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Member Since: Oct 6, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Areas = 15
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PitchesRoutesBouldersDays on Rock
past month19902
3 months482506
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Name Rating Location Comments Tick Date

Classic

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends

Lead / Onsight. Beautiful climb, great warm-up. Not nearly as scary to lead as I'd thought, the pins are great, flakes fun, and boy that roof is fantastic! 70m rope lets you set it up as a very fun TR for people. Happily do again.

Nov 19, 2016

Baby

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Follow. Rodrigo's first time on Baby; he did great. The crux this time was WAY easier than last time, I'm glad I can see how much I've grown as a climber, really flew through it. Also, another great TR climb.

Nov 19, 2016

Rhododendron

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Follow. Cleaned this route for Rodrigo as a cool-down after the Apoplexy lead. This is a great little jaunt, good for repeating and newish climbers. Also, really great pro.

Nov 19, 2016

Apoplexy

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Lead / Onsight. NOW A 5.9 LEADER-intense and amazing! Creaky flake easy until a nut on gearloop got stuck while I pulled above it. Were 3 harrowing min of no feet, single hand holding, while other tried to free nut. Crux higher up great, thoughtful, wished Violet for pro

Nov 19, 2016

Bunny

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Follow. Cleaned in the dark-great last climb of the evening. Rodrigo lead well-turned on headlamp, and zoomed up it. Still an amazing route to set a TR on for others.

Nov 19, 2016

Erect Direction

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Lead. Took Erik up it to get to CCK today; still such an amazing climb, just a joy. More blocks with X's on them than I remember, but still great to protect and to move. Best way to get to CCK for sure.

Nov 13, 2016

Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Lead. Was open on a beautiful Sunday; such a joy to climb. Someone got a Blondie stuck in the flake when a Clifford is the obvious choice. Grrr. Erik loved this climb, so glad I got to take him on it. And he got pictures of me!

Nov 13, 2016

Hans' Puss

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

2 pitches. Lead. DAMN HANS PUSS! Stymied again! This time, overshot the first pitch traverse to the chains by 15ft and couldn't downclimb safely so had to downclimb over the chains. Became a SNAFU at the chains (5 people at the hanging belay) so rapped from there.

Nov 13, 2016

Andrew

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 (4 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Follow. Erik's first lead!!! He did great, little bit of work on the gear, but was an awesome first lead for him, so proud. One of these days, I'll make it past the first pitch...

Nov 13, 2016

Groovy

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Lead / Onsight. Wow wow wow! This is a great climb, short, fast, and super intense. Protects very well (I put in 4 pieces before the top travese). Don't know how you'd jam, but this is an awesome, heart pumping climb. Great stemming, instense crux. Loved.

Nov 8, 2016

Limelight

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Lead / Onsight. Wow, great warm up, hard climb, good fun. Pro thin on P1, and after crux on P2 (there is that pin). Fun flakes on P1, and pulling the crux on P2 is thoughtful and great. Definitely worth repeating.

Nov 8, 2016

Ursula

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Follow. Rodrigo did a great job leading this climb. Gets easier, but just as fun each time I do it.

Nov 8, 2016

Jane

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends

Lead / Onsight. Good warmup for a chilly morning. Plentiful pro, fun moves on easy rock. Traverse at the top is fun and can set up a top rope for your second from the rappel tree.

Oct 29, 2016

Land's End (Direct)

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Lead. Did not finish (backed off). First/only piece I got in was under the flake system in a flaring crack on smallest totem basic. Did not trust, and can't figure out how to get up to the flakes to start going up. Pulled the piece; want to repeat.

Oct 29, 2016

Snooky's Return

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Lead / Onsight. Fantastic microcrack climb! Did the P1 5.8 variation straight up the crack. Great pro; lots of small/tiny nuts, but fun. P2 was great fun too, though did not feel 5.8 to me. Did P3, glad we did, don't need to repeat; Wrist is a better blind corner pull.

