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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 2,314
Total Points: 328
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1168 | Routes 17 | Areas 6 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 39 | Posts 1060 | Stars 35 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: We really enjoyed this route, with the exception of the loose/hollow stuff on p2 and the descent. Great climbing in a wide range of styles.

We found the #5 very helpful, perhaps even more on p3 than p4. As someone noted above if I had to pick one between the #4 and the #5 I'd bring the 5 and skip the 4.

We really didn't enjoy the descent too much, the rope got stuck 4 times including twice on the first rap. If I do this again I&#... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Tequila Mockingbird (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: This was an interesting route..."a bit of an adventure" was how a guide friend of mine described it...but as others have said this is not a good route for a fledgling leader. The first pitch has a couple of spots down low where you are most definitely in the no-fall zone, some loose rock, and some of the available protection is fiddly and maybe not totally bomber. Higher on p1 it is better to just not protect the right-facing corner and step left onto the face lea... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed it Mike! I'll have to hop on it again and see if it seems easier now. Of course Junior, over by Laurel, is "5.9+" so that would put this route in good company. I've still never ever seen anybody on this route, which is funny because the 800 people per day toproping Ken's are in a better position to do this than they are to do Ken's...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Soul Fire (5.11-)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: I had 8 red camalots. I pushed each one a ways and back cleaned one after I fell and placed that higher. So when people say "bring a lot of reds" they're not kidding! I didn't find the #3 mentioned above to be useful, although maybe I would have if I didn't have all those #1's. You need some 0.75 or similar for the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Keyhole Flake (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: I took a hang on a cam about 1/3 of the way up the initial flake, and it shifted a little when I did,but held my weight. Then I unweighted the cam to start climbing again, and when I did the whole flake moved. The flake, about 20 feet tall, is completely detached aside from a triangular base about 2 feet on a side. All your pro and holds depend on that flake until you get to the blue camalot section.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Mr. Peanut (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Good route, but for me there were many spots where purple c4s wouldn't fit, particularly above the roof. 3 or 4 purple, 4 0.4,1 0.75 and one #5 is what I'll take next time. We had fun trying to eliminate the wide crack and just use fingers and ratchets, tough!

As several have said, the 10+/11 rating is for p2, p1 is 9+/10-.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Sep 4, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful route, particularly the very long and varied second pitch. Agree with the above comments about big gear not being needed. The biggest piece I used on the wide pitch was a green Camalot. Plenty of gear inside the crack. Wires extremely useful here, as with everything else we climbed at Lumpy.

As far as we could see, the second rap anchor on the west descent had been chopped (2 little shreds of webbing visible), and we replaced that. No offense intended if an accident occurred here or i... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Trifle (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Overall kind of a strange climb, a bit dirty and wandering, but an engaging adventure. Did the p1 traverse in a downpour which was cool.

Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Immaculate Virgin (5.6 PG13)
By: Optimistic When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.

It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to prot... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: Really cool route but surprisingly short! As others have said it's really important to protect the second as they do the final move onto the summit, using something in the red C3 kind of size. It would not be at all good if your second took that swing.

I think some of the comments about the mantel are a little extreme. You can get several quite good cams which will be at your feet for the move. I think 7 is pretty fair.

People are quite right about needing a tiny rack. A long piece of cord i... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: As of March 16th, 2015 the lower of the two anchor bolts on the southwest summit can be turned a bit in its hole. I didn't try to pull it out. Unfortunately I didn't have the knowledge or equipment to address this.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: As of March 2015 we were not able to get a "standard" clearance rental car (Passat) more than a short distance from the road via either the Meat Walls side or the Wall side. Plan on walking a fair ways if that happens to you. Still looks like a pretty solid approach even if you get your vehicle all the way to the end of either road. Cool wall, though, numerous moderates, a lot of solitude and nearly all day shade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Farm Boy (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: Blue camalots useful on this route, one for initial roof and 2 or 3 up in the upper corner. Interesting climbing, good offwidth/fist puzzle at the start, kind of old school 9.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Dr. Carl (5.10-)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: We were well stocked on gear 0.75 and below, and as a result sewed it up with nothing bigger than that. I thought this route was pretty solid 10 (but I suck at stemming). Quality route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route ... (5.10)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: If you don't have a big stack of #3's, there are a few places in the middle of the pitch where some #2's will work. I found the 3.5 I had to be a bit of a pain, only a few very specific places it would go.

