5 is spicy wide fingers for a short while at the very end. Otherwise very manageable, and rather soft for valley 5.9.

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Super Slide (5.9)
By: Owen McGrath When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Anyone have any beta on rapping the route with a single 70M rope, stopping at the anchors on pitch 4 on the way?

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: Owen McGrath When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Did this climb on 11/22 and really enjoyed it. For those that complain that the climb is monotonous, they clearly should have known that it would be that way from the ground. I loved the sustained crimping, edging and high stepping moves. The small crack sections on pitches 3, 4, and 5 offered some occasional finger jams to still keep things interesting. A great sustained burn up Black Velvet. My only complaint was that it was cold in November.

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: Owen McGrath When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Did this route on 11/25/11 and really enjoyed it. We followed the 11 pitch description on Supertopo, using the bolted anchors on the first two pitches. We simul-climned 4-7, which went by quickly (never had to catch up and trade gear). Pitch 8 is really the gem of the route with the wild exposure and dihedral stemming moves before moving to chimney moves. While low angle, pitch 10 does keep you breathing with some burly lieback moves. Beautiful topout for lunch and a pretty straightforward desce... more >>

Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Rampage (5.10c)
By: Owen McGrath When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: Beware of the tree. Took a fall on July 12, just before 3rd bolt and swung against it on the way down. One of the branches had recently been pruned, leaving behind a sharp edge. The result was 27 undesired stitches on my thigh and three weeks of no climbing.

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Gorgeous (5.10b)
By: Owen McGrath When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Really beautiful climb. Pretty slick down low, and then interesting as it moves back and fourth over the arrete a few times. This being at my upper limits on lead, the runout at the end (20'?) raised my pulse a bit...

Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : West Side : The Balconies : Lava Falls (5.9 R)
By: Owen McGrath When: Jan 16, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed the first pitch today. Didn't make the second as we were benighted.

Bolts are really solid, except at the crux, place extra slings on nobs or be ready for a decent whipper.

All told, an amazing climb. Great stemming route, and an even more epic view.

Was my first time to Pinnacles. Can't wait to get back.

Also, anyone have beta for those wanting to camp and climb only on the West Side? Is it cool to leave a car overnight and trek to campground on the east side? Anyone tried ... more >>

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