Oct 29, 2016

Finger Locks or Cedar Box

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Lead / Onsight. Erik's first mock lead! Set it up for him; big hard for a 5.5 if you don't know how to crack climb (which I don't). But a fun climb with great pro. Worth doing again (which I did to check Erik's gear)

Oct 29, 2016

Absurdland

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Lead / Onsight. Amazing climb, really enjoyed it. Very tough, but fantastic pro. Feet always there, tough as hell climb, but will happily lead again. Fell once at the start, lowered to ground, then up in one go. Do again and again.

Oct 23, 2016

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Lead / Redpoint. Still a fantastic climb. Easy to pro, great to bring a noob up on. Linked P2/3, though tried going up too early for P2; watch out for that. Great fun.Took Maxim up on it.

Oct 23, 2016

Alley Oop

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Lead. Dan fractured his ankle leading this. Lead it to clean his gear and made to top. Still a very fun climb, no longer scary at all. Pulling the crux, so exposed at the top, good fun. Took Raffi and Maxim after getting Dan to the ranger.

Oct 23, 2016

Alley Oop

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Lead. Lead again cause Raffi and Maxim didn't follow the route and missed cleaning Big Blue. So had to relead just to get my damn gear back. Still fun, though much less graceful the second time today for some reason.

Oct 23, 2016

Sleepwalk

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

What a difference 2 years make! such an easy, great climb, would be an awesome warm-up for ant's line or Bonnie's. really enjoy the arete and the slab of this line.

Sep 16, 2016

Ent Line

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

good fun, but so damn tiring. Got way higher this time before falling. 1 move away from finishing the 5.10 section, good fun indeed.

Sep 16, 2016

Shockley's Ceiling

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Such a great climb, so smooth to pull the move now, good pro, grab the roof, power hump the leg up. Great fun, Erik really liked.

Sep 16, 2016

Strictly From Nowhere

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

love this as a 2nd pitch to get to Shockly's! Took a bit more work to protect the roof for some reason. got lost on 3rd pitch, wandered over to Shockly's servos pitch to get up. Just go straight up to do it right.

Sep 16, 2016

Oscar and Charlie

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

much improved first pitch; calm, very well protected, great first pitch of the day

Sep 16, 2016

Betty

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends

Lead / Onsight. Ended the night with this easy one. Strung P1/P2 together, go straight up using chimney. A great climb for new people, fun, not scary. I think I placed 7 pieces of pro in the 150ft.

Aug 30, 2016

Ants' Line

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Follow. Followed Paul, finished a 9 clean at the gunks! Amazing, beautiful line, a MUST LEAD. Found the hidden jug by accident. Fantastic, though I'm sure will be scary to lead!

Aug 30, 2016

High Exposure

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Follow. Followed Paul up all the pitches to warm up, first two pitches run together, third pitch still money and fun. Great warm-up when the cliff is empty.

Aug 30, 2016

Bonnie's Roof

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Lead / Fell/Hung. My first 9!!! What a line. Got to crux, feet hurt too much to keep going, took, pulled shoes off, then finished the climb clean! #3 goes in blind at the crux, amazing! Will return and get clean!

Aug 30, 2016

Oscar and Charlie

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Lead / Flash. Finally led first pitch to get to Shockly's; oh man, as scary a first pitch as I thought it would be. Hard, but best way to start. Did it as a warm-up, man-o-man. Good fun.

Aug 19, 2016

Strictly From Nowhere

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Lead / Flash. Great second pitch to get to Shockly's. Talk about an awesome roof, though a bit harder on lead than following. But awesome. Quality climbing and roof with great pro.

Aug 19, 2016

Shockley's Ceiling

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Lead / Flash. Finally off the damn list. So, SOOO much easier than I thought it would be. Built a damn anchor before pulling the roof; thought it was going to be way harder, so much fun!

Aug 19, 2016

Overhanging Layback

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Follow. Great, hard climb. Protecting layback hard, caught Dan's fall. Remember to use the layback! Belay pain in the ass! 2nd pitch a must do; look up and right for bomber jub to pull roof.

