REI Community
search


Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Optimistic

Point Rank: # 2,250
Total Points: 282

0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Optimistic been climbing?










Contributions


All 1314 | Routes 17 | Areas 6 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 45 | Posts 1198 | Stars 35 | Ratings 4
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Yenta (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Jul 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Hmm. Well, given that it's rated 10 b/c in the Williams guide, and I thought it was 10, I think that an alternative explanation for your experience is possible.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Jun 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The hangers and chains have been removed from the bolts at the top of the 3rd pitch. The fixed anchor has been removed from the big pine on the GT.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Unknown aka Ken and the Art... (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: May 23, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the update, edited the name. FWIW the Gunks Appers called it 10c, so I guess there's a range of grade impressions on this route.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 29, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I think it's pretty reasonable to call the traverse on p2 R-rated. You're probably 12 feet from your last piece by the time you finish stepping around the corner, and the rock all along the traverse (ie the rock keeping your small to medium wires in place) is pretty fragile looking. Great route though!

One thought,if you think your second is going to have trouble or need coaching, various belays can be set just beyond the traverse. Just be sure that the ... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Optimistic When: Apr 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The top of that block is such a cool spot. It's like a little secret world up there!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (c) Left of the Roof : Flexercise (5.10b) : Photo
By: Optimistic When: Feb 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very cool picture, really draws you into the action. Great colors too.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: We really enjoyed this route, with the exception of the loose/hollow stuff on p2 and the descent. Great climbing in a wide range of styles.

We found the #5 very helpful, perhaps even more on p3 than p4. As someone noted above if I had to pick one between the #4 and the #5 I'd bring the 5 and skip the 4.

We really didn't enjoy the descent too much, the rope got stuck 4 times including twice on the first rap. If I do this again I&#... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Tequila Mockingbird (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This was an interesting route..."a bit of an adventure" was how a guide friend of mine described it...but as others have said this is not a good route for a fledgling leader. The first pitch has a couple of spots down low where you are most definitely in the no-fall zone, some loose rock, and some of the available protection is fiddly and maybe not totally bomber. Higher on p1 it is better to just not protect the right-facing corner and step left onto the face lea... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Unknown aka Ken and the Art... (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Jun 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Glad you enjoyed it Mike! I'll have to hop on it again and see if it seems easier now. Of course Junior, over by Laurel, is "5.9+" so that would put this route in good company. I've still never ever seen anybody on this route, which is funny because the 800 people per day toproping Ken's are in a better position to do this than they are to do Ken's...


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Soul Fire (5.11-)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I had 8 red camalots. I pushed each one a ways and back cleaned one after I fell and placed that higher. So when people say "bring a lot of reds" they're not kidding! I didn't find the #3 mentioned above to be useful, although maybe I would have if I didn't have all those #1's. You need some 0.75 or similar for the top.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Keyhole Flake (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I took a hang on a cam about 1/3 of the way up the initial flake, and it shifted a little when I did,but held my weight. Then I unweighted the cam to start climbing again, and when I did the whole flake moved. The flake, about 20 feet tall, is completely detached aside from a triangular base about 2 feet on a side. All your pro and holds depend on that flake until you get to the blue camalot section.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Mr. Peanut (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good route, but for me there were many spots where purple c4s wouldn't fit, particularly above the roof. 3 or 4 purple, 4 0.4,1 0.75 and one #5 is what I'll take next time. We had fun trying to eliminate the wide crack and just use fingers and ratchets, tough!

As several have said, the 10+/11 rating is for p2, p1 is 9+/10-.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Sep 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wonderful route, particularly the very long and varied second pitch. Agree with the above comments about big gear not being needed. The biggest piece I used on the wide pitch was a green Camalot. Plenty of gear inside the crack. Wires extremely useful here, as with everything else we climbed at Lumpy.

As far as we could see, the second rap anchor on the west descent had been chopped (2 little shreds of webbing visible), and we replaced that. No offense intended if an accident occurred here or i... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Trifle (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Overall kind of a strange climb, a bit dirty and wandering, but an engaging adventure. Did the p1 traverse in a downpour which was cool.

Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Immaculate Virgin (5.6 PG13)
By: Optimistic When: Jun 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.

It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to prot... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Really cool route but surprisingly short! As others have said it's really important to protect the second as they do the final move onto the summit, using something in the red C3 kind of size. It would not be at all good if your second took that swing.

I think some of the comments about the mantel are a little extreme. You can get several quite good cams which will be at your feet for the move. I think 7 is pretty fair.

People are quite right about needing a tiny rack. A long piece of cord i... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: As of March 16th, 2015 the lower of the two anchor bolts on the southwest summit can be turned a bit in its hole. I didn't try to pull it out. Unfortunately I didn't have the knowledge or equipment to address this.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: As of March 2015 we were not able to get a "standard" clearance rental car (Passat) more than a short distance from the road via either the Meat Walls side or the Wall side. Plan on walking a fair ways if that happens to you. Still looks like a pretty solid approach even if you get your vehicle all the way to the end of either road. Cool wall, though, numerous moderates, a lot of solitude and nearly all day shade.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Farm Boy (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Blue camalots useful on this route, one for initial roof and 2 or 3 up in the upper corner. Interesting climbing, good offwidth/fist puzzle at the start, kind of old school 9.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Dr. Carl (5.10-)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: We were well stocked on gear 0.75 and below, and as a result sewed it up with nothing bigger than that. I thought this route was pretty solid 10 (but I suck at stemming). Quality route.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route ... (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If you don't have a big stack of #3's, there are a few places in the middle of the pitch where some #2's will work. I found the 3.5 I had to be a bit of a pain, only a few very specific places it would go.

Soft for the grade.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Unknown (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: For p1 we found blue camalots really useful, three at least, plus a 4 camalot for the pod. Nice route.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Chocolate Corner (5.9+)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If this one is a challenging grade for you, I think you'll be psyched to have at least one more #1 and #2 than the suggested rack above. I know I would have been!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Unknown aka Ken and the Art... (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Phoebe is about 20-25 feet right of Ken's, about 6 feet left of Boston, and has a bolt about 12 feet up. "Unknown" is not Phoebe.

Ken's as you know diagonals left to right as it ascends. If you drop a rope from the top of the cliff where Ken's tops out, allowing the rope to drop straight down, it'll be directly over this route and quite a ways from Phoebe, which I have done several times and which we had completed just before setting Ken's and "discovering" this route.

I kind of wanted to ... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ha, yes Dana, you know I do carry a passel of small cams! But I must not have tried hard enough in the right spot...that crack seemed too shallow. I'll go back and have another go at it, some good gear there would have completely changed the game. Thanks, David.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About