Soft for the grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Unknown (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: For p1 we found blue camalots really useful, three at least, plus a 4 camalot for the pod. Nice route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Chocolate Corner (5.9+)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: If this one is a challenging grade for you, I think you'll be psyched to have at least one more #1 and #2 than the suggested rack above. I know I would have been!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Phoebe is about 20-25 feet right of Ken's, about 6 feet left of Boston, and has a bolt about 12 feet up. "Unknown" is not Phoebe.

Ken's as you know diagonals left to right as it ascends. If you drop a rope from the top of the cliff where Ken's tops out, allowing the rope to drop straight down, it'll be directly over this route and quite a ways from Phoebe, which I have done several times and which we had completed just before setting Ken's and "discovering" this route.

I kind of wanted to ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: Ha, yes Dana, you know I do carry a passel of small cams! But I must not have tried hard enough in the right spot...that crack seemed too shallow. I'll go back and have another go at it, some good gear there would have completely changed the game. Thanks, David.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Bit of an epic on this one for me!
- First pitch I found to be fairly easy but quite run out, and the climbing very much not worth the risk. I'll use the Red Pillar start next time.
- Williams gives p2 5.9G, but I wasn't able to get gear within about 10 feet of the crux move and so decided to back off after trying to climb through 6 or 7 times. The fall looked pretty safe, but longer than I liked. Have to come back for a rematch on that one!
- Wish I'd seen kswissto's comments on the 3rd pitc... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: A little (actually a lot of) gear beta:
-there are a couple of funny little pods in the crack toward the bottom of the first pitch. I found smallish hybrid mastercams handy there, and a pink or black tricam would probably work too. I mention this because either way this is not gear that everyone carries all the time...

-there is a nice red/yellow camalot placement just as you're pulling through the little p1 overlap into the base of the left-facing corner. You have to stop in the middle of ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : High Plains Drifter (5.10 R)
By: Optimistic When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: We really enjoyed what we think is this route, and what we did seemed to line up pretty well with the picture in the new Williams guide, but does not line up at all with what is written above. Who knows? Millbrook is an adventure!

We started (intentionally) on White Rose, probably about 20' right of the huge right-facing corner that houses White Rose and White Corner and slowly trending left toward the corner over little overhangs with some occasional loose rock and bird poop. Crux came abou... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: P3 is really quite cool. I have to say that I think 5.6 is pretty fair, but I did notice (BETA ALERT) that it was a little tricky to get good gear where you wanted it, because the good gear is actually right in the middle of the crux. I chose to pull on through and then was like, "hmm, now I'm kind of looking at a ledge fall, not quite what I'd had in mind," and so placed a piece blind at my feet. Amazingly, my second told ... more >>


Location: Training : Hangboard Workouts for Clim...
By: Optimistic When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: 1) Probably obvious, but an easy bouldering session at the gym would be perhaps the ideal warmup.
2) Beastmaker offers a superb and free hangboard timer app for smartphones. With it you can program in a number of reps, hang time and rest time for each rep on the hangboard, and then a rest interval between sets. Plus annoying beeping (mutable if you want) to keep the pressure on!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Moondance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: We really liked this one. Good gear is abundant throughout, this would be a nice early trad lead for someone (although not their first lead, I'd say).

I wouldn't agree that there is a lot of loose rock. However, there most certainly are a couple of very good-sized blocks right above the ledge with the tree. These are obvious and easy to tiptoe around. The rest of the rock is perfect...although I'll admit there's a decent amount of lichen on both this route and Sundance. That's the price of... more >>


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