Aug 19, 2016

The Fire Swamp

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall

Lead / Pinkpoint. Lead this in a lightning storm that started one bolt from the top. Fun climb, early fall is an ankle-breaker (get to 3rd clip!) Harder, thin moves at the bottom, and deep, jug pockets when you need them at the top. Good fun, maybe not in lightning.

Jun 27, 2016

Original Face Route

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Winter Wall

Lead / Onsight. Good warm-up to get used to this rock. Fun little jaunt; nothing too hard.

Jun 26, 2016

Hellboy

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Winter Wall

Lead / Pinkpoint. Great 5.8 climb. 165ft of never letting up. Tiring, but the climbing is great, and the pro is good. Rest before you try the second half. Good stances, a little wandery for me, but totally fun and worth doing!

Jun 26, 2016

Post Moderate

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Winter Wall

Lead / Pinkpoint. Fricken amazing! Sustained, solid climbing. Pro can be a bit scary, but it's all there. If lead it in one go, expect some crazy rapping to clean all the lower draws. Pulling the crux at the top, just do the damn pullup!

Jun 26, 2016

Clean Energy

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Winter Wall

Lead / Fell/Hung. Unique climb with some crazy angles you have to trust your feet on. Got to crux, pulled the wrong side-pull. Took, then got it right and sent the rest. Shoulda been clean, but still really fun and really different style. After 3rd bolt, can't see partner.

Jun 26, 2016

Packrat Dihedral

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area

Lead / Onsight. Lead P1, Dan P2. Great warm-up pitch to get used to the rock. Dihedral was fun, new style of climbing. Took down the horrible rap anchor on the loose rock; if that fall didn't kill you, the rock sure as hell would.

Jun 25, 2016

The Big "E"

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area

Lead / Onsight. Beautiful climb! Lead both P1/P2. Great moves to attain the crack on P1, and P2 is just some beautiful climbing to the top. Great fun, a must do.

Jun 25, 2016

Planet of the Apes

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall

Lead / Pinkpoint. Great climb, fun arette at the end. This one was a blast to do, with some nice exposed moves near the end.

Jun 24, 2016

As You Wish

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall

Lead / Redpoint. Scary, hard start, total headcase for me. Thought it was a 5.8, so surprising. Good once past second bolt. Fell 2 times getting to second bolt, before starting from bottom and getting it.

Jun 24, 2016

Pejos Route

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall

Lead / Pinkpoint. Fun way to end the night. Did the climb in the dark with a full moon after Dan lead it. Nice, but moves on good rock.

Jun 24, 2016

V-3

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Lead / Onsight. Awesome climb! Took a moment to figure out how to throw a shoulder in the V, but solid. Bomber nut placement to pull in the V. Remember, the next holds are on the RIGHT (not left) at the top of the notch!

May 29, 2016

Middle Earth

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Lead. Pitch 9-12 on mileage day, fricken flew up this thing. Feel so much stronger as a climber; this is a fun route, link P1/P2 together, P3 is the fun route, and pulling up, no problem at all this time. And learned to simulrappel!!!

May 1, 2016

Wisecrack

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Lead / Onsight. Intense early crux, but great doing real crack moves! Once I got the high right foot, pulling the alcove top as great fun. Ran P1/P2 together. P3, had to jump to reach the hold to start. Good fun, don't skip.

Apr 30, 2016

Alley Oop

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Follow. Stronger for sure. Followed Paul on our first climb of milage day. So much easier. Again, DON'T DO P2/P3, mucky ground. Lost Pain in the Ass, very sad, but that cam rotated and became permanently in the rock on P3, so maybe it'll never be found.

Apr 30, 2016

Bombs Away Dream Baby

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

Follow. Third climb of mileage day with Paul. Man, getting stronger. No problem with the roof this time! So much better at seeing holds, the roof was great fun now, thoughs till scary to protect.

