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Member Since: Nov 23, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 6, 2016
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Point Rank: # 11,095
Total Points: 35

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has OReid been climbing?


All 71 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts 49 | Stars 5 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments


Location: Washington > Central-East Cascades, Wena... > Stuart-Enchantments > Prusik Peak > South Face Beckey-Davis Rou... (5.9)
By: OReid When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route (as we climbed it)! Start in the left trending crack just left of the chimney (stiff 5.8, bring a #4), then you can either join the regular route or follow our variation: proceed straight up above the chimney along various crack systems (5.7-5.8) to reach the ledge system at mid-height. This variation keeps the whole climb at a consistently steep, clean and awesome mid 5th class grade. And yes, do the splitter summit pitch; either aid or free, it's a beauty.

The main climb go... more >>

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Quandary Peak/Blue Lakes > McCullough Gulch > Claim Jumper (WI3 M3)
By: OReid When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Fun solid climbing.

As of yesterday, 10/7/2013, there were three nice long pitches of climbing (550') with plenty of ice. The protection was quite good but sometimes a bit tricky. Bring a few pins. The descent gully was iced up enough that we opted to do one rappel and a pitch of belayed down climbing. Perhaps overly cautious, but I think warranted given the incredible amount of loose rock.

Also, while I don't recommend trespassing, we met Walter, the guy who works the small famil... more >>

Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Waddington Range > Mount Waddington (4,019m) > Bravo Glacier (5.7 AI3 M3+)
By: OReid When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: Not sure how a 7500' high route can get a "grade III", when every bit of elevation gain is technical to some degree. The Waddington Guide gives it TD- for good reason. It has been completed in a single push, but not by mere mortals. Grade V at least.

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > The Pages Wall Area > Osiris (5.7+)
By: OReid When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: Great climb! You can easily link the 1st and 2nd, and the 3rd and 4th pitches, making it to the top in three full rope lengths. We didn't experience any rope-drag issues with doing it this way. A #4 Camalot is useful but not required. I felt that this climb was more 5.8 than 5.7, but that could be a matter of route finding, which isn't obvious. It seemed that there could be several variations to each pitch.

Location: Washington > Northwest Region > North Cascades
By: OReid When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: The North Cascades are composed of a wide variety of rock types, but primarily Skagit gneiss, not granite. The rock tends to be crumbly, but there are pockets of good firm climbing. Forbidden Peak, Gunsight Mountain, Dome Peak, and Goode Mountain come to mind as being particularly solid. As the pictures above indicate, it is not the rock quality, but the glaciation and alpine ambiance that make this range unique in the lower 48!

Location: Washington > Northwest Region > North Cascades > Mt Triumph > NE Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: OReid When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: The above description is for the NE ridge, NOT the NW ridge. As of 2008 glacial recession obviates the need for any glacier travel gear other than ice axe and crampons (depending on snow conditions). The route can be simul-climbed in it's entirety with a light rack and a doubled half-rope. Two ropes recommended for the descent as the intermediate (30 m) rap anchors are sketch. Descent of the NE ridge will easily take as long or longer than the ascent.

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