Apr 30, 2016

City Lights

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Lead / Onsight. Wow, P1 was intense! Hard start till I got the feet; the triangles seem easy, but then you have to move past them, and it's some trickey, but fun climbing till the horizontals. Turns out I'm not such a fan of 5.6R runout... Didn't do P2 this time.

Mar 26, 2016

Maria

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Lead / Onsight. P1 still meh, P2 still great fun. P3, while still scary, pulling that roof is so much easier now. I can feel self improving. Just commit and move.

Mar 26, 2016

Son of Easy O

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Lead / Onsight. WOW WOW WOW! Most intense, scary lead I've done so far. Gear is bomber, but the climb is so intense! P1 is just awesome, no letting up, hard climbing, loved it. P2 is jug haul, felt like a 5.6, my kind of climb! Next time, link P1/2 as one go.

Mar 26, 2016

No Picnic

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Lead / Onsight. I'm about 74.6% sure I did this route right... It was more fun than I expected, but not really sure of the route. Wandered with a 15ft traverse left, then up, then right again, then up. Fun, but nothing to write home about.

Mar 26, 2016

High Exposure

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Lead / Onsight. Took Erik up the $ pitch, loved it!. So smooth to pull now, I can do it literally sitting, so no stress. Jugs haul to finish fun.

Mar 13, 2016

50-50

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Lead / Onsight. First pitch a bit sketchy, never figured out where it ended; linked P1/P2 together to GTL. Skippable.

Mar 12, 2016

Blistered Toe

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar...

Lead / Onsight. Wow! P1 amazing, technical, hard, a bit scary, and really great. Good pro, awesome crack climb, really great. Lead P2, but not worth repeating. Just rap from P1.

Mar 12, 2016

Andrew

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 (4 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Lead / Onsight. Only had time to do P1, good fun, good pro (though sometimes ran it out a bit much). Good for first time followers or warm up. Want to finish.

Mar 12, 2016

The Last Will Be First

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Lead / Onsight. Great first climb of the season. Hard, committing moves over gear, a bit heady, but really good fun! P2's roof pull is cool too.

Mar 9, 2016

Ursula

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Lead / Flash. Finally lead P2. Very heady and pumpy in the beginning, but awesome jug haul, a must repeat!

Mar 9, 2016

Updraft

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Lead / Onsight. Lead P2, wicked cool! Pulling the corner over the CCK anchor spot is scary as hell, very freaky, but the chimney is not to be missed! Hard, fun climbing, and a bit different for the Gunks.

Mar 9, 2016

Erect Direction

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Lead / Onsight. Led P1 again for Dan. Still an amazing climb. Start is getting smoother, still hard, but great pro, and such a easy climb to fall in love with. There is no better approach to CCK!

Mar 9, 2016

Sixish

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Great climb again to take some newbies on; linked P1/2, good fun, but hard to hear. P3 was great, now both traverse and roof were easy. Good fun all around.

Dec 12, 2015

Wrist

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Finally lead P1. Great little climb once you get to the crack. Did it as a layback. Needed a #4, Big Blue meant huge runout, but still great climb. P2 was as fun as ever, but tons of drag.

Dec 12, 2015

Drunkard's Delight

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Linked P1/2; start of P1 is scary as hell, that's PG13 for sure! Rest of climb is beautiful. Great gear and moves. Roof to start P2, best 5.6 roof in the gunks, just amazing! Skip P3, boring.

Dec 6, 2015

Erect Direction

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Led P1 (5.8) pitch as my warmup to get to CCK. What an awesome pitch! Great moves, good gear, heady early, but just an awesome way to start CCK!

Nov 22, 2015

Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

I finally did it! The money pitch! Amazing! Gear is bomber, just need to trust those feets! Also, when the going gets tough, the though do pullups! Absolutely incredible climbing, and must do and do again!

Nov 22, 2015

Strictly From Nowhere

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Led P3 after Dan lead P1/P2 of Oscar Charlie. Good, fun lead after the roof. Want to lead Oscar/Charlie now!

Nov 7, 2015

Anguish

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

This is a burly climb! Fantastic/hard moves, the whole thing is aggressive; pro is somewhat adequate. P1 pulling out of book, just wow! P3, pulling crux on a pin, no way. Took, backed up, then mighty pull. Around corner, ball smasher! Then 5.6 R to top.

Nov 7, 2015

Credibility Gap

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Lead P2 after Dan lead P1 (totally off route for the second half, skipped the whole corner/exit), P2 fun, little dirty, loose blocks when pulling the crux, so watch out; but worth doing indeed.

Nov 7, 2015

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Led P1 as a warm-up. What a difference time makes; no hesistaiton, no delay, just right up it for Dan to finally lead it (and he did beautifully).

Oct 31, 2015

Mr. P's Wurst

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Spicy climb, but great. Scrambled up P1; unclear where it ends and P2 begins. P2 not an 8, until it is at the jugs! Build a true hanging belay to bring up Dan. P3 was really fun, good committing moves; next time, will try P2/P3 in one pitch!

Oct 31, 2015

Dry Martini

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Shouldn't be alive. Lead P2, good lead, solid 5.7 climb, liked it. Dan lead P1/3. Rap almost killed us. Intermidiate rap was two old pins that bounced in the rock the whole way down. We left behind gear to back it up. Next time, rap elsewhere.

Oct 31, 2015

Hawk

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Lead P2 (money pitch); single rope, so much drag over 3 corners! But awesome! A must do for sure. Great traverse, long, good pro. Very fun!

Oct 18, 2015

Immaculate Virgin

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Lead P1, very fun, pulling the roof is good, but the creaky flake is now a no-touch flake (totally seperated). Minimal pro after roof, built anchor on ledge instead of sling anchor on boulder. Good choice.

Oct 18, 2015

Immaculate Virgin

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

First night lead! 2nd rope got stuck pulling it after rapel, had to relead it to get the rope; stuck at the very top of P1. Lead it even faster and with better pro (though less of it) then the first time hours earlier. Very fun indeed.

Oct 18, 2015

Arrow

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

First 5.8 sent clean! Led P2, 3 cruxes; pulling roof to stance, fun, but hard (T-rex arms), P2 reachy slab, P3, I go right! Took ~25min to figure out, but man, it was awesome to pull it!

Oct 11, 2015

Bombs Away Dream Baby

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

P1/2 ran together, meh. P3, dear god, what a roof. last pro 1ft below roof, then have to pull. Again, T-rex arms make really hard, worked it for 10-15min, getting really pumped, but no take. Then, boom, commitment and up! Even the slab afterwards was fun

Oct 11, 2015

Rusty Trifle

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

P1 was good fun, traversed in the wrong place I think; first half good pro, second half no pro, and lots of smeared feet. Did P2, good fun, easy warm up. Dan lead P3.

Sep 19, 2015

Herdie Gerdie

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

First 5.8 and FIRST TRAD LEAD FALL! Onto my smallest cam too! That tiny blue totem basic was bomber at the crux. Fun, hard as hell climb, but damnit, I'm in the 8's now! Will be back to get clean.

Sep 19, 2015

Gorilla My Dreams

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Led P3- now that is a fantastic roof, one of the most fun in the Gunks. Easy to protect, threw in two cams cause why not (picked wrong size first), put bomber in next to it.

Sep 12, 2015

Sleepwalk

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Great single pitch lead! Fun face to the arete, then more up. Figuring out how to finish the face was good fun indeed. Very fun.

Sep 6, 2015

In The Groove

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Very fun two pitches. Good corner and roof climbing on first pitch. Second pitch has another fun roof. Did the direct finish to the top, more fun, and better anchor to rappel.

Sep 6, 2015

Ent Line

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

This was great to do on top rope. Flag out the left foot at the crux, and I was in business. Used the Sleepwalk/Ant's line bolts to build this TR anchor.

Sep 6, 2015

Hans' Puss

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

2 pitches. P1 rocks, talk about a crazy fun traverse! Got shut down on P2; half way through, couldn't move up much past the pin. Had to bail. Back climbed ~40 of scared. Will do again!

Aug 22, 2015

Easy Verschneidung (Easy V)

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

P1 good fun indeed. Took forever to find P3 while walking on P2 (dumb on my part). P3 rocked. Harder than it looked, but good fun indeed.

Aug 22, 2015

Middle Earth

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

P1 was good fun, cracks and face. P3 was one of my scariest leads. To crux no problem, almost blew crux. Backclimb, collect self, then pull it, again, almost blew it. Did a 3 fingerpad grip single arm pullup to get up it! Intense, must repeat better.

Aug 22, 2015

Labatt-Ami

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Beer Walls

Amazing lead! Ledges were scary; lots of manteling and rock humping. Pulling the roof/crack was fantastic and crazy fun. Figuring it out, just golden. First warmup on a 5.7.

Jul 12, 2015

The Diagonal

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (7 p) 

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Wallface

First Alpine climb! Led P1-P3, P1 fun, but overshot ending, P2 did all on wrong route, much harder than 5.5, but awesome climb. P3 fun classic. P4-7 amazing, hard, scary, great! Route finding hardest part!

Jul 11, 2015

Ursula

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Led P1, beautiful climb. Call this one a 5.5 climb with two or three 5.7 moves in the crux. Good to protection, great, fun climb.

Jun 14, 2015

Maria

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

P1, meh. P2, still great. Finally led P3-AMAZING roof. Pulling that is scary and awsome, and a DO NOT MISS climb!

Jun 7, 2015

Gorilla My Dreams

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

P1 crappy-wet, muddy, bit nerve racking to protect. Really cool anchor though (hole in rock, back up with cam for sure). P2 great, solid, fun mixed climb. Good pro, good moves, good fun. P3 roof Dan lead, really great exposed crux, climb deserves love

Jun 7, 2015

Frog's Head

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Led second pitch, good fun, but wasn't in the right mind to truly enjoy, will repeat and lead first pitch too.

May 30, 2015

Maria

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Led second pitch; awesome! This is a true classic. Lots of figuring it out. Will be back for sure to lead first and third pitches (third is amazing!).

May 30, 2015

Bunny

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (1 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Nicole's first real climb in the Gunks. She even lead belayed me. And she rocked it; did the 5.4 variation to the tree. Lots of fun.

May 25, 2015

Minty

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Fun climb, great gear for bringing up Gunks newbies on a multi pitch, fun

May 23, 2015

Alley Oop

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

First purposeful 5.7 in the Gunks! Awesome mix of everything-technical face for the start (crux), great laybacks for the middle, and fun roof/corner to finish. Just rap from the chains, second pitch is meh, crap ledge at the top. Awesome, scary climb.

May 23, 2015

Rad Trad

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 (1 p) 

CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : 9 Wall (Feather Ledges)

Fun lead, great for tricams! Good warm up; good fun. Go left near the top, run out, but easy there.

May 17, 2015

P&H

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

First take on my own gear (thank you FON). Great, hard hard crux, top is slopey (hency take) past crux. Second cliff to rings not too bad. Fun, hard climb.

May 17, 2015

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (3 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

First pitch warm up; combined P2/P3--epic climbing. Most fun 5.6 at the Gunks! Long, sustained, and awesome!

Apr 28, 2015

Sixish

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

P1 belay ledge is crap, back up anchor with gear! P2 fun, basic Gunks slab. P3 I thought travese was easy, good pro; pulling the notch was my crux; first solid arm bar, really cool move.

Apr 28, 2015

Arch

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (2 p) 

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

P1 sketch to protect; too busy being stressed to enjoy; all the in arch climbing a bit nerve racking. Bomber cam in roof to pull out of arch. Used intermediate belay at pine tree. After, all fun to GT ledge.

Apr 28, 